Hey guys… since i was a total know-nothing the last month, i’ve been reading the various threads on here and trying to piece together what i need to know to make my own stick. I’ve made these diagrams based on measurements of the parts from akihabarashop.com, but i’m seeking feedback from people who’ve made sticks in the past, to see if they’re viable. Things like the thickness of the wood being sufficient, the mounting bracket usage and stuff like that.
I’ve posted GIF’s, but here’s a link to the PDF version which i recommend everyone look at, cause you can zoom right in and see all the measurements clearly.
Please tell me what you think (and correct my mistakes, cause i don’t have parts on hand to confirm various things)
Also, what you suggest would work best/be easiest! I’ll take the ideas on board and change the files, then when they’re final they can be a good resource for the ‘Everything you need to know…’ thread :wgrin:
http://www.australian-postcodes.com/custom-stick/JLF-TP-8Y+JLF-P-1.gif
http://www.australian-postcodes.com/custom-stick/JLF-TP-8Y+JLF-P-1S.gif
Well technically, the first one is off because you need it to be mounted so that about 24mm of the shaft is exposed above the surface, just as it is in your second diagram. Just make sure you lower the “basin” for the P-1 plate so that the 24mm shaft measurement is correct, then you’ll be fine.
Another important measurement that people forget is that although the JLF base is basically a square, there are those two mounting hole pieces that come out making the length on one side 75mm as opposed to 65mm. Most people just make recesses that around 65mm x 65mm and when they try to mount they realize their mistake. Just keep it in mind since when you get the JLF-TP-8YT (P-1 version) the longer sides are positioned lengthwise under the mounting plate which is pretty annoying for top mounting (which is really the best way to mount a JLF because bottom mounting would make the top panel too thin in certain areas). When I build my custom sticks, I typically turn the base 90 degrees so that the long side of the base is perpendicular to the P-1 plate (this is how it is positioned on the JLF-TP-8YS). That makes it a lot easier in the long run.
Aside from those two key measurements, I didn’t check anything else. Those are the ones that give people the most problems the first time around.
Do you mind if I add your finished diagrams to the Sanwa/Seimitsu FAQ when you’re done? They are done very well aside from what I mentioned about the P-1 diagram.
~Paik
I haven’t got anything useful to add, but I’m intending on getting some sanwas myself, and these diagrams + paik’s tips are very helpful. Thanks!
–flux
Thanks Paik, pics of your custom sticks were a big help in creating these diagrams 
I guess the reason i made the basin only just have enough clearance was cause i was under the impression the lexan/plexi would push down more, if the basin was deeper - does it make much difference?
My preference was towards bottom mounting because of this, obviously the lexan/plexi is flush against the wood.
With both these diagrams i intended to mount the joystick with the 5 pin connector facing the top of the stick - is that what you mean?
When done, the diagrams can go in as many threads as you want (and they wont go down) * looks at arkadesticks.com*! :wgrin:
No, I mean look at the base. You see there are two smaller rectangular shapes with holes for mounting. For ease I take off the mounting plate (4 screws on top) and turn the plate 90 degrees.
As for the lexan question, no, there is no need to worry about the lexan being pressed down. One doesn’t put their hands down on that area and even if they did, a decent sized lexan sheet won’t push down anyway.
~Paik
Ok i’ve done a quick image of what i think you’re saying - forgive me if i’m being slow, like i said i don’t have the parts on hand, i’m just going off pics and stuff!
http://www.australian-postcodes.com/custom-stick/mounting-plate-rotated.gif
Kurdt, I think you are making this a little bit too complicated ^^. I assume you have a router (seeing how yoru diagrams have planned for a routed out area). I’d reccomend you just pull out your router and route out an area at the appropriate depth. Really no need for diagrams.
Following up what paik said, I’d go for the top mount if I were you. The gap between the lexan and wood is unnoticeable. Top mounting is also much more simple and clean.
kurdt, that is what I was talking about yes.
~Paik
Thanks for your replies guys
Chipper - i don’t have a router nor any experience woodworking! My brother in law however is a cabinet maker, i just want to have accurate diagrams to pass onto him to make the box for me Also, i’m picking up my parts in Japan in May during a holiday, so i don’t really want to start until i get them, since this is my first stick!
