In the past I used a ps1 dual shock controller connected via neo-geo extension cable to a pad-hacked wired common ground xbox 360 controller for an input-lag free experience. I was perfectly happy using it until I noticed I was getting a huge callous on one of my fingers from holding the tiny controller in my large hands. After digging through some old video game stuff I came across a potential solution:
The dual analog controller (DAP) is large enough to fit comfortably in my large hands. I verified it still works on my ps1 so I dug out my old ps3 pelican and xtokki 360 adapter to see if I could use it without modding. Unfortunately, it did not work with the adapters so I believe I am left with modding if I want to use it on a modern console.
After much thought, here are some of the options available to me.
Since the neogeo extension cable on my 360 padhack project acts a quick disconnect, I can solder another extension cable to the DAP and use it on the hacked pad
1a. remove suface mount components, break traces, ensure the ground is common, solder to all button leads and effectively turn the DAP into a large switch
1b. remove a button membrane from a dual shock controller and install that on the surface of the DAP controller, then soldering the neogeo cable to the membrane interface connector (like I did on my original ps1 padhack)
1c. use a joytron paewang board to make my own multi-console adapter in place of the common ground 360 ontroller.
find an adapter/converter that accepts the signal from the DAP and works as intended
swap the DAP guts out with a ps1 dual shock and use my already existing ps3/360 converters
I rather put the pcb’s inside the pad as I dislike the project box method for modding pads. Though depending on what systems you want to keep it compatible with you might be forced to stick with the project box.
The project boxes seem to get complicated, too. The pin-outs you have to remember and then flipping/reverse-mirroring those pin-outs on the other side of the connection(!). IMHO, it just gets to be a big headache unless you have no other way of accomplishing a mod job.
I thought about using a project box to save some cash with a universal PCB but I felt the project box over-complicated the wiring issues and frankly I don’t like the idea of soldering to DB-15’s, let alone DB-25’s. I’ve had enough issues (re: cheap soldering irons) attaching 8 wires to MC Cthulu’s and would not look forward to soldering 15 and more wires to a pin-out adapter. The PCB creators like Toodles did everybody a huge favor as it is with the screw terminals he put on for directional signals and buttons.
Project boxes also don’t really save that much money initially. I figured for the price of doing two project boxes, I could buy three copies of the PCB I wanted to use and install those in as many joystick cases. I’d have to have at least 6 free/{PCB-less joystick cases to make it worth my while to do a project box. The problem with the project box is if you try to sell to a new owner. It’s easier to sell a joystick that has an internal PCB than one without. It’s very easy to confuse people with the concept of project boxes and they probably won’t like not having an internal PCB in a modded joystick. Most of the people on SRK are not electricians,engineers, or really motivated to dig deeper into modding and learn how to do things for themselves. It’s less a money issue and more the fact that people are frightened and afraid they’ll break things or they were honestly raised to be reliant on other people for everything.
The only reason I would use a Project Box for pad is if you’re trying to transplant a PCB that just won’t fit in the shell of the new pad. I don’t know how to do this but I would think that then you would have to keep at least part of the original PCB in place (traces cut or not, I don’t know – Gummo or someone else with a lot more electrical experience than me can tell you this), somewhat modded, and with connections going out to the project box. The original PCB might be needed to keep your buttons in place… Definitely need it for the directional d-pad for sure. A lot of these PCB’s operate on pressure contact pads and not necessarily direct wiring like modern joysticks.
FYI, word of advice… When discussing PCB issues with other people – especially the electricians here – it always helps to post pictures of the PCB in question. Make sure that the images are clear and that they can see the wire tracing. That helps them pass advice on to you on what you may want or need to do for a mod project.
Reason you want everything self contained.
Fewer parts/pieces.
Fewer contacts and moving parts to wear out
Reasons for Project Box
Keeping a particular stick close to stock as possible (collectors item?)
Modular design leaves room for expansion without modifying the existing stick/pad
That the stick/pad is by default a connector that is flexible with a wide range of devices or adapters, like a Neo Geo controller (DB 15)