You did well my son.
Seimitsu PS-14-G should fit right?
(1.28" / 32.5mm installation depth)
The panel I had, the button holes are slightly to small and have to be filed to be larger
From a width perspectiveāyesāthey need to be filed (or in my case, Dremeled) to 30mm. The buttons installed in this stick from the factory are the same as the Agetec stick for Dreamcastāwhich are 28mm in diameter. As far as depth is concerned, they should fit, as I shoehorned in Sanwa OBSF-30s into my HSS-0136āwhich are taller than PS-14-Gās. Just know that you might need to bend connector tabs (I did) to get everything to fit.
Hmm, I could do that.
Just trying to decide on colours myself (I picked up a junker HSS-0136 on eBay, should be here next week).
I might just get another in the future just for the PCB inside.
OK so before I order an LS-40-01 for this, help me confirm this is correct:
@jopamo 's mounting shows 25mm of JLF shaft above the plate, therefore total space beneath is (34+34-25) = 43mm.
LS-40-01 install depth is (35.8+4.8) = 40.6mm
So, it should fit no problem?
No promises. The only way to find out is to buy nā try.
Only joysticks that fit without modification are the LS-53,56,58 and 60
Iām glad you guys got this thread running. I got my hands on 2 HSS-0136, one complete but in need of whiting and a new CPO. The other which Iāve had for years on the back burner project list, just a case someone attempted to paint (horribly I might add), Iād like to bring both back to standard, the painted stickā¦I might just recreate the PS2/USB Black Virtua Stick since Iām gonna be painting the case no matter what after some sanding or peeling off the previous horrible paint job.
Iād really like to get my hands on the template if there is such. Iāve seen so many Virtua Stick adapted templates that there must be a standard VS template out there somewhere, otherwise Iāll just have to make it from scratch, I just did some Astro ātributeā CPO for HRAP so it shouldnāt be hard to work around it but stillā¦if anyone has any idea or sources please LMK. Thanks in advance.
Iām working on a re-pro template right now. Kids and work got it on the slow-mo mode though. Iāll post here when Iām done.
I saw your tutorial for the JLF mount while doing some searching for the VS template, great work! Might just follow suit, I also prefer the JLF over the LS series.
I might just get on a jumpstart on the template, maybe we can have a collaboration of sorts if youāre willing. Iāll post some mockup results here, if you have any advice or critique, Iād be very grateful.
Edit: Hereās what Iāve done so farā¦
PS: I know the sphere S is supposed to be blackā¦Iāll fix that later.
Edit: Credit where is due; The MCTE Virtua Stick template thatās being used lately was a tremendous help to get things started, so thanks to whoever made it. I also used the Astro CP for color matching.
Shiiit, SRK forums are closing!
Where are yāall going to post updates?
Iāll probably link Tumblr via Twitter:
https://twitter.com/Count_Kiki
We will make our own Tech Talk, with Black Jack and Hookers.
Oh sad news. Figures things close up as I come back after a long hiatus.
Ya know what, forget the tech talk and blackjack.
Small update (no pictures), I got my HSS-0136 
Itās very yellowed so I will do her up with vinyl dye (black or white, not 100% yet).
The PCB is (apparently) dead, and itās got the ASCII stick so I donāt feel bad about junking & modding.
Interestingly, my original buttons are using black Alps switches - will try to get a good picture for documentation at the weekend.
Skip vinyl dye or paint. Disassemble the case from the internals. Buy 40 Volume (12% Peroxide) Hair Developer Cream. Put on gloves and lightly brush on a thin layer. Do not cover (despite many resources online that indicate otherwiseāas it will cause botching). Put the cream covered case in direct sunlightāpreferably in a foil-lined box to ensure full light coverage. Re-coat every hour. The time spent in the sun will be representative of how much the case has yellowed (3-6 hours for light yellowing, 8-16 for significant yellowing).
It took only about 14 hours of sunlight to get this yellowed Saturnā¦
To look like thisā¦
Great job, looks amazing! Iāve also seen on youtube some whitening done with a peroxide/water submerged method that works very well, havenāt done it myself so Iām still dwelling which way to go for my Virtua stick case which is lightly yellowed, just waiting for the weather before I start experimenting.
I submerge too in clear developer. It requires getting a specially-sized container for parts as to not waste excess fluid to fully submerge them. Also, the fluid can only really be used for a day (which can get expensive), as the peroxide breaks down in the sun/air over time (even covered). Also note that peroxide-infused solution will be more dense than plastic, and therefore the plastic will float. Getting inventive on weighing down the part(s) becomes tedious (and can affect light exposure). The process also requires constant brushing-off of small air bubbles that form on the plastic surface while submerged (which may cause botching). If parts somehow wrestle themselves free of their weights, theyāll float and sit with portions of plastic not submerged. Translation?: more blotching.