Thanks and yea I hope you’re right.
hey just wondering before i actually try doing it,
if i were to link up a usb cable to the rj45 jack using the mc chthulu, would it work on my ps3? cause that would save me some time to make an extra hole for a usb jack, plus, it keeps it simpler
^ Yes, the USB/RJ-45 cable that you’d make following the instructions in the first post is for PS3/PC support. It works exactly the same as an A-to-B cable plugged in directly to the Cthulhu’s built in USB jack.
ok that’s great thanks a for the quick response!
and thanks to acceptablerisk for this guide, my next stick is for myself, it’ll be made to match my car, i even bought the same paint used on my car to paint it with =]
ek stick soon to be posted on the arcade stick thread
I just found this thread. I’ve made a modded Tekken 5 Hori with a breakaway board design using to custom made db15 connectors. It works fine for my PS3 and 360, but the DB15 connectors are a little unyielding. I’m making my stick this way so in the future when I want to add compatibility to it (and my arcade pedestal which I am working on) all I need to do is make a new breakaway board adapter.
Using the RJ45 keystone jacks and some Ethernet cables, I can make my idea work a lot simpler, so thanks for sharing the info.
I also now want to get my hands on a couple of Chuthulu multiconsole boards. That might be a pain in the ass though.
If you have ideas for how I can get them out to people easier, I’m all ears. LizardLick, GamingNow.net, Gremlin Solutions UK, and a few other places carry them, plus you can always order direct. Check the first post of the Cthulhu thread for details, URL in sig.
Hey ~ couple things i wanna know for when i get someone / i attempt to wire my prospective custom:
1.) I want to do RJ-45 neutrik, and USB neutrik on same stick
RJ-45 neturik: I want GC/PS2/Xbox1 only (as a result gives PS3, i guess?)
USB neutrik: I want PS3/Xbox360 only (guess PC will be available if those are fine)
I'll be using:
1.) Madcatz hacked 360 pad
2.) MC Cthulhu
3.) the 2 neutriks (http://www.neutrik.com/client/neutrik/media/products/view/210_t2_1947309938.jpg) **<--- no punchdown terminals on this specific RJ-45 neutrik**
4.) IMP
im using a little **1.5ft Cat5 cable ***(cut off one end solder onto MC and connect to the RJ45 feedthrough?)*
and a 1ft usb cable (cut off one end solder onto IMP and connect to USB neutrik?)
Would this give me my access to the appropriate consoles I specified?
Thank you for taking the time to read this!~
Yes, that will all work, but with the major caveat that you NEVER EVER try to connect it to two consoles at once (one through the USB neutrik, the other through the RJ-45 neutrik). If you do that, very very bad things could/would happen.
I would also recommend getting a USB jack to go with the Imp; it would be cleaner and easier to put together, since the USB jack solders to the Imp super clean, and you would just need a very short A-to-B USB cable to connect the Imp to the neutrik, without having to cut it open.
Ah! Good to know, I probably would of tried something like that down the line thanks.
Yeah, I also thought about using a USB jack soldered onto the IMP, but im using this USB neutrik unfortunately (http://www.neutrik.com/client/neutrik/media/products/view/210_t2_987072893.jpg). The only USB jack ive seen around here are of the B type, and ive never seen a B to B short usb cable (males). Unless someone knows of one, all i can find is short A to B USB cable??:tup:
Thanks again
EDIT: I found this (http://www.dcables.net/USB-B-to-B-Cable-v2_0-6-Feet.aspx) but thats 6ft long :[
Extra question!!!: My other question is (just remembered) that with this specific neutrik set up (RJ45 and USB) will there still be a place for a joystick that needs power? (aka Sanwa flash, P360?)
Because that would really suck if I couldn't have a powered joystick and make use one of the neutriks + the powerered joystick (at the same time)... If that was the case I would rather just utilize the sole RJ45 neutrik for access to Xbox360/PS3...(*If The answer is **NO**, that I cannot use a powered joystick with my desired set up....how can I make it so all consoles are available from RJ45 neutrik?* <-------- Would it simply be a Cat5 (to neutrik), cut at one end, soldered onto the IMP?
Lizard Lick and Gamingnow both sell reversable A/B neutrik USB feed-throughs. Just need to remove two screws to reverse it. No need for hunting down fancy USB cables, or else I’d just suggest soldering two B-ends together.
neutrik USB jacks have one female A end and one female B end. It’s reversable, so you could switch which is on which end if you need. The USB jack for the imp is a female B, same as the cthulhu. You want the jack on the outside of the case to be the same as the imp/cthulhu: a female B.
So, draw it out on a piece of paper.
(Imp, female B) ------------<cable>------------(neutrik, female A end <-> female B end on outside of case).
So the cable between the imp and neutrik needs to be a short, standard ‘A-to-B’ cable, like this 18" one:
Edit question 1: Yes, you can still tap power, preferably at the cthulhu VCC screw terminal. If you have wiring questions, check the MC+Imp in a TE thread of Bomberman’s.
Awesome, thank you, and will do. I already sent my custom builder the usb neutrik with the A female on the outside (i think reversing it would kill it aesthetically) so I may just end up cutting the end of the short one you linked, and soldering that (no usb jack i supposee:crybaby:)
edit: edited because i just found out the neutrik guts are reversible, silly me
just a quick question. will the NE8MC-B-1 jack fit inside the TE fightstick cable compartment when its connected to the NE8FDP-B adapter on inside?
this concept seems interesting so i wanna put the adapter inside the box and just plug the cable then close the door on it but iono if this set-up is gonna be to big or long to fit and the door wont close.
No, it won’t close while plugged into the adapter with the cable jacket.
hmm maybe on the side of the compartment then…sound like a good idea?
Would be, but the sides are where the screws that secure the compartment to the rest of the stick.
Keep in mind you’ll need to cut away some of the inside of the TE if you mount the Neutrik jack in the compartment.
Here’s mine.
Here’s the outside view here.
Got my MC Cthulu installed in the case of the Hori RAP-style stick whose PCB I ruined when soldering quick disconnect lines.
The USB/PS3 functionality works like a charm but I can’t get the darn PS2 functionality with the RJ45!
I discovered I switched two lines around and fixed them second or third time around. I was able to get stick functionality with the PS2 browser and could use the “X” button and joystick but the MCC-modded stick never worked with the Magic Swap disc or any of my Region 1 fighting games. The system would load normally but the stick was dead when the Start screens came up.
I tested the lines to find out which ones went into the pin slots in the RJ45 and literally rebuilt the adapter 4 times over in three days (and shortening the cord length a few good inches in the process). I haven’t been able to isolate if the problem is with the MC Cthulu (don’t think it’s a soldering issue) or the stock Hori PS2 system connect that I kept from the Hori PCB. I’m leaning towards an issue with this particular connector cord but I can’t say for sure unless I got a genuine PS2 replacement cord or extension cord to test with.
I’ll keep this PCB regardless but am a bit disappointed I wasn’t able to get the full functionality…
I was wondering if anyone used the cord from the Pelican Universal Real Arcade Stick and put an RJ45 connector on it? I count 13 wires on it and the RJ45 connector uses eight.
This is a known problem with games and mod software like HD Loader that soft reset the PS2. Replugging the stick once the game is up has always fixed it. I’ll be working on fixing it as soon as finals are over and I get time to setup a workbench with the oscilloscope.
That thing is such a headache. I don’t know about putting RJ45 connectors on it, but I tried wiring all three up directly to the MC Cthulhu and it was a pain in the ass because it seems as though they all share the same VCC (power) cable.
Anyway, you would need 3 different RJ45 plugs, one for each console cable. You’re better off making 3 separate cables, just to save yourself the headache. imo.