Dude, you’re killing me.
sorry if i ask too much questions
Questions are fine, you just don’t seem to catch the answers people give. You do not need new micro switches unless the ones you’ve got don’t work.
got it
But, to answer your question, you would just ditch the PCB and use loose switches. You have to change the wiring up since there will be no male 5-pin to connect to. You need a signal wire and ground to each switch. There are solutions out there that are pre-made for this type of modification.
I’ll keep that mind
I only go for 3lbs or heavier springs with heavy metal ball and bat tops or flight joysticks, as the stronger spring counters the heavy weight.
3lb should be enough but I can understand needing more with a Link and a heavy aluminum battop. Unfortunately, anything over 3lb seems to squeeze the lube off of the pivot bushing after a short while making it feel like it’s grinding a bit. I have only experienced this on JLF and Hayabusa. Hayabusa handled the added tension better though. The grooves on the bushing help to hold lubricant. I think this is what made the difference.
hayabusa. dead or alive??? I do have sanwa battop blue, I think i’ll try out 2lb to see how that goes with the 1mm gold actuator on the JLF joystick
Hori Hayabusa Joystick —> http://stores.horiusa.com/hayabusa-joy-stick/
It’s the joystick that comes in the Hori Fighting Edge.
whoops sorry
Hakuna Matata