^
korean arcade parts are incredibly cheap for such quality.
Yeah very low prices for such great stuff, but if you live in the US expect shipping to be as much as the stick itself :wtf:
Sure, for $70 for at least a very decent looking box, sounds pretty good to me plus the parts seem good enough
I love Korean Joysticks. I’m playing now for more than 1 year with a hard rubber Fanta and I love it so much.
It feels incredible and it’s definitely the best stick you can get for Tekken, especially if you’re a Mishima player.
I’m still playing with my modded Saulabi- SPS 1000 on PS2 and I think it’s a decent arcade stick. The only thing which bothers me, is the weight, it’s a bit too light if you ask me.
Does anybody have a Korean Tekken machine button layout. I’m going to build a custom Arcade stick this year and I want to have same layout.
I just got through modding my stick.pe.kr stick with the fake wood with Crown 203A buttons. It uses the same PCB as the PS3 Saulabi.
I gotta tell you, although bending the contacts to fit the PCB holes may be possible in theory it just ain’t gonna happen if you’re switching out all 10 buttons. I spent an hour trying to get all the holes to line up, tweaking contact angles here and there. But whatever I did, I just couldn’t get them all to go through the holes. It was a royal pain in the ass. So I ended up soldering the buttons to the PCB with wires.
Whatever button you get, the Crown 203A or 203C, you’ll end up using wires. Forget the bending-the-contact option for the 203A’s. Considering the risk of damage to the button and the time required to get things just right, it just isn’t a realistic option.
Crown 203A versus stock button comparison:
- Stiffer spring, prevents inadvertent inputs.
- Shorter “throw”.
- Activates sooner.
- The plastic feels more solid. It’s like comparing Legos to Megablocks.
- Much quieter. My wife was happy because the stock buttons were very hollow sounding and loud. The Crowns only let off a sharp click when you pressed them hard.
I agree about the weight thing. It’s all very light and might get airborne if you’re really into it. I’m thinking of ways to secure some lead weights to the interior of the box.
^
Saulabis are weighted down and made of plastic instead of fake wood so they are probably the better buy.
Evilsamurai: I agree. And the Saulabi’s come in a case with screw holes molded into the plastic, instead of particleboard panels that are stapled shut and where screws are screwed directly into the board. So the Saulabi would be better in the long run if you swap stuff out frequently. I can foresee getting to a point where the staples won’t hold or the screwholes for the stick will start to gouge the wood to the point where the stick will no longer stay screwed down if I swap things out too often. Fortunately, I have a Taeyoung and 10 Crown 203A’s in there, so hopefully there should be no reason to open the box again.
Takahashi, you said that you could not daisy chain the ground on the Saulabi PCB. Any reasons why this did not work that you could figure out? I soldered each button to its own ground, but if they can be daisy chained, then it would save people some time.
The Saulabi PCB may just not have a common ground. As for the Saulabi case, I do like it a lot better than wood. You don’t have to worry about stripping the screw holes or paint getting scratched off. If you don’t find it heavy enough, what I did is glue fishing weights inside. Glue one down in each corner and you will have a nicely weighed down stick.
I understand Sanwa buttons have tabs instead of wire leads that work with .110" quick disconnects. Are there quick disconnects that work well with the Crown 203A (or C) wire leads?
I don’t believe so, but what I did was solder female QDs to the leads on the buttons. You have to use a lot of solder though otherwise they will break off easily.
Sorry if this quote is terribly stupid or whatever, but is it possible to replace the PCB in a Saulabi with a PSX pad (Sony) PCB?
Of course and most people would recommend you do it anyway.
Ooh, I see, is there a foolproof guide to this somewhere to be found?
I was reading the thread,
are you sure the saulaubi stick comes with a myongshin fanta?
I’m pretty sure the wooden one on stick.pe.kr comes with a myongshin fanta and it is completely different from the saulabi. I’ve tried the taeyoung, myongshin, and the stock saulabi stick and the stock saulabi is my least liked.
It comes with a Myoungshin, just a lower quality one, ie. some parts differ. The last Saulabi I had for instance didn’t have Gersung switches and used a larger actuator to make up for the switches having a later activation point. The Saulabi I had before that had leaf switches.
Ok so I’m ready to mod my Saulabi. I have learned how to solder now and have the desoldering pump too. I learned how to remove the buttons from the PCB and I switched them around to leave the broken buttons to the far side and the working ones to the left.
I’m likeing the Crown 203 C’s and I hope to put in a TaeYoung Fanta , but my question is does the TaeYoung screw diredtly in without any mods ?
My other question is about useing wires. Since originaly the PCB "hangs from the buttons, When you use wires for the buttons, how are you holding the PCB down.
And since the soldering points are on the top of the PCB ( the side that you first see when you open it up ) do you have to have it inverted after the wires are connected or do you use long ass wires.
I’m choosing to use wires soldered on because when I heard about the bending of the contacts and saw how small they are and also looking at the holes on the PCB, I immediatly knew that Sambekzx was right on in his post on the difficulty of putting those in to the PCB and lining them up.
Are there different colors available for the TaeYoung Fanta sticks ?
And if Mr. Laugh doesn’t have the parts I would like to buy, where else can I put my order in.
Mr. Laugh if you see this I will contact you probably tommorow or the day after and I’m willing to PayPall you at once.
edit
How stupid of me to not think of just putting the wires through the holes and then solder. Disregard my question on inverting the PCB.
The Taeyoung screws in directly, no modding necessary. They come in red or green.
I must warn you, the Taeyoungs come HELLA DAMN STIFF. You’ll be using your arm muscles to play for the first two weeks. Then your hand/wrist for the next two weeks. It’s been almost a month and they still haven’t loosened up to the point where I can just flick my wrist or use my fingertips. I can’t wavedash in Tekken because of the stiffness right now. But I’m sticking with it cuz I hear they’re the best when the rubber is broken down completely.
As for the PCB, I used 22 gauge wire about 2 inches in length for each button. With 20 wires going to the PCB and 40 solder points, I found that the PCB didn’t need to be screwed down to anything. It was fine just free floating inside the case. I’m not sure how shock-proof this setup is, but I don’t abuse my sticks by dropping them or throwing them around.
EDIT: As for the Saulabi and the wooden stick.pe.kr sticks (made by the same company), they both have fanta and leaf switch versions. Play-asia only sells the leaf switch Saulabi, I believe. But if you order directly from stick.pe.kr, and order the fanta version of the Saulabi or wooden stick, you get a crappy Myoungshin.
THANK YOU SIR :tup:
Wow I never imagined it would be free floating. Any place I can put in my order other than Laugh ?
Unless you have other Korean contacts, Laugh is the only source I know, and the only one I would recommend. His price for a stick comes out to less than what you’d pay for a Sanwa from Lizardlick, even with shipping from Korea! Thankfully, parts prices in Korea are low enough to allow him to take his cut and still keep things affordable. I’m quite thankful that he’s willing to provide this service to us, and do it so competently.
P.S.: I have many relatives in Korea, and I still go through Laugh. Why? Not only would none of my relatives be able tell a Taeyoung from a Myoungshin, but 99.9% of the Korean population wouldn’t know where to buy obscure arcade parts stuff because it’s not advertised anywhere online. Laugh knows his stuff, so you’re guaranteed to get exactly what you ordered.
There is no reason, Laugh is the best source. I don’t even know where else to buy.