I was a noob because this was over 4 years ago and I was super tired, so the entire issue was as wrong side of terminal. I look back on this now in 2014 and laugh and cry at the same time. Spoiler for my noobness.
[details=Spoiler]Sup guys, I need a bit of SRK help/love.
I’m attempting to dual mod a PS3 Madcatz SE stick with a PSX Digital Controller Version M
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After all was said and done, I tested the stick with PS3 and had no issues but when testing with PS1 I wouldn’t get any signal at all other than an automatic Start button press when placing the controller into the port.
Steps I took -
1 - Connecting grounds and power to both PCBs -
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2 - Connecting PSX signals to signal terminal (I used the insert wire thru plastic quick connect cover and solder to quick connect terminal method)
I also tested the connections from PCB to tip of quick connect with a digital multimeter.
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I haven’t bothered wiring the stick yet as I wanted to confirm the button signals were working first.
I’ve been doing a few tests and I’ve gotta be missing something small.
Jumped into 3rd strike and when I had first plugged in the dual mod stick I noticed the screen went black. When unplugging it, it went back to the title menu. Which meant the Start and Select buttons were being pressed at the same time.
I unsoldered the Start and Select buttons from the PSX pad and plugged it back in and went into VS mode to test some more.
I found that if I unplugged a quick connect button from the quick connect board and made quick taps from the quick connect to the male end on the board it would do a move but if I tapped the actual button it wouldn’t do anything.
Damnit I know I’m missing something small and stupid, but I’m too tired to recognize what I’m screwing up.
I noticed that you wired the ground to the buttons section instead of the usb cable section.
Is this acceptable?
I never done a dual mod that way before.
Logically I guess it should work if the pcb is common ground. If anyone can clarify that would be great.
yeah it works, if its common ground you can tap any signal you want
this mod should work if you’re doing what you think you did
just to be sure, test connectivity between 5v and ground to make sure you didn’t accidentally bridge the two.
Also since you’re using the terminal block, make sure you’re not using the side for ground. That would make sense because you’re apparently tapping both start and select at once and you can execute the move by tapping it with the disconnect. Tell me if when you use the multimeter and tap the ps1 signal wires and ground to see if they’re being grounded.
For now, I just unsoldered the Start and Select wires on the PSX pcb. Once I get the others working correctly I can resolder them back on.
That’s correct.
I know I have them soldered correctly together (both grounds and both powers) and I even tested with multimeter to confirm that I wasn’t getting a connection from ground to power on the PSX controller.
I might have botched one of the PSX to quick disconnect soldering jobs, but there’s no way in hell I would have botched all of them. Not to mention, when I unplug the quick disconnect from the terminal and tap the female (quick disconnect) to the male (terminal) it confirms a button press on 3rd strike.
It seems as if the pcb I’m using isn’t common ground and I’m getting a consistant button press from everything (which would explain the Start and Select game reset) but I was under the assumption that both of the PSX digital pads (I’m using the PSX M) were common ground and that it didn’t matter which ground I used.
I also scratched the pcb to reveal copper from another part of the pcb (left of the digital directional pad) and did a multimeter test to confirm the same ground was moving to that side of the board and it confirmed it no problem.
I assume you’re talking about the PS3 pcb, and yes that is essentially what I did.
As you stated, if it’s all common ground, I don’t see why it would cause me any issue, but I can attempt to connect the ground to the USB ground instead of the button ground and I’ll respond with how it worked out. I could see that as my issue and I hope it is since it’d be such an easy fix.
As stated earlier in this response, I did test the ground and voltage with a multimeter to confirm that they weren’t connected but that was my first troubleshooting issue.
As for using the ground side of the terminal block, I thought of that during prep and during my initial issues, but when I looked at other modder’s photos of their terminals I thought I was getting the correct side. I could have gotten what people refer to bottom (ground) top (signal) wrong because they have a TE stick (I’m using an SE) and I believe on the TE the terminal is rotated and is above the button placement (or roughly along the top row of buttons) and on the SE the terminal is below the buttons.
Thanks for the helpful advice gentlemen (and possibly ladies). I got a good night’s sleep since last night, I’ll be sure to check the issues and post again in the next hour or so.
-FrankCastleAZ
EDIT - Yeah I was a total nub and had the quick disconnects put in the opposite sides of the terminal. Tired as all hell. Should have gone to bed hours ago.
–FRIENDS DONT LET FRIENDS MOD STICKS WHEN TIRED–
Its usually not about what other modders do in their photos. I’ve done the exact same modding using a digital pcb for a PS3 TE using the terminal block. You always should test it yourself which side is signal and which side is ground on the terminal block.
The fact that none of the buttons are registering unless you tap the disconnect and won’t register again when you tap the button is a sure fire signal that all buttons are firing at the same time. I’m about 99% sure that your problem is the wiring that’s soldered to the terminal block is on the wrong side.
And also the terminal blocks are standard. There is no rotation at all whatsoever between TE and SE. I’ve done this mod on both models and they’re the exact same orientation.
