jejeje, because if you have the reason is I use the translator so sorry but my English is bad. Ok I understand I have to change a few diodes and IC, a good order again now I have to see how long it takes to have a greeting and thanks.
Check out my post on using two-piece Cat6 connectors, they’re so much easier than standard RJ45 connectors for making system cables.
Had to make a PS2 cable for someone today and figured Id take a pic:
Is it just me or are Sega Saturn Cables really hard to insert in the RJ connection? I’ve been struggling for like an hour now trying to get this thing in 
I think it was VOLTECH who suggested using Cat6 RJ45 plugs? They have slightly bigger shafts, though yet to try this out for myself yet. The two piece Cat6 plugs will be even easier as they come with a wire feeder, but more expensive.
Thanks Gahrling! I’ll go pick some up and try it out. I need some QD’s anyways… and maybe an new soldering iron… and and and… yeah…
Thank Voltech for the suggestion, as said - I’m almost ready to try this out for myself as I have 5 cables to modify. Just waiting on delivery…
Hello, I’m using this for my stick Neutrik. What settings should I use? A / A or A / B. greetings thank you very much.
http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_standard/092-183_s.jpg
http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Small/514-0009.jpg
The first column (A,B) refers to the left hand terminal points, and you should follow that.
For the right hand terminal points you need to follow the colours under ‘B’. Ignore the column under ‘A’ completely.
So your wiring should look like this:
white/brown --------- orange
brown ---------------- white/orange
white/blue ----------- white/green
blue ------------------ green
Make sure to use the correct punch-down tool for a stable connection. Alternatively just solder to the points on the back of the Neutrik pcb like I do.
Although you could make life much easier for yourself by just getting a Neutrik feed-through jack, like the NE8FDP.
thank you very much worth
Hello,
I have just built my first arcade stick and have some problems i just cannot work out.
If anyone here could help i would be forever gratefull!
For my build I have used the mc cthulhu, soldered an ethernet cable to it (as per your guide, Thanks). The ethernet cable is then plugged into a switchcraft port mounted in the case. i have also crimped an rj45 connector on the end of a snes controller extension lead.
PC
When i plug my stick in to my pc, i go to Cthulhu Multiconsole Edition Properties. All buttons and directions when pressed activate the numbers and directions on screen. sweet, everythings works so off to the game room!
SNES (Game - street fighter 2)
When i plug my stick into the snes using the cable i made, the console loads, but no joystick directions work and the only button that does anything is B which pauses the game when pressed, then unpauses and punches when pressed again. Gutted
So…back to the kitchen table and out with the multi meter.
I plugged my snes/rj45 lead in to the arcade stick and with my multi meter continuity tested from mc cthulhu points GABCDEFV, all the way through to the pin outs of the snes controller socket (had to ues a bit of wire as my meters probes wouldnt fit in the snes little holes) .
The results?
Snes Controller pin / Mc cthulhu
1 / G
4 / C
5 / F
6 / A
7 / V
Isnt that what they are supposed to be?! I am totally stumped now. Am i missing something obvious?
Any advice would be so welcome. Its taken 5 weeks to get it where its at, its been finished for 3 days now and i just cant get it working! Its gutting.
(I have pictures but cant post them)
Not sure if I can be of help as I’ve yet to modify a SNES cable, but to eliminate the obvious have you tried updating the MC Cthulhu’s firmware?
Hi, thanks for the quick response.
Yeah, i already updated MC Cthulhu’s firmware. its running v2.3
I think thats the latest??
Yep, 2.3.
Sorry - if you’re sure you’ve got the plugs (SNES and RJ45) the right way round as shown in the pics then I don’t know what else to suggest. You’ve already checked the continuity so hopefully someone else can provide a bit of helpful insight.
2.3 Cool.
Thanks for your input anyway:tup:
Yeah, im afraid to say 100% the cable is correct. im no expert but im as sure as i can be as i have checked the continuity several times.
Just to confirm, i have it set up like:
snes------rj45-------mc cthulhu
1-------------1--------------G
4-------------4--------------C
5-------------7--------------F
6-------------2--------------A
7-------------8--------------V
8 Button Joystick wiring as follows: (Start, Select, 3 punches and 3 kicks)
Button---------- mc cthulhu
Start----------------Start
Select-------------Select
1----------------------1P
2----------------------2P
3----------------------3P
4----------------------1K
5----------------------2K
6----------------------3K
Control Panel Button Layout as follows:
---------------------------------(start)----(1)—(2)—(3)
(Joystk)
--------------------------------(select)—(4)—(5)—(6)
Once again any help or advice would be greatley appreciated
Regards
You need to check for shorts between the columns, with and without the cable connected. The MC is seeing a different console than the SNES and trying to act appropriately, and the SNES is seeing the gobledlygook and misinterpreting. Either some of the wires in the RJ-45 cable are intermittantly loose (bitch to track down), or there is a short bridging two or more of the columns, causing the Cthulhu to misinterpret what its connected to.
And just for testing, it’s always more reliable to plug in the cord when the system is running than to have it plugged in and then powering on the system. Should work that way, sure, but for initial testing, console on and then plug in.
Hey Toodles, thanks for your Help.
Sorry but im a noob and only know how to do a continuity test. o_O
How would i go about checking for shorts between the columns?
Kind Regards
Check for continuity between G and A. Then G and B, G to C, G to D, G to E, G to F.
Then check for continuity between A and B, A and C, A and D, A and E, A and F.
Then B and C, then B and D, then B and E…
See the pattern? You’re looking for continuity between any pair of columns except V.
If you find one, check again without the cable plugged in. If its still there, its somewhere inside the stick. If not, its in the cable.
I’ve never seen that pad.
Two things you must figure out using a multimeter.
-
Is it common ground? Check for continuity for ground between where the black wire is soldered on usb to each of the buttons. If it beeps on one side for all buttons and directions then it is common ground and yes you can use it. If not then no, you cannot.
-
If you want to use the triggers, are the triggers active High or Active low? For the triggers if active high you will have to invert them. If low you only have to use resistors. This is too complicated for me to explain in more detail, so I’ll provide links to webpages that discuss this.
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html
How to padhack an 08/09 Madcatz 4716 Common Ground Xbox 360 Pad
Just a heads up to all rigging up wires using GameCube extension cables.
I bought a set of Cube extension cables on eBay (a pack of 2, sold by user “mxqtech”, item #300573152704, if it helps any).
Tried to wire one of them up using the “extension cable” wire-pinout on the first page, no dice.
Wired the second one following the “GBA-to-GC cable” wire-pinout from Mit’s post, and it works (if it helps any, the wires 1-2-3 according to Mit’s original post were red-white-blue in my cables).
I’m not sure what signs anyone could use to figure out which of the two layouts to use, though.