I just did the layout you suggested but I’m unable to hit up-left half of the time. I’m able to hit it if I wiggle the stick in that radius. Is this something you’ve experienced yourself?
@ZonbiPanda I’m not really a Heihachi guy but I’ll definitely give it a shot.
No sir. Just adjust that direction a degree or 2 till it hits every time.
@Accel I have one of the Magenta beta sticks with the white 3d printed base and the setup I posted requires you to ride the gate to hit that diagonal. That’s the point! The final version of Magenta with the black base has a more polished square gate than my white 3d printed base which is starting to show some wear. I really should upgrade my TE2 with the latest version.
As @butteroj said, adjust your diagonal a sliders a bit until you hit the activation zone. The whole point of having a near infinitely adjustable stick is that you can customize it for you play and not be stuck with a one size fits all stick. 
Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback as always. Sorry for the questions that have seemingly easy answers!
Kinda cross posting here but Paradise Arcade will have a couple of the Magenta Siren on display at Combo Breaker this weekend. If you’re at the show, stop by and check it out.
For anyone curious about installing the Magenta in a Razer Panthera and powering it from the default board. You can use the AUX pins next to the USB cord. There are 5 prongs. You will need to place the red wire on prong 1 and the black wire on prong 4 as shown in the image below.
Note: This image show the wires being soldered on but it is not required. You can use the JST connector that comes with the Magenta, but you have to remove the individual headers. You just have to push the little plastic tabs up on the JST connector and then pull out the individual headers. You can then slide these right over the prongs. It holds pretty well but if you are concerned about it coming lose you can set them with some hot glue.
Hey, not to beat you up to bad on the soldering but those solder joints don’t look very healthy. I would recommend using some flux and tinning both the pins and wires separately before soldering the two together.
Get some heat shrink tubing and slide it over the connected wire and pin to ensure nothing shorts too. If you don’t have the tubing than any insulator, even masking tape, would be beneficial as a temporary fix. You really don’t want the wires snapping off and causing a short if they touch another pin.
Otherwise, nice job on locating the +5V and GND on the Panthera. Maybe Paradise can build up some cable and offer them for sale???
Not my soldering. Paradise sent me those pics. I just posted them here for reference.
Was thinking of getting the Qanba obsidian. Any extra steps to get Magenta working with it?
Yeah, the Obsidian’s LEDs use 2-pin connectors and the Magenta comes with a 3-pin connector that goes from the Magenta to the stick’s PCB. You have to remove one of those 2-pin connectors and use it to replace the 3-pin connector that the Magenta comes with. It’s not too hard, you just have to be careful with it.
I thought that was for the dragon?
I have an obsidian and can post pics tomorrow if no one else has already.
You need to do it for the Obsidian as well. That’s how I got mine working.
I believe @armi0024 has already made mention that there are different wire harnesses to come out for different boards like the UFB, should I just strip the ends of wire on the included harness that would normally attach the the Madcatz PCB?
Which MadCatz controller?
Also, I hear Paradise is doing Magenta installs at Combo Breaker. Kinda doubt you’re reading this if you are at the tournament but they know where to find power on the various fightsticks.
The TE2 and TE2+ series
