I just received a Cthulu PCB from Lizard Lick to replace my broken PCB in my Hori Real Arcade Pro 3.
Upon opening up and looking at the Hori PCB I noticed some things I have questions about.
Can you brad the two wires that are connected to a single Sanwa button and put it in a single hole of the Cthulu PCB that would be dedicated to a button like (Square, Triangle, etc…)
I noticed that the USB connection going into the Hori PCB are these 5 wires (1 red, 1 green, 1 white, and 2 black) that are connected to a white connector that is connected to the Hori PCB. The Cthulu PCB has a normal USB plug hole; how do you go about connecting it? Do I need to buy either a USB plug and wire it up to those 5 wires or get an entirely new USB cord?
All in all I basically just want to know how I’d go about wiring up the Cthulu PCB to my HRAP3 before I go ripping off the wires from the Hori PCB.
Here are some pics of the Hori PCB and the Assembled Cthulu PCB.
Err, kinda. One of the two wires going to each button will go the screw terminal. THe other wire from each button needs bundled up with the other common lines ( barrier strip maybe easiest?) which will then go as one wire to one of the GND screw terminals.
You can solder it to the cthulhu if you’d like. Red -> V column, Black(s)->G column, white->D column, green -> E column.
I kinda understand what you mean about your answer to question one but what I’m a little fuzzy about is: I have 10 buttons in total, what do you mean by bundling up the “common lines” to attach to a single ground screw terminals? Like do I take all the second wires from all the buttons, bundle them, and then attach them to a single ground screw terminal?
Okay great. Now is there any particular groud terminal hole I should put them all in or any will do?
Also, if I don’t choose to soder the USB cord into the pcb, can I buy the same length cord of my original USB cord but with the proper plug and just plug it into the pcb’s USB port?
Sure, and if you’d prefer to avoid soldering, that’s the way to. The main reason to solder in the existing cable is because of the pull-stop on the case and the fact that it looks all nice and flush. Using your own cord will be pretty safe from tugging if you wind it through those posts on the bottom, but won’t look quite as flush from the outside where it comes out.
Not a hrap, but here is a visual of tying all the grounds together into the CTHULHU. You don’t have to use the intermediate terminals and you can just link them all straight to the PCB, but it does make it a lot neater if you do and if you decide to replace the buttons or anything, you don’t have to mess with the actual PCB and can just disconnect from the terminals. You also don’t have to seperate the grounds, but since the CTHULHU has 4 grounds, I decided I’d isolate the front buttons, the stick, and the face buttons. Should give you an idea of what you need to do.
