I ran G & V to the Imp, then ran Grnd and VCC from the USB points on the Imp to the Din-8. Would this cause problems?
I saw in rtdzign’s tutorial on Imp + 360 + MC Cthulhu that he draws the Ground and VCC to the Imp from other spots, and then runs G & V directly to the RJ-45. Could this cause all my problems?
EDIT: Ok, so I had tried running my cthulhu directly to my computer with its USB port, and it wasn’t recognized either. So I switched Ground on the Imp to one of the plethora of ground points on my Madcatz PCB, and moved VCC to the USB soldering point on the same PCB, then moved Ground and VCC from the USB points on the Imp to G & V on my Cthulhu, and it WAS recognized.
Just need to fix my soldering on the Din-8 plug for the USB to test this out completely, but I think my problem is solved.
I rewired the Din-8, and everything works! So that was the problem. So glad I came across that guide sir.
My cat had eaten one of the probes on my multimeter (She is talented…she finds whatever tools and parts I need and eats them just before I can get to them), so my mom was bringing in my stepdad’s multimeter today. I would’ve been stuck at the same point if I had gotten it, because that would’ve been the problem, and I would’ve most likely found continuity everywhere.
If you’re talking controller cords – unless you have broken or unused controllers you don’t mind scavenging for ports – you’ll have to buy extension cords for various controllers online. Unless you’re talking systems that are older than 20 years, there are still lots of extension cords available for most systems made since the mid-1990s. They generally don’t cost more than $6 before taxes and shipping.
I learned a lot about Sega and Hori cord standards when I modded them for the RJ-45 jack!
As for ethernet and USB cables, any decent computer store has them in stock. 10-foot USB cable is easy to find for around $5 online. Some discount stores like Big Lots also sell 10-foot USB cables for $5, too. Ethernet cable is a bit harder to find cheap…
For PS2 cords I often go to thrift stores and look for busted controllers. Since I only need the cords, I just open up the controller and cut the cords at the PCB and throw away the pad.
rtdzign, I just got done with my first rj-45 mod today. Your guide was really helpful, and my Virtua Stick feels a lot lighter and free-er now that it doesn’t have four cord hanging off of it at all times
awwww man this is awesome! i know the thread is a bit old, but this is news to me. long time member, but i been in haitus after i 1st started here in srk lol. thanks for this tutorial bro! now, i just hope the cthulhu comes back in stock soon (@lizardlick).
Hello ! i am hoping i can get some info about this mod. Suppose i am dual modding a PS3 TE for PS2 with a padhack. No Imp board or mcthulthu involved at all. Is there a way i can use a single RJ45 jack for both?
since USB would need 4 and the PS2 would need 8, are there wires they can share without damaging each other’s PCBs?
Swapping the ps3 te pcb out with an MC Cthulhu would be much easier in the end, as well as being more reliable. You could sell the te PCB to offset some of the cost of the mc cthulhu.
Thank you so much for the quick response NiteWalker ! i really appreciate it.
To be honest, it’s a bit more complex then that, i wanted to keep it simple for explanation’s sake. The truth is i have a dual mod xbox360/PS3 already going, using a USB hub. It works without switch or imp board on both ps3 and xbox. i’ve even added usb ports to the back thanks to the hub i installed. pic
I wanted to add PS2 compatibility and use an RJ45 jack that connects to both USB and PS2 to save space in the wire bay. Any thoughts?
Agreed with Nitewalker. I would remove the PS3 PCB and the turbo panel completely, and only use the MC Cthulhu. To cover the turbo hole get a replacement acrylic top and some art done from tek-innovations, with the “No Turbo Hole”
I would put the Neutrik rj45 in the hole for select.
Thanks RTDZIGN ! actually i was going to get mini buttons like those and put them next to start and select to replace my L2 and L1. I ordered a tek-innovations plexi with 6 button layout instead of 8.
As for the turbo panel, i actually wanted to keep it. I did extra wiring with a madcatz fightpad to keep turbo functionality and even keep the RS DP LS switch on both ps3 and xbox for scrolling shooters and whatnot. Mostly i just wanted to see if i could make it work. I’m happy to say it all works flawlessly, so i’d rather not undo it all to replace it with a mcthulthu/imp board.
wiring pic 1
the 360 pcb and USB hub are underneath the middle plastic panel
Those are some really nice buttons, they might be just what i need to make new L1 and L2 buttons to fit to the left and right of start/select.
I very much appreciate your input guys. Any other ideas? Just to reiterate, i’d like to use an RJ45 jack that a usb and PS2 cable can share.
What if i make sure one or the other’s ground is not used? would that make sure no power can circulate through the wrong PCB at all?
Hey guys, i was wondering if there were any other views on this idea? you need 7 pins for PS2 and 4 for USB, is there any way they can share an RJ45 plug? if VCC and GROUND are completely isolated on their own for PS2, would sharing the others with the USB wires be unsafe? perhaps i should just look for a plug with 11 (or 12) pins?
sorry i wouldnt go for the cthulthu idea… it really is wonderful, however i worked so hard to keep all the buttons functionality on xbox and PS3. I wouldnt want to sacrifice or add a button JUST to change consoles. Plus lose the working LS DP RS switch and turbo. They’re useless for fighting games but you never know when you might get stuck trying to navigate something that requires right analog or left analog, etc…
If there is no answer for me, are there any good 12 pin connectors someone can suggest?
WOW, thank you rtdzign ! that is exactly the info i needed. I really appreciate it, man. And this way i don’t even need to seperately connect the 3.3v of the PSX and the 5v of the USB together, they’ll already be connected at the plug level. Again, thank you very much !
rtdzign, thanks for tutorial!
The only thing i don’t get which of two Gamecube schemes is right. According your numbering i need to connect pins 1,2 & 3. But in quote of Mits post pins 2,3 & 6 are used.
