That’s because you’re using the wrong plugs.
Use 2 piece Cat6 plugs, they come with a separate loading bar so you don’t waste your life feeding the wires through a fucking assault course.
LOL, I was wondering if such a thing existed. Thanks for the advice. Will definitely get some for future cabling.
Im having problems with making the RJ45 gamecube cord for the MC Cthulhu ezmod that Jasen released. I used the Silver GC controler cord & multimeter the 1,2&3 spots get the RJ45 done
nothing is reading, then I thought , do I have to update this board ? but how can I without usb?
anybody know whats up with the GC cube part for this MC Cthulhu ?
this is what I fallowed
**Gamecube: **
Gamecube pin Purpose RJ45 Pin
3 Ground 1
2
3
4
5
6
2 Data 7
1 VCC 8
[quote=Mit, post: ]
I just finished modding an SE Wii stick with an MC Cthulhu and made a USB and a Gamecube cable
I have a question about the MC Cthulhu. It says it’s Wii compatible, so I’m curious. Is there a pinout for the Wii Extension cable so that it can be used with the Wii Nunchuk and theoretically the NES Classic?
If so does anyone have a pinout for one?
And if not, is it only by using some Wii Adapter (and how much lag would that cause)?
I feel like I wasted money on this … I fallowed all the steps and zero results
this sucks
Hit me up.
It was only Wii Compatible via the Gamecube ports, so if the game doesn’t support Gamecube controllers or you have a later generation Wii without CG ports, it won’t work.
Would anyone like to make some wires for me. I’m willing to pay let me know.
Because some of the images in the first post have died:
Here some more info to work backwards from if needed
RJ45 to Cthulhu
Toodles original How do guides for cables in Instructibles
http://www.instructables.com/member/Toodles/instructables/
And before anyone say anything Stupid, everything that uses RJ45 in the FGC uses the same RJ45 pinout
So basically everything should Match to Toodles’s Cthulhu wire layout
Hey guys, I’m trying to make a 3do cable for my cthulhu-based stick, and not having much success. My 3do is the Panasonic FZ-10. My stick is driven by a Cthulhu+Imp+360, and I’ve never had a problem with it.
Whenever I start the 3do with the stick connected, it is as if it is not connected. If I unplug the cable and plug it back on with the 3do running, I then get a response, but it’s not a good one. Directionals and buttons are incorrect. The following are some of the symptoms, as tested in SSF2T: pressing left produces ‘short kick’, pressing right produces ‘up’, pressing up moves the character right. The same basic thing occurs in Need for Speed, too. Those are the only 2 games I’ve tested with.
I used the pinout on page 1 of this thread, and expanded it with all the information below, so I can be confident when testing.
https://klovimg.com/images/2017/10/22/3do.md.png
First, does anybody see anything wrong with the above information?
I use a dead sega genesis controller for the donor cable. I have tried all combinations of the grounds and VCC’s, always with the same result. What am I missing?
Did you check the cable for any breaks ?
Yes, I’ve tested continuity from console-end plug to RJ-45 head (and even to the cthulhu column). I have also checked for shorts. No problems there.
As of today, I removed the imp/x360 dual mod, and returned the cthulhu to non-dual-modded. Tested the stick with other consoles after the removal, and it works fine. After that, I tried the 1ms and 10ms firmware v2.3 with the 3do. Same result as noted above, with either firmware. I tried every conceivable combination of 3do CLOCK, DATA and ACK (P/S) wiring at cthulhu A, C and F. With any configuration other than the pinout above, the controller doesn’t respond.
I saw a post back within this thread, of someone else with a FZ-10 reporting incompatibility. Possibly it has to do with polling timing? Any easy way to change the timing in firmware v2.3, to try different timings? (I’m no coder…).
Anyone had luck making Dreamcast cables? Mine get constant BSOD/disconnect errors. I’m using PS360+ instead of cthulu, but concept should be same.
I’ve had no problem with dc on my cthulhu but I don’t have experience with the ps360+.
Same here. All my DC cables worked great.
A few minor pieces of advice for anyone making RJ-45 to “Insert Name of Game Console Cables Here” for Brook Retro Boards, Akishop PS-360+, etc…
1] I prefer to use male-female cable extensions instead of actual controller chords for 2 reasons…
-1a I don’t like to sacrifice controllers [unless they really suck or the controller is defective ]
-1b After destroying the female end, sometimes I can cannibalize parts inside the female end to extend the male leads making it easier to test the connections on the male end. The Playstation 1 and 2 extension cables are great for this.
2] After deciding to cut the end, instead of stripping the wires, immediately put the RJ-45 boot on, slide the boot far enough onto the cable that it won’t get on your nerves, THEN strip the wire. I get pissed when I have to put the RJ-45 boot on after I’ve stripped the internal wires since they might get in the way, or worse yet, I may forget and crimp the end. Now I have to decide whether I want to cut the end off wasting an RJ-45 end just to get the boot on or not [I usually do in anger…].
3] I don’t remember who said this in the thread earlier, but in order of ease of use, use…
-3a Cat 6 RJ-45 ends that are of an either 2 or 3 piece design.
-These include a loading bar. Slide the ends into the loading bar, recheck, trim the wires, insert them into the RJ-45 plug and crimp them.
-This is the best kind of end you could use. I like using shielded ends, but I don’t think that’s necessary.
-3b Cat6 RJ-45 Pass through ends / opened ended [these aren’t as good as Cat6 2-3 piece designs]
-The wires have the same issue as the 4th one I will mention, but they aren’t as severe because the wires will protrude through the other end of the connector. This will prevent accidentally putting them into the end short of the contacts. When you crimp them, you want to have a special RJ-45 crimper that trims the wires as you crimp otherwise you have to trim the wires afterwards. Even then you might have or want to. You may also want to cut the wire longer which shortens the cable unnecessarily. I can recommend their use, but not to the same extent as the RJ-45 2 or 3 piece design.
-3c Almost any other design of RJ-45 Cat-5 / Cat-6 end except the RJ-45 single piece standard / closed end versions.
-Any other design including the no crimp versions would be better than the next one…
-3d RJ-45 Cat5/6 single piece standard closed end.
-DO NOT USE. They are a hassle to use. Sure you can get it right, sure they do work, but you have to fight with the wires WAY too much. If using it for RJ45 to RJ45 it’s semi-passable, but I won’t use them. I’m not patient enough to deal with constant shifting of the wires right when I’m sure I’ve got it. This is a bigger problem when you can send the individual wires into multiple slots that are further into the thing. The wires might not go all the way through to the contacts, and it’s harder to aim the wires into the exact spot you want. Using a loading bar designed RJ-45 end solves all these issues.
Bumping this thread. I edited the first post to have this be a .pdf now that MC Cthulhu’s are available again.
I made the .pdf for my own reference, as I was building an arcade stick for my friend, but came here and all the image links were broken. The hosting site has a 10 GB a month download limit, so it may be undownloadable if too many people download it. I’m hoping that it is niche enough that it won’t get to that as it is only 3 MB.
Enjoy.
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The best way to install a Cthulhu IMO and RJ-45 mod it is to hook up one of these…
This will solve a lot of problems and allow you to correct other ones without having to re-solder.
When hooking up the Cthulhu or the Retro Board, or the PS360+, you need to use the right RJ-45 cables, and yes there’s more than one type.
Here’s the OSI model shrunk for non-IT guys.
The Cthulhu, Retro Board, and whatnot are technically end devices, and not on the same layer as the device they’re being hooked up to. This means you need a STRAIGHT RJ-45 / Ethernet cable to hook up to it.
When hooking up a computer to a computer, or a router to a router, or a switch to a switch, you need a crossover cable because the 2 devices are on the same OSI model layer. This almost never happens to non-IT guys, so you should never need a crossover cable.
Identifying the kind of cable you have…
Almost every cable on the market is a straight BB cable shown below. This is the only one IMO that should EVER be used.
There are straight RJ-45 AA cables, but I think that they’re rare.
If you plan to use one, only use it to connect the Cthulhu to the board indirectly, as in through something like a Neutrik jack, or the RJ-45 terminal I showed you earlier. Never wire it directly to the board. If you do, you have to wire it based on the A standard, and that increases the odds of getting things confused and thus getting things wrong. Don’t do it.
There’s also a crossover cable.
The only way this should ever be used on a Cthulhu is if you are cutting off the A end, AKA, the end with the Green stripe and the Green Solid together, and then either wiring it to the board as per all the guides shown here and in other places [which converts it to a BB connection], or by crimping on an RJ-45 end in a manner that converts it to a BB cable.
All this can be avoided by the following rules…
1] Connect a screw terminal . This is Cthulhu only as all the other ones I’m mentioning already have RJ-45 ports built in. There’s also no need to solder with the others in any way for these reasons.
Solder 8 wires, ensure the USB port is aimed down, then make sure the RJ-45 port is aimed away, screw terminals are up, and hook them up in the following order…
G to 1
A to 2
B to 3
C to 4
D to 5
E to 6
F to 7
V to 8
-Using a screw terminal is an optional rule that I deem mandatory. This can be skipped if the device already has bulit-in RJ-45 ports.
2] Examine any cables you use.
-If you see an A end, grab the second end and look at it. If it’s also an A end, you can use it to connect indirectly, as in from a screw terminal and not directly to the board
-If you see a B end, grab the second end, and if you see a B end, you can solder it directly to the board as per all previous instructions in this thread.
-If you see an A end and a B end, and you choose to use it, the only way is to cut off the A end and solder it as per all the instructions found in this thread. DO NOT use this to connect from the RJ-45 port to any end device without converting it to a straight Cable.