No need for a new pcb yet, you can use the LB wire and connect it to the RT button and your problem will be fixed. Just make sure to remap the LB to heavy kick.
I dont know if this has been asked before, but reading through all those pages is a little tedious.
Yesterday I got an SE Stick for the 360 and I’d like to know if there’s a way to open the stick without voiding the warranty. I don’t think I got the problem because the stick doesn’t get stuck or anything, I’d just like to see the inside of the stick for myself and see if there’s a problem.
Any way you open it will result in void, plain and simple.
Wait, I’m confused. If the stock SE PCB gets scratched up to the point of not working, wouldn’t I be able to just buy a Sanwa JLF, and get it fixed working like new, because it comes with a PCB?
Yes, that is right.
What was confuse?
This is what confused me:
Why would there be a problem if the pcb is scratched, if he can just replace the stick to get it working again? Unless he’s talking about something else???
That is correct. replacing with a JLF should be fine.
I see there.
I don’t really understand what AimingWandersly typed either.
Laugh.
I think is saying replacing the Stick, as in the whole Mad Catz Street Fighter IV CE.
(It says Collector’s Edition on the box, but people call it SE; weird; what is standard?)
Replace by going to Mad Catz.
And the problem AimingWandersly referring to is that Warranty Voided when open, then going to Mad Catz with Void.
I think that is what AimingWandersly saying.
But yes, if Joystick PCB scratch to non-working, all is do to fix is replace whole Joystick.
Easy stuff.
Yeah I got confused as well. When people say stick, I assumed it was JUST the stick portion. I didn’t know that sticks came with the ball handle, the mount, and its own PCB. I thought that the PCB was like this precious, very expensive to replace thing.
sorry about the confusion, my bad. all i meant is to replace the ‘joystick’ but i can totally see how stick can get confusing since it can refer to the entire thing.
opening it and breaking the sticker= warranty void. but you guys are right, the washer problem was scratching the joystick assembly PCB which can be completely remedied by replacing it with a sanwa/seimitsu, etc.
Oh, so that was what you meant?
Laugh.
Then what I thought was completely out. 
Yes, for me, I use Stick to mean the whole unit, and Joystick to mean just that.
But what is the “bigger problem” you saying if Joystick PCB scratch and Mad Catz Street Fighter IV CE being opened?
Because super certain that all is fix when Joystick replace.
And you know that too.
Just curious what is this problem you talk of.
Problem as in getting RMA from Mad Catz because of Warranty Void?
yup. hard to return it if you’ve already opened it up. but, like everyone else said when i made my confusing comment :bgrin:, probably the worst problem you are going to have is with the original ‘joystick’.
don’t know about any other real problems with the fight stick.
oh, and is it the CE or the SE? I too am confused over that…
edit: i think i just wrote my first post way too quickly and didn’t read it properly. my apologies to anyone it confused.
Well I call it CE because it says “Collector’s Edition” on the box.
But everyone just calls it SE.
I guess having non-Sanwa parts makes it a standard thing.
Officially, the product is Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick?.
But if I just type that alone, people would probably ask me, "Which Mad Catz? The SE or TE?"
Laugh.
So I just use CE.
that’s what i mean. i say SE because people seem to pick up on the ‘standard’ vs ‘TE’ terminology. but whatevs. i have the ‘crappier one’ that needs the modding :bgrin:.
jdm and Aiming, thanks for the help. Definitely puts me more at ease and more willing to mod.
I’m just going to ignore the washer problem since I’m going to order a replacement stick and some buttons soon. And when they come, I’ll just put in the brand new parts =D
your welcome man, though i don’t know how much i helped:rolleyes:.
but that’s actually the reason i picked the FightStick (non-TE edition).
i liked the idea of picking my upgrade parts (and actually spending less than the TE cost total). and it’s a fun way to get into modding without committing yourself to soldering right off the bat. i love my stick, joystick, whatever and can’t wait to throw in some sanwa parts that i have on order from Aki store.
Yeah I just don’t have the time to solder and it makes me nervous to think that I might mess something up.
I think I’m going to order that JLF stick from LizardLick that is ready to put into the SE. I’m just damn happy that it comes with its own PCB. =D
I definitely wasn’t too keen on the fact that I would have had to open my stock stick up and glue that washer down.
so what is the verdict when it comes to a SE that has buttons that sometimes respond flawlessly for a minute or so, but then stop responding all together?
i just bought my SE (360) from gamestop less than 3 hours ago, and my a and b buttons (lk and mk) sometimes work and sometimes don’t.
at first i thought my b button was entirely dead because i was unable to navigate the xbox menu
should i just send it back to madcatz and not void the warranty?
My jab button stopped working after less than 2 hours of me getting it. I opened it up but I can’t seem to find what the problem is. When I press on it, it doesn’t feel “clicky” it feels “squishy”, if that makes any sense. What do you guys think is the problem?
[edit]
For the people that want to open it but don’t want to void the warranty I’d suggest calling Madcatz. The guy that I called said that I was allowed to open it (after giving him my info) and if I wasn’t able to fix it I could still send it. I asked him “so that mean I’m able to open it up without voiding my warranty?” he replied “that’s right”. He also sent me an email explaining how to clean the parts.