So I was just about to be complete with wiring up my pad, then I pulled a pad - and then a second pad. 
Does anyone happen to know where the PS button routs to - either an IC pin, trace, or something that I can solder to? It appears that I can recover the cross button, at-least according to this diagram that I found @ https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43542.0.html .
Any help or info would be greatly appreciated. 
Any particular reason for not using a Hori Fighting Commander? It’s a lot easier.
I have two Hori MKX fightpads done-up and wired to sticks, which are basically the same thing thing as the fighting commander, and they work great! I have two DS4 PC boards that I wanted to put to use, and seeing as they haven’t a proper case to fit in - it feels like an interesting project. If I end up not using them, they should sell pretty easily on here if they’re already wired up for an easy install.
I was able to remove a little more silk screen and carefully expose two VIAs, which enabled me to solder my leads directly to them. =)
Thanks,
There is a reason even the Gurus gave up on the Dual Shock 4.
1.The amount of skill and difficulty for Pad hacking the DS4 is quite high and 3rd party PCBs are much easier.
Sony often revise their hardware, so even if I find a solution for one revision it does not mean it can help every case.
We already seeing one major change to the PCB layout.
Those VIAs are harder to solder to and are more delicate than the solder pads you pulled.
Someone did a pinout for the JDM-030 here. Dual Shock 4 PadHack Thread - aka you should padhack the hfc4 pad instead
All the PS4 padhacks I’ve done and I still haven’t ran across a 030 yet.
I know, they couldn’t find everything and I pointed out a few things.
Still isn’t worth the effort.
Thanks for the link and info - but that’s kind of self explanatory if you trace the leads on the plastic pieces to the pads on the PC board. I was hoping to find where the pads from the PC board went to, so that I could have a secondary solder point. I was able to correct the issue, so I don’t need it - but someone else, in the future, might zombify this thread and greatly appreciate the extra info.
Thanks!
You should do it yourself and let us know. Just get out your multimeter and start checking.
It’s what I would do if I was in your situation and needed to.
You aren’t going to find the diagram you want unless you do it yourself. Like Dark said, hardly anyone is doing DS4 padhacks, I think I might be the only person still offering them and I haven’t done them in a long time.
You can go back to acidmods and pm RDC. He can help u out with just about anything u need. He does all the pcb scans that u see in acidmods! If your not a member there I can activate u an account real fast as I’m a admin in that site. Also he sells flexboard remap kits real cheep and those can theroretically be used to make eaisier solder conections to the vias of the ds3 controller.
I used to be a PC board fabricator, and one of the machines that I operated was an X-ray machine, similar to this - http://www.pluritec.com/inspecta_l_hpl.htm . It was used for verifying drill hits, VIAs, and alignment of circuitry. I could easily expose individual circuits in multi-layer PC boards, even 16 layer NASA boards which had traces 4 mils thick! The damn thing didn’t use a standard Windows API for image broadcast, so there was no ability to screen capture anything. If I ever take a part-time job working in a shop like that again, you bet your ass that I’d scan in -everything- that I could so that we’d have some really great data to work from. And in case you’re wondering, it can also expose ICs just as easily - which is pretty cool. Just for a gag though, we tried to expose some packs of Magic: The gathering, and while we couldn’t produce anything worthwhile as far as trying to read cards without opening the packs, we could easily spot foils 100% of the time.
I got my DS4 board up and running though, btw. It feels faster than my MKX pad in Street Fighter V - but I should link some buttons between the two, just to see if one is out-putting better than the other. I really want to use it in one of my cases, but it has metal plates on the top and bottom, and I fear that it’s going to affect its Bluetooth capability.
Thanks agian!
Completed JDM-030, just in case ya wana see.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll100/adlorin/WP_20160714_17_27_06_Pro1.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll100/adlorin/216163e8-b090-47e1-9573-aa96078dd548.jpg
This was my first time to use hot-glue, as I always thought that it looked sloppy. Sloppy, for sure, but I don’t fear loosing a pad or trace this way. If you’re wondering where the inverter is, there isn’t one - it’s entirely unnecessary. I bridged an 8K resistor between the common leads to the trigger buttons, as it’s done by the OEM circuitry, and it works very well!
