Seimitsu PS-15 has a required activation force of approx 85g
They are the short barrel/body snap-ins great for sticks with very little internal clearance.
I don’t have PS-14-K or PS-14-G buttons so I can’t compare them too PS-14-KN or PS-14-GN buttons.
The ones I use and prefer are the PS-14 G. The button itself is flat and with the ring around the button also being flat. PS-15 and sanwa buttons are not flat but slightly rounded and so are the bezel rings around the button. The PS-14 G and PS-14 GN are different in look and feel. The PS-15 is the the snap in version of the PS-14 GN.
I should try those someday on a super-slim custom case.
I have PS-14-Ks around (no PS-14-Gs), but I have no readily available supply of American nickels for easy 5g measurements. 
I’m mostly prefer screw-ins in my builds anyways.
I’m a seimitsu fan, and i had memories of playing on the best seimitsu buttons on a neogeo candy cabinet back in my youth. after much research, it turns out they were PS-14-GX’s, sadly these buttons were discontinued and can only be found these days on the ultra rare HRAP1 SE.
nowadays, im a big fan of sanwa’s OBSF-30 RG buttons. Which have similar reed based swtiches found in GX’s. I dont have the numerical data at hand (check kowal’s site lol) but personally fixes all the issue have with standard sanwa buttons.
They have a little bit more resistance, but not as stiff as Seimitsu’s (PS-14-GN is the best comparison i’d say). The activation point is lower, so there is less likely for mistimed multiple button inputs (P+K+G’s tend to be more consistent in VF!) and less room for accidental inputs. As a shmup player, it also allows for more comfortable manual button rapid tapping because of that. For fighting games, I can get better Tech.Guards in VampireSavior, and you can be a bit more sloppy when it comes to Piano-ing (Honda hands/Chun kicks).
The build quality also feels a bit different, mainly due to the microswitches i would say, but the plunger doesn’t feel as sloppy and loose than standard OBSF’s, from my observation. It also helps in its favor that the RG micros have a higher usage rating, after much abuse it still feels good. imo.
I know many people might not give RG buttons a chance due to the price point (600yen a piece!) and availability, but, i encourage everyone to try them out. For tactile things like buttons, its hard to describe with words how different it is to standard OBSF-30’s, but ones you try them out, it’s pretty noticeable.
I generally prefer Seimitsu buttons if RG’s arent an option. I have PS-14-GN/KN’s in most of my sticks. OBSF-30’s in some. RG’s in sticks I use regularly.
but at the end of the day, just as long as they are consistent and don’t crap out i’m good. (i still dont like happ concave’s though), thankfully both sanwa and seimitsu are quality stuff.
Seimitsu transparent screw in. That’s all I have to say. Sanwa doesn’t have screw in transparent buttons so I don’t have a choice really. PS-14-G switches are also way, waaaay nicer than PS-14-D and Sanwa SW-68. However, I’ve Cherry modded my Seimitsu to clickity clackity D44x switches, which feel much nicer.
As for actual sticks? JLF sucks. Hate the thing with a passion, huge throw, huge engage, stupidly loose for no real reason, ridiculously difficult and fragile gate removal, yet the one saving grace of the stick is the pivot. The pivot is godly, and that’s about all the JLF has going for it.
Seimitsu sticks are better for the most part. Better measurements for engages and throws, easier to take a part and maintain, but the pivots on most models suck ass. The LS-40 has a godly pivot but a shaft that is too short by about 2 or 3 mm.
I can’t wait to get my Hori Hayabusa. It looks to have the best of both worlds, and I’m hoping to find a new favorite stick.
Isn’t this whole Sanwa or Seimitsu topic covered in various stickied posts and archived threads?
Like @Moonchilde said, Seimitsu is the best way to go for transparent buttons because they’re the only manufacturer that offers screw-in in clears. Transparent plastics are just too brittle for snap-in tabs. PS-14-G switches (big Seimitsu switches) really do feel great. Also, in my experience, GN and KN buttons are the best for silencing (with Kahunas). I’m not sure if it would be the same for K but G buttons have a unique design that makes them feel a bit mushy even with Little Kahuna’s. Even so, I have an HRAP N3 with PS-14-G buttons and Little Kahuna’s and they seem to be more quiet than any other button that I have silenced. The “mushy” feeling can be adjusted to.
Like 65 million times… Last year
These threads are like Jason Vorhees. No matter how many times you shoot them, stab them, burn them, or cut them up into little pieces and send them to hell…they keep coming back looking for naked teens to brutally murder.
On the other hand, it’s nice to see how people’s thoughts change over the new threads. People think up new ways to use these buttons and these threads are a good place to say “X is good because I can do this to it, while Y is ok but you can’t”
I wan to try these OBSF-30 RG buttons now but have one question. How deep does the case have to be to install these? The switches on these buttons seems longer so I want to know what depth I can get away with when installing them is some cases.
on a madcatz TE, you would need to bent the qcd prongs to give way, but it still fits after than. on HRAP’s… lol there’s so much room so its not an issue. 
same for SE/BRawlstick
Hmmm. I wanna give Sanwa RGs a shot now.
Unfortunately, my Modular stick is pretty slim, I’m not sure I can fit them in there.
I might have a TvC shell sitting around; let’s see if it can be repurposed and let’s see if I can hunt some of these buttons down.
this should be a good reference for clearance size
I dont think the Sanwa RGs will fit in my tek-case lol.
What buttons the Sanwa RG switches can install inside of?
without modding: only Sanwa RG’s atm.
mainly due to one thing, the actuator is square/cubed, compared to flat on most switches… so the plastic molding in the plunger will be different.
with modding: easiest would be Seimitsu (14-G/GN/KN) since the microswitch hole size would be fairly the same, so the switches fit right in, but then there’s the actuator shape… what erwin’s blog did is the most ideal way i guess, but you’d need a Sanwa RG button to begin with, which might defeat the purpose. http://erwin1.blog64.fc2.com/blog-entry-7.html and the seimitsu mod here: http://erwin1.blog64.fc2.com/blog-entry-1.html
Seimitsu buttons that take large switches can use RG switches according to slagcoin. Makes the button press about 9mm deeper. Both the switch and the plungers are female so the caps dont hold in position. They can turn about 2mm. Not ideal if you have art in the button but you could probably do some kind of mod to make them stay put.
Oh yeah, I remember this mod now.
I’m sure that we are more creative that that, right? There has to be something else you can use to center the cap and contact the switch. You can do the mod without that piece but it makes the button press deeper. To make it feel stock in button press depth it would take some trial and error to get the length of that piece right for the Seimitsu button. I suppose you could measure it to around 9mm but I’m not sure how long that piece is on the RG button. @hibachifinal - Can you maybe give us some idea (in mm preferably) how long the male part of the plunger that contacts the switch is on the RG from the inside? Can you tell us the width of the female on the switch itself?