No worrries on the balls. Im about to build a wico p360 case ill need painted.
found the thread sir. have any more interior shots of the led stick to see how opposite side?
@butter oj, Ok I will ship that one out for you just so you have it. just hit me up when your ready on the other thing.
@d3v, 
thanks bro, I am glad too see you found it. and thank!!!
@Mufasa2- here is basically what I did. Used gasket to make the walls, Then made a flat panel out of thick paper and vinyl, poked the led’s thru and soldered it. After that I put some hot glue over it to make sure it didn’t touch the pcb and cause a short or something. Then I hot glued the panel to the walls all done, lol.
oh I always sand the plastic on the led’s to soften the light a little.
nice sir. i think i need to find a place that prints on backlight film or translucent film so light can emit thru
yeah if you are going BIG then go that route and back light it with a flurescent tube or something. If I make a cab which I will. I will deff go that route and make it like a arcade unit that doubles as a light show lol! I have been checking out the Casino buttons and different things they have for the machines. I must say I like what I found so far, now to get some money to experiment.
yeah for my project which i will start soon, i am looking for a cheaper way to work around el panels lol. those are $$$$$$
yeah I checked on them… and way too much for me 2.
hey Ronin, how many coats of primer and paint do you apply before you apply the clear coat?
cpl coats of reg primer filler- then a shallac base primer. sand inbetween- then shoot your paint (hide coat) just enough too hide the primer. that will be your base color coat. after that if you like the smoothness of it let it cure with its proper cure time(enamel 2 days)(lacquer 24 hrs if light coats) then sand down if the paint has a clear mixed in with it, use a scuff pad or 600 grit to ruff it up. Now you are ready for your clear. clean with the clearner that is made for auto painting inbetween each dry coat after you sand. after the final color coat is clean shoot your clear. I am waiting for MY new clear coat I will be using. It is called Spraymax 2k and it is a urethane clear that is like your cars finish. so that would be your best bet or if you want the best use RM aero max, those are two really good clear coats in a can two part urethane. If you have a spray gun then just use that. What is cool about urethane is you can clear coat over enamels or lacquers but they should be cured before shooting them.
that is arcylic lacquer and arcylic enamel. the Auto Air paints work good that is what I just ordered, so Auto Air under Urethane, which is arcylic enamel paint. duplic color acrylic lacquer works good too. the perfect match brand.
What do you use to paint the ball tops? How long do you leave them to dry? So sexyyy
scuff them up, then spray a promoter coat after that your color coat, then clear. I try to do ball tops in 1 day unless I hand paint them
hey ronin, when you said you use a cleaner, do you use something like duplicolor prep wipes to prep after each sand?
yeah you can use those they work great or if like me you need to use alot because all the work I do than I would suggest getting a pint of it. you can buy it at napa or order it online. it’s called prep cleaner I think a big bottle of it was only like 25 bucks.
I used a can of spraymax 2k today and I was freaking blown away. this shit is for real no joke shit, goes on perfect and sets fast. this is the best clearcoat I have found besides the RM aero max but that stuff is 50 bucks for one can., Spraymax 2k was only 20 for one can and performed great. I will wait one day or two and wet sand it I am so excited I can’t wait. also If I ever need to paint my older cases it will be cake, spraymax is a Urethane clear so It is ok for Lacquer or acylic enamels.
it was 95 degrees today and I had to wear full body protection when spraying the Urethane. body suit, hood, gloves, P95 3m dust mask and goggles. So when I was done I lost like 7 lbs of sweat(be careful) If you use this stuff be sure to wear all the proper protection or you may die, lol no really you may die. so Don’t go out and get unless you are ready and prepared to spray like a pro.
So… i’m nowhere near pro, so i’ll stick to the perfect match clear. A thick enough coat of it should withstand heavy play?
do like 2 coats let dry scuff slightly and put the final 2 coats on. if you are using duplicolor perfect match. It seems to bond better that way and be stronger. if you go too heavy with it the first time it will take forever to completely cure. Also alow at least 10 min between coats maybe even 15 if it is cool out side.
here is the case I painted with spraymax 2k this is with no wet sanding yet. but 2 coats and it is like 4 to 5 heavey coats of lacquer. So I will never go back to lacquer again NEVER lol. just buy a 5 dollar paint suit a 2 dollar hood 30 dollar gas mask, 8 dollar goggles and the gloves for solvents like 5 dollar for 100. like 50 dollars worth of gear damn now wonder I am broke. lol so if someone says ahhh that is way too much I will say I don’t care take it or leave it. but I am not making them for free anymore. because when you do all the numbers I am basicly doing just that (giving them away) I make like 50 cents an hour lol.
Quick question. How difficult would a snake be to do, coiling around a balltop? I did one of my own a while back but at the time, I didn’t know that you had to dilute tamiya, so it was a little thick and came out real messy.
I’ll try and geta pic up tomorrow to show what I mean.
yeah I can prob do that Francys but I would have to hand paint it on. I would also go with the Spraymax so things like your ball top I did, don’t get f-ed up from plastic bags. I love the Urethane it is soooooo goood and sooooo strong and my stupid A$$ forgot to post the picture lol. here is a case done in spraymax 2k before sanding and buffing.
^Use that tablecloth as top panel art Ronin. :razzy:
Just seen this thread very nice work mate, im taking a few internal ideas on the frame work cheers
Ronin what tool are you using to bore the side buttons? a shaped router bit?