Hey guys, I recently installed a Link on my stock TE and I noticed that it now has a huge deadzone. I’ve tried it with and without the 2nd dust washer, and it feels the same.
I can move the stick quite bit before it engages any of the switches. I’m not sure what the problem is… it’s beginning to get really frustrating. If it makes a difference, I’m using a bat top (sacrilege, I know).
If you do, in fact, have the v2 Link you are likely experiencing normal JLF deadzone but it feels worse due to the added weight of the Link shaft (and bat top if it’s an aluminum unit). This might sound pointless to you but hear me out. I felt the same way you did at first. Take the Link out and install the lower to the upper shaft outside the joystick and wiggle them. There shouldn’t be any give. Put the stock shaft in the JLF and see if it still feels the same without the Link. You should find, as I did, that what you were feeling is just normal deadzone. Try a stiffer spring. 2lb did the trick for me. 3lb feels grindy but if you have an aluminum bat top you may want the added tension. I would get a couple and try them out. You may also want to try a .5mm oversized actuator. A larger actuator will shorten the shaft travel until the switches engage. If none of that works I would scrap the JLF and get a Hayabusa. You wouldn’t have really wasted any money on the additional springs and actuator as they are all compatible with the Hayabusa as well. This includes the Link shaft. It works on the Hayabusa and feels much better on that than a JLF.
What I generally like to call v1.5 was when RosserRooster was powder-coating the shafts of v1 bases to reduce/eliminate the deadzone
v2 came out in time for EVO 2013, so June-July 2013
I’ve actually have/had all 2 (or 2.5) versions.
Best ways to reduce the deadzone with v1:
change to stiffer spring
swap the pivot to a Mad Catz imitation one from an SE/TvC/Brawlstick; the “looser” standards in the knock-off parts often meant that things fit a little tighter than they should