I was JUST on my way to let you all know i just learned that! The diodes are fine. Sorry, this is something I could have not bothered anyone with.
But it’s still not working and I honestly don’t get it. The USB and GC cables check out fine while plugged in with my multimeter. Let me try another update?
I honestly think its because of all the things Im do at once. I’m fixing laptops over here…working on kid’s D.S’ over there…i got music equipment and parts everywhere, PSPs…
And Ironically, all this work and I haven’t practiced in over a month.
You don’t need an RJ-45 port. But as some one Xrebellion pointed out you can’t use a 4 wire usb cable, You need an ethernet cable with 8 wires.
If you are worried about cord length, you can always buy a ethernet cable and a Female/Female coupler as a universal extension cord.
Another option. You can solder an ethernet cable to the G-V row 1 and have that come out of your case. Then on the cable outside of the case you can use a Din-8 connector for all of the console cables. The benefits of the RJ-45 though is nice storage of the stick with detachable cables to be bundled up somewhere else.
Also instead of an RJ-45, you can use a D-sub 9 and not use one pin.
what i do is i splice all cables to rj45 before i connect them to the cat5 jack. i do simple soldered butt splices covered with individual 3/16" heat shrink tubes, all of them covered with a 1/2" heat shrink tube, and bound with a few 4" zip ties. As of today, PSX/PS2/PS3 is perfect.
The big thing about PS2 cables is that the individual wires are VERY THIN strands mainly composed of a nylon filler. Because there are 7 wires in the PS2 controller that are required, you’ll have to use something with a minimum of 7 connectors, USB will not do. I found the most reliable thing to do is to splice each wire to a cat5 wire with a butt connection, soldered (make sure to wet the wires), then covered with individual heat shrink tubs, then all bundled together and shrank with a larger tube. It may look hacked, but it is bulletproof, besides I’ve got a 30 foot PS2 cable now!
While you cant use the original you could use the method I did. You can use a cat 5 cable as the actual console cable, then have a female female rj45 inline adapter which you can plug your cable ends into.
Ah, I like that idea. May I ask where you bought that adapter from?
On another note, one of the reasons why I asked my previous question was because I was concerned with the connection of the cables to the RJ45 jack without the cable boots. I was just being overly paranoid that the cables would disconnect too easily or the connection would drop. Thanks to NiteWalker for clearing that up for me though.
I have a couple of those I bought during original testing of the Neutrik jacks (not actually using them in any sticks). They’re punchdown-style just like the keystone jacks used in the first post of this thread.
Here’s a vid demonstrating how to use a punchdown tool:
Here is the Hope you need:
Most of my RJ-45 sticks use the punchdown style jacks like the one you listed. Be sure to use “B” that is how most Cat 5/6 cables do the wiring by default. Never saw one that used “A”
I have not been able to get PS2/PSX working. I did get a USB-RJ-45 working though. And with my PS3 dead, All i have to keep me sane is my loyal dreamcast…best woman ever been in my life.
The PS2 cord I have has 8 wires. The 3rd pin from the left is the 8th wire, but following the guide, we just put something else there anyway, right? And be sure to leave the 6th slot on the RJ-45 jack empty?
Hey guys, I’ve been reading through this thread specifically to try to see if the following is possible for a recent (although long time waiting) customer of mine. He’d like to have a stick that supports the following:
PS3
360
PS/2
GC/Wii
I’d be using a MC Cthu w/imp and a Madcatz 360 PCB for the dual mod portion. If I’ve been reading correctly, it’s not possible to support all 4 of these consoles with just a since RJ45 Neutrik, correct?
