Dug around at GameStop and found a copy of Frequency for $1. Also grabbed the MvC3 8"x10" preorder print for $2 at a Kmart clearance bin. Cashier rang it up even with the giant “not for sale separately” text.
Got a Hori VLX for $243.98
Got a copy of Duke Nukem Forever for $2.99 @ Best Buy. Not a game I wanted to ever really buy but for the price of a rental…why not?
Forgot about this one, didn’t need it at all after the VLX but for the price I just couldn’t ignore it .
It took me a while, but you convinced me. You’re suggestion and the fact that there was only 3 left as of yesterday on eBay. So I got one, and now they are all gone! Glad I got in when I did.
That’s mad good bidding! Lucky…!
Another SRK member wants $250 for his FF stick…
That is what they are worth it was a limited stick… Either he didn’t know how much it was worth or didn’t care.
You’d be surprised… I’ve seen some sellers wanting $500-$600 for those joysticks.
Not worth it… but what do you expect from Amazon.com marketplace??? Those sellers are generally worse than e-Bay gets most days.
Never buy things from the first place you check. Always look around first.
You scored well this time!
Just picked up a barely used Qanba Q4 Ice Red for $100. Whattup, Craigslist.
Got this in on Friday. $40 is a good deal on an unopened First Edtion Set for Yomi.
I almost had the urge to keep it in the wrapping… Almost.
I actually had a good time playing this game with a friend. Lost all my games, but still a good time.
is this garbage or worth modding?
Okay, determined to hunt one of these down now. Apparently Happ drops right in.
There was a large batch of NOS sold back in February. I need to be in the know!
http://segaage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=42&threadid=69443
I had never seen one before, it looked awesome, except the button layout.
I’m going to say NO…
It’s a mid-1990s joystick and that era is not known for having cases that are easy to mod… The problem is the height of the case. How you are you going to fit a joystick lever, let alone 30mm buttons, without contorting everything? Minimal clearance if that!
You might be able to maintain the case as-is and replace little things like the joystick lever spring, microswitches, and pivot, but the buttons are a different situation. Most of the joysticks from that era had rubber contact feet under the button plungers. The PCB actually registers “hits” on its opposite side when you push down on the buttons. (This is how most joypads’ buttons work to this day, too.) You can’t mod those buttons with modern microswitches… Switches just won’t fit under the plungers and the plungers were never made to “hold” the switch tabs that actually press down. You have to keep the buttons as is or gut them and make space for 30mm or 24mm arcade buttons IF they even fit in the existing spaces. The problem is that very often the existing casing won’t have the space for replacement buttons or can’t be modded even with cutting/grinding hardware (power drills, step-up cutters, Dremels, etc.).
That’s the problem with a lot of cheap joysticks… There’s stuff people are trying to sell for $30 that just isn’t worth it after you get it in the mail! Two of these designs are joysticks that I paid $15 or less for when they were brand-new and are definitely not worth attempting mods on. You have to size up joysticks or ask around sometimes to get people’s impressions and experiences working with the case mods and transplanting new arcade parts.
There are better joystick layout than that one from the 1990s – the Konami Hyper Stick, which is hard to find and seems to be Japanese/Asian-market only – it’s also the only 1990s-era joystick I’m aware of aside from custom-made MAS joysticks that has geniune (Seimitsu) arcade parts in it; and the Agetec Dreamcast “Green Goblin” Arcade Stick which is much easier to find but generally sells in the $40-$50 range and requires a lot of work to fit anything aside from the JLF in it… The Agetec is also one of the few joysticks with a casing that has decent internal clearance for most joystick levers and all 30mm Japanese plug-in/screw-in buttons after much plastic cutting/shaving.
Lots of people like the Namco Arcade Stick (“Yellow Goblin”) but they’re getting harder to find and usually start at $40 and go up in price for better condition. Again, it’s very shallow (low height) but people do like the case design and it’s a more compact joystick that’s easy to find PS1/PS2 converters for… and then there are up-and-comers that are getting more popular like the Capcom CPS joystick (Capcom Power Stick) which was SNES-era and could be used on the NES/SNES (with appropriate converter cable) and also had a Genesis counterpart. At least that joystick can be modded to fit 24mm arcade buttons. The 24mm buttons have the same switches as the 30mm buttons so they can be used for arcade punching and kicking and will last about as long as the 30mm buttons, too.
The good thing about the more popular-to-mod retro joysticks is that there are mod guides for virtually all of them on SRK… The bad thing is that you can’t get away from some plastic cutting on at least half of them and parts contortion on at least 2/3 of them.
I wouldn’t bother with it, it is more head aces that its worth
Yeah there was a bunch on eBay around that time. I think the seller found a bunch of NOS at Goodwill or something. He was selling them Buy It Now for like $100 and also “Make an offer”. It looked like he consistently sold them for around $80, at least that’s the counter offer price he gave me when I offered $50. I couldn’t justify buying one though; seeing as I hardly use the rest of the stuff I buy.
I’ll pick one up for modding if another pops up. The fact that it can take Happ and works on SNES/Genesis sounds fun. I love random crap.
YAY! This is a GBA holy grail for those not in the know (check eBay). It’s a Konami game that is Shinobi meets Bionic Commando. Very cool.
SCPH-1002 Playstation, the same model I first got for Christamas back in 1995. Sometimes refered to as the audiophile version, it’s sought after because of the RCA (component) outputs on the console and because it has many outputs that were removed from later models, it also has “Power” and “Open” written in English rather than the multilingual icons.
Just picked up a agetec and DC with couple games and two controllers for $76 on eBay