I got a Madcatz SF4 S series stick for Tekken 6, and just got 7 on Steam. On both my computers, when I plug the stick in, it shows up in devices, but when I go into calibrate, it’s not picking up any inputs. The stick isn’t broken, it still works fine on my PS3. I tried the S series driver from the Madcatz site, but when I run the installer, it asks me to plug in the stick, and even unplugging and re-plugging doesn’t work.
Some of the ps3 Madcatz sticks don’t play nice with certain chipsets. The cheapest fix would be to install a zero delay PC/PS3 encoder: https://www.focusattack.com/ps3-pc-zero-delay-usb-encoder-pcb-japan-style-controls/
Some people have reported that using a USB hub solved the issue, which makes no sense to me, but it’s worth a shot if you already have one lying around.
I have an Intel i7-6700HQ processor. Used a USB hub, no difference.
Do you know of a guide I could use to help me install such an encoder? I’m not a hardware guy.
That one’s about as plug and play it gets. Each button gets a signal and a ground (buttons as they relate to the PS3 inputs are listed on the link I provided), the lever gets connected with a 5 pin harness (rotate the jlf PCB so that the pins point downward, flip the harness if only one direction works). The PCB is labeled and the jst connecters only go one way. Doing this stuff for the first time can be intimidating, but believe me when I say it’s as easy as assembling Legos in this case.
At this point, unless you got a good deal on the stick and planing to gut out all the old parts don’t get a Mad Catz stick.
Well, madcatz is what I’ve got, and I can’t afford to buy a new stick, so the modding option is the one that fits my budget. Already dumped $50 on Tekken.
Will I still be able to use my stick on PS3, or will I have to rewire it every time I want to switch?
That PCB works on ps3, though it lacks a home button.
Thanks for all your help!
Still shrilling for the Zero delay PCB I see.
It’s cheap, it’s simple, and it works for what this guy wants. It’s a much better choice for his stated wants/needs than the $90 (plus the cost of wiring) UFB you normally push.
I don’t push anything.
Easy boyz.
Alright, I have the kit. Went to open my fightstick case and it won’t open… I took the top allen screws off and the bottom philips screws, and the top won’t budge. The bottom does give a bit and I can just barely see inside, but I don’t want to force it open and break something.
EDIT: Okay, it was just an adhesive. My next major problem is getting the 5-pin connector off the stick, as it seems to be glued in.
Use a small screwdriver or knife to remove the red glue.
Everything’s connected inside the stick, the 5-pin connector to the stick is really short, so when I close the case it presses together near the base of the stick. I held it back with some tape so it won’t interfere with stick movement.
The back compartment for the original USB cable was a beast, they threaded it through a hole exactly as big around as the cable, so I had to cut the cable near the USB connector and completely remove the case to run the new USB cable out the back. I also didn’t bother wiring the home/turbo/etc panel, so now there’s a giant hole in the back, and a smaller hole on the top of the case.
HOWEVER… it still won’t run on either of my computers. When I plug it in…
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On my desktop, which uses a USB hub, the Windows “device connected” and “device disconnected” noises play over and over. The device window shows the controller appearing and disappearing. When it stays connected for a moment, I go into settings to see the test readout, and after doing one input, an error happens and the device disconnects.
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On my laptop, Windows just tells me “power surge, unknown USB device asking for more power than the port can provide.”
EDIT: Okay, the USB cord shifted and it’s staying connected to my desktop for now. All inputs work except the left, right, and down on the stick.
I don’t even know what to make of this. When I connect the 5-pin from the stick to the board one way, down goes up, and right left up do nothing. When I connect it the other way, it does inverted controls. (r = l, u = d)
Remove the restrictor plate from the jlf and rotate it so that the directions are correct.
Alright, I think this project is just about done for now. The “power surge” problem on laptop also disappeared when the USB cable shifted, so I think it was just that a wire was pinched, or maybe the reversed 5-pin was causing some funny business, out of my depth there.
Tekken 7 is kinda moody about recognizing USB gamepads, but that’s nothing new and it’s not a hardware issue. I guess what I want to do now is take the cord storage compartment to someone I know who can drill the hole wider, then reinstall that and the home/turbo panel and stuff something in the USB cord hole so it’s not in danger of being yanked off the circuit board.
Thanks for all your help and quick responses, saved me from getting a much bigger headache than I ended up getting! They shipped me this stick with at least three stripped screws and I swear they must have molded that cord storage compartment around the USB cord. Now for some ibuprofen and GAMES.
Glad I could help. If there are a series of posts inside the stick, you can wrap the cable some them in a way that keeps the strain off the PCB. Using zip ties to make a ghetto grommet is also an option. You can put the turbo panel back in and just leave it disconnected.
I haven’t bought Tekken 7 yet, what’s the issue with it?
The mapper doesn’t let you set an analog stick onto the dpad controls, so you have to do all your menuing with keyboard, and sometimes there’s a bug in online sessions where you’re unable to accept matches. I’ve been able to work around it sometimes by unplugging my input device for a moment, then plugging it back in for the match. Not an ideal solution though, hopefully it’s patched soon.