Never thought I’d say this, but HORI finally did what other companies should have done (for once …) : implement a screw-in optical board, not a wobbly, flimsy add-on .
It would have been even better with washers to protect from overenthusiastic screwing but honestly who’s going to fiddle with it other than to replace it say after a cople of years when the IR leds die.
Would they sell replacement optical boards to replace the dead ones?
The trimpot from the Spark CE to adjust sensitivity and the multi voltage option from the Gamerfinger could have been added too, it wouldn’t have cost HORI much more, considering the schematic , from the looks of it on the photo, is another basic unrefined clone of the standard “optical sensor” circuits seen on the joystick market with no additional circuitry (no compensation, nothing).
A big solid good point for the praticality (finally !), but a bad point for the high price put on an age old sensor circuit that could have been improved…
Bought a used Hori RAP V5 Silent 2 weeks ago and all in all im very happy. 1 thing disturbs me a bit. The pre owner changed the original gate and build a Sanwa gate in. Problem is, it doesn’t fit perfectly. It is a little bit crooked so i decided to buy a new gate. I ordered some parts from Focus Attack and bought the Kowal Octopus which normally fits with the Hayabusa Sticks.
But as u can see, it doesn’t fit… My question:Which gate will fit and is it possible to build the Kowal in?
It’s my first Fightingstick and im trying to get the best performance.
I hope u guys can help me! Greetings!
Guys… the **silent hayabusa and normal hayabusa do NOT have the same main body **as opposed to what is said on this thread. It suffices to look at the pics:
the “silent” body clearly has a set of four plastic parts in its center to prevent the optical pcb from turning around, plus a set of 4 double plastic prongs to hold the outside edge of the said pcb, they apply equal pressure from the four corners of the pcb.
Also, there are additional 4 long prongs on the outside of the main body , somehow resembling the JLF in concept.
The presence of the counterclockwise central raised plastic parts and small prongs (for the infrared optical pcb) prevent use of microswitches by the way, unless all these protruding elements are removed, but even then the usual locating pins from the “regular” hayabusa main body (to hold the microswitches in place) are not present on the “silent” hayabusa body.
There are also 4 additional holes for the pcb to be screwed (not present on the regular hayabusa).
I guess the set of screws, center parts and pcb securing prongs are all there to fix as precisely and tightly as possible the pcb to prevent wrong inputs due to wobbling, vibrations etc
I’d even add the outline of the silent body is also completely different and has not a boxed/walled design as opposed to the regular version.
The funny thing is: Hori had a good idea to secure so well the pcb, but according to some friends, the pcb seems still to have a few problems (similar in nature to all the other aftermarket “optical” pcb for JLF for example). One guy even told me it was a hit or miss with these pcb.
Also, this obsession with securing the pcb prevents any use of microswitches unless the body is irreversibly modified to do so. imho the silent looks like a proto released in haste.
I am going to take a normal Hayabusa and mod it so that I can fit a SparkCE optical PCB.
I just need to go buy a dremel at home depot later on today.
I saw some pictures in an old thread where someone did this but he chopped up parts of the SparkCE’s PCB to make it fit. I took a look at the Hayabusa and I’m just gonna chop/sand/cut 4 little edges off on the inside which should make it fit without having to potentially dmg the PCB. This way I can just fit any type of Optical PCB in there instead.
It’s pretty easy, just don’t rush it. The reason I didn’t mess with the 4 pillars was because I didn’t want to damage the integrity of the Hayabusa housing itself. I’m pretty sure skimming down the pillars won’t actually do anything bad to it in the long run, since you’d shave off a millimeter total. Don’t quote me on that.
My setup is still kicking ass, so I’m happy with my results.
Oh wow, you got all four screws. I was worried when I saw/opened a trace on one of the grooves. Yeah, I figured that dial part was probably going to be problematic, but a little shaving seems to work it looks like. How do you like it? It’s like butter for me. Some of my friends don’t like just how precise it is, but I love it!
I shaved a circle where the dial was sitting under the gate and it fits perfectly.
I made sure i didnt hit any traces and was able to get the 4 screws in easy.
I love the stick, 100% my fav now. I was using a JLF with the SparkCE with a .5 lbs spring to make it similar to a stock hayabusa but this beats that by a shitload. I’m gonna do this to my other SparkCE also.
Can’t thank you any harder haha, love the pics you posted.
