Sanwa JLF McDouble with Fries modification

Some backstory…
Years ago, [R-CADE Gaming made a ridiculous JLF modification](The Best Joystick for Shmups, a JLF!? New Mod! that people seemed to dismiss because of how too much work it took. I kinda forgot about it too, until i ate a double patty burger today. (not from mcdonalds though, i got whataburger).

Using some ideas from his mod, I made my own, IMO its simpler, more solidly constructed, more stupid looking.
gives almost no throw, which has its pro’s and cons. personally played on it for a few hours today and it has the general trappings of short throw, very small gate, the stiffer the better, so using a tighter spring will have its benefits, it favors softer micros with heavier springs, but experiment to your liking i guess.

Notes and Concerns

  • HORI Spring base and Actuator come from HORI “Fighting Stick” Line with the clone lever and short shaft (ex. Hori FS EX2, Hori FS V3, etc.)

  • You dont have to remove the JLF inner gate, mine just broke.

  • Now this part is something that I can see SRKTT go nuts and give me a lot of shit on, technically the gate are the microswitch body themselves hitting the (white) spring base. This also means the microswitches will take a bit more beating, try to use high quality microswitches like Cherry or Omron, in this example I used Panasonic microswitches from Seimitsu LS-32. It’s no different than the kind of abuse it gets from a junky HAPP stick, yeah? lol

Suggested Microswitches

  • Cherry D44x 75gf - Very good, smooth feel.

  • Omron V-15… / Panasonic AM516… 200gf - Good, stiffer, very clicky feel.

  • E-switch 50gf - Not bad, needs tougher spring.

  • ZIPPY 25gf - Bad, very loose, not good return, needs tougher spring.

  • For a heavier spring, a good option is the LS-38 or LS-55 spring. 2LB or 3LB JLF spring is good too, but should be stretched out.

I know there are actuators for this kinda thing. what this does is completely change the dynamics of the lever, but take advantage of the JLF’s good points (smooth pivot, easy to mount).

I dont expect anyone to really try out this mod, I just happened to have some time/spare parts around. But it does give me insight on what kind of joystick/lever I wanna produce through 3D printing and machining in the future, whoops, hibachi joystick revealed.

what a mutt

All of the best on your future endeavors! This looks promising.

You need some mutt-ed out buttons to go with that stick.

Like some happ buttons with seimitsu plungers and sanwa RG switches (if thats even possible)

Decent mod.

But it doesn’t have an 8-button bat top.

Yeah, that’s a good idea. (Or did you mean to put 8 buttons on the bat top?)

Rev. 2.0 uses a Sanwa LB-30N-CW and Art’s acrylic mounting plate, just to throw you off.

Random things like painted/coated gates would be good.

I think @dev might have a solid ball/bat top “cover” in the works as well. Not sure.

This was the first time I actually opened something that wasn’t safe for work at work. :frowning:

Why exactly is it called a “McDouble with Fries”? Where are the fries, so to speak?

the TP-MA with .250 qcd’s

@hibachifinal does this mod require I take off the metal tabs from the micro switch or does it work with the tabs on the micro switch? Also, to what length do you cut the actuators? Are you able to use a Sanwa spring base instead of hori if I use a Kowal actuator? I find this mod both very complex and very specific.