Iseelba the wood is 3/4" thick plus a 1/16" thick piece of plexiglass.
Dial911 yes the JLW bat top is the best stick for the case if you want to the least amount of work. It may still be just a tad short but is the closest you are probably going to get to something that feels good and can be mounted easy.
They didn’t bother to route out ANY wood for the bottom of the stick? If thats the case then the JLW’s I have might be too short. I wouldn’t buy any until I post up a picture of what the joystick looks mounted. As soon as I get my boxes that is 
Yeah they didn’t rout any wood from the bottom of the stick at all. The joystick they used had an extra long shaft so that they didn’t have to bother routing. The JLW should feel all right with a Bat Top on it. With a ball top it will be playable but feel a bit short. It is kind of hard to go in now and try to rout out some wood from the inside of the box since it is allready put together. You can’t really get a Router to fit inside the box. At this point it is much easier to just top mount your stick than to try and rout out on the inside of the box.
ModCapper: If you want to use a JLF and a bat top you can extend the Height of the stick a little bit by putting a nut and washer on the shaft to act as a spacer. It will make the height of the bat top be more or less the same as it would be on the JLW. Like I said before it will feel just a tad short but is the best you are going to get if you want to bottom mount your stick. Note: You could probably do this trick on the JLW sticks also to make them the perfect height.
How would I know what size nut and washer to use and where would be the best place to buy them?
I used a M6-1.00 Nut and M6 Washer. Those are metric sizes since they tend to use the metric system in Japan. You might be able to find them at Home Depot but they won’t have as wide a selection of sizes of nuts and bolts as your local mom and pop hardware store will. I picked mine up at Elliot’s Hardware which is a local Dallas Hardware Store.
Thank you Spiffy for the help.
Anyone else tracking their RO shipment? DHL handed the shipment to USPS. wtf? I have to wait 1 more day.
is that plexi glued on? I was looking to put in some custom art for that thing.
too bad about bottom mounting sanwas not being tall enough, that would of made it a winner for me. I can’t see a ball top working too well with a washer and nut =/
I know exactly what you mean. I was tracking mine, and first, they failed to deliver to USPS, and they waited a business day. Now, the gave it to them and I have to wait yet another day >.< Oh well. As long as it gets here.
I got mine yesterday, and am quite pleased with the box.
dang it, where are our orders!!!
I ordered mine on like Thursday or Friday and got it yesterday
damn, they don’t accept paypal either. Time to find a generous friend…
I’m new to this forum and new to console joysticks period. To be honest, it’s probably been a year since I’ve even touched an arcade joystick.
Quick comparison here. Which stick is better for primarily 2d fighter gaming: The US Tekken 5 stick or this Red Octane stick? I can get the RO stick for $20 (plus shipping) or I can get the Tekken 5 stick (as part of the bundle) for $50. I have no intention of modding because I am lazy and wouldn’t have a clue where to start.
Keep in mind that any arcade stick at all would probably work for me, but I’m interested in a decent one that needs no extra work. I don’t plan on actively competing anytime soon. This is just for personal, at home enjoyment for a fan of Street Fighter games.
get Tekken5 joystick.
The only reason we are buying a RO is for the nice base. Well at least I am.
If you are not planning on modding it, definitely get the Tekken5.
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Does anyone know which PS2->GC or PS2->XBox converters work with the RO PCB? It lags on both SFA and GG and it won’t even recognize my CvS2 on my GC. It’s working fine on my PC…
just got mine today. found one little scratch, but its cool.
does anyone know how to open the case so i can mod the joystick and buttons?
Peel out that black non-slip mat. You’ll find screws underneath. The residue will come out with goo-gone
I got my Red Octanes and I have my Sanwas, but I have no idea what to do from here. I want to replace PCB, buttons, and stick, but I don’t have the parts. Do I just rip out the insides and start with just the box? I’ve unscrewed the bottom, but the buttons don’t come out so easily…
Hell, are there instructions for this somewhere?
not really clear cut instructions, but a lot of helpful threads here.
do you have your pcb and everything ready? if not, just hold on and read up for now. it’s not that hard really.
I just got my boxes.
**UPDATE ON SANWA MODIFICATION:
**I have a few Sanwa JLW’s with extended shafts. I put a nut on the top of the shaft, and the end result is a Sanwa with the same length shaft as the stock Red Octane Stick. Check out the picture below:
http://img447.imageshack.us/img447/5848/26637ie.jpg
Note about that picture: The Happ Competition is only there for reference. You can’t actually mount it in the Red Octane case easily because the bottom part is too big.
Using one of the Sanwa JLW joysticks is the easiest way to Sanwa mod the RO stick. Just bottom mount it, connect the quick disconnects already in the Red Octane, connect the grounds (solder or use your own quick disconnects), and you’re good to go. No woodwork required.
If you’re interested, I’ve got brand new Sanwa JLW’s with extended shafts, dust cover, balltop, and even the nut to make the balltop sit higher. $26 including shipping. PM me or post in my other thread:
