Good look man. :tup: I’ll PM you to get an update sometime tomorrow. You can PM me whenever you get anything together.
That image looks like a tough fit, with those buttons being so high up on the case. If I can mask the logo successfully, and reverse the image, maybe that would workout, or If I could find a seperate 3rd strike logo, I could manage some creative re-arranging. more than likely, I’ll try to fit the faces just below the buttons, and have it black on top, with the logo in the top left of the stick/template on the black background. how does that sound?
As long as I can see Ibuki’s face. :lol:
Its half hidden anyway! :tup:
All done, Ill send a pm. I think it looks pretty decent. I switched the template colors to white so you could see where to cut on the black background.
That’s so disappointing that Red Octane made their new stick unfriendly for putting in Happ Parts. I’m guessing everyone is putting in a new bottom base in order for the competition stick to fit in. By the way I bought the street fighter anniversary stick. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to pull the disconnects off because I tried to do it by hand it they’re not coming off that easily.
Got an extras?? I’m interested.
Also if anyone has one that they dont want to mod I would be interested in purchasing that as well. You guys sold them all out LOL.
thanks.
Sorry guys I haven’t checked this forum for a while. I painted the stick with patience. First I applied a coat of gray primer (cheap spraypaint from wal-mart), then I applied about three coats of white paint (same wal mart crap). Finally, I applied some polyurethane clearcoat which supposedly isn’t meant for white finishes due to its ambering properties. So far I’ve had no problems.
My only advice for painting these sticks is to do lots and lots of coats. The more the better. I didn’t sand anything nor did I remove the black coating. I may wish I had in the long run, but the stick looks fine at this point.
Edit: yea I painted the washer. Two coats of white spraypaint and no clearcoat.
Yes I do but I’ll have to mod it. Time has been scarce recently :tdown:
Ok, time for me to order from Himura again. this time, I need some buttons for my red octane case. My question is, will I need to make the case less thick to screw in the buttons, in addition to widening the holes for the buttons? the buttons on himura’s site seem like they are made for thin metal panels only.
thanks
If you get the Snap-in style buttons then you don’t need to make the case thinner, but you will need to find another way to secure the plexiglass since the buttons won’t be holding it down. Carriage bolts work well for holding the plexi down. If you get the screw-in type buttons you can get a thin piece of metal from Home Depot which you can use to make a mounting plate and mount the buttons using the same concept as what you use to top-mount a sanwa joystick. I actually prefer to use a 1/4" thick piece of MDF to use as a mounting plate rather than metal because I find it to be sturdier.
So basically, with your preferred method, I would be creating a small lip for the snap on buttons to grab/snap onto, right? so I should make the holes for the buttons slightly wider than the mounting plate made from MDF? I’m sure MDF is a lot easier to drill, and I can counter sink and drill the mounting bolts easier too. working with metal is a little intimidating for me, especially with borrowed tools.
I think with all the knowledge I’ve acquired here, I think I’m ready to build my own case. Seems like less work, which is the reason I bought those RO cases in the first place! Anyway, I’m glad to have a place to learn such things, thanks again.
Make the holes wider so the sanwa buttons fit in. The have to me 30 mm wide. YOU HAVE TO DO THIS FOR BOTH SANWA SCREW IN’S AND SNAP INS.
If you are using screw ins, then your next best bet is to thin out the wood from the bottom face till the wood is 1/4 in thick. No mounting plate is necessary unless you want to make one. All that you need to do now is install the buttons.
If you are using snap in buttons, then all you need to do is drill a slight depression on the side of the hole you just drilled (this being the hole the button is going in) on the underside of the panel to make room for the tabs on the push button. Dont go the whole why through when make room for the tabs. You want a depression not a hole.
Hope this helps.
The MDF and mounting plate is only if you use screw-in buttons. It is an alternative to thinning out the wood from the under side since it is hard to get a router into the box. You could use a dremel tool but that isn’t really what they were meant for and would be putting a lot of strain on it.
If you get snap-in buttons they are very very easy to mount. You just make a little tab for the wings to spread out and they will snap right onto the plexi-glass. Then you just drill 4 holes around the edges of the plexi-glass to secure it down with carriage bolts.
My instructions were for the red octane case without the plexi. Its an old old box.
OHHH that makes so much more sense to me now. That makes it about 100x easier than what I was thinking.
Edit:
I see what you are saying about the wings. Thanks for the advice.
Well, after it taking 4 weeks for me to get the RMA’d replacement (I posted about my problem in a previous post), I find that the replacement’s top left and bottom left joystick movements didn’t work. I was ticked off, but decided to just RMA it again since I wasn’t paying shipping anyways.
But it seems they rejected my request because they no longer make these anymore! Oh boy.
So I was wondering if this could be “easily” fixed myself? I recall from my previous posting that someone wanted me to take a picture of the insides but I don’t have a digital camera to do this. Maybe you could give me some suggestions to some common problems/solutions for my situation instead? Much appreciated!
Damn he’s right. The website has them out of stock and won’t let you backorder. RIP Red Octane Stick. Looks like the $20 sale was them basically cleaning out inventory.
I hope they start manufacturing again sometime soon. :tdown:
Ok, so I will be replacing the Plexi on my stick with a layer of MDF as spiffy mentioned above, and making 30mm holes to mount the snap-ins that I just got. I plan on top mounting the sanwa stick under the mdf, but on top of the case. One thing though, when I make the hole and the indention for the wings, should I drill from the top, or the bottom? It was said that I shouldn’t go all the way through.
Another question is about drilling. What kind of drill should I use? I was trying to decide between Forstner bits, spade bits and hole saws, but I don’t really know the difference as far as what would be best for drilling in these things.
Also, if you see any problems with this method I have outlined, please let me know, I haven’t really worked with these kinds of tools before. (but I intend to use them a lot once I get them)
You still selling any sticks? I’m intrested
Are you looking for a modded or unmodded stick? (or parts?)