Okay, last night I started testing the charging of a 18650 lithium ion cell with the sixaxis. I checked the current and it was a constant 355mA the whole time. I stopped charging when the cell got to 4.05 V. I stopped because it was late and I wanted to go to bed. I didn’t want to leave it charging unattended for safety reasons. I’ll continue testing today after work.
Just compare the cost of 1 transistor and resistor to the cost of 1 optocoupler and you got your answer.
what board is that?..and where can you get it?
Okay, finished testing the charging and no batteries exploded! Found out that the sixaxis will stop charging when the cell reaches 4.20v (just like the back of the battery says >.>). So the max1811 circuit is now optional. The guide/home button will have to be put on a switch if charging through the sixaxis.
It should be noted that the circuit for the max1811 I have in the guide is set to max charge current of 100ma and max charge voltage of 4.1v. Set pin one of the max1811 high to make the max charge 4.2v and set pin two high to make the max current 500ma.
Thank you scarboy for your questioning. Made me actually learn a few things. The whole max1811 thing isn’t a complete waste of my time though. I can still apply the lith ion charger with other projects.
Its a shame I don’t have a ps3 because I have around 70 broken sixaxis boards (and around 50 functioning ones) and I noticed that some of them will power on if connected to a battery, but will not power on through usb. Maybe they can still be useful with the max1811 circuit to charge the cell?
Is there a way to add the LED mod to a sixaxis only arcade stick with wireless and use the same battery? or would the battery explode in doing so? because looking at the specs of the LED, it requires 20mA forward voltage for 3.2-3.4V, and the PS3 battery only has 610mAh from what I see, so doesnt look like it would last very long if I were to use it alot
It can be done, but I would suggest using a lithium ion cell with more capacity. The 18650 series I’m using are around 2200mAh.
Well I plan to use the sixaxis to maintain wireless and plug and play, but I’m not sure how you can change the battery as it uses a little connector thats connected to the PCB
You could solder wires to the + and - ends of the new cell to the pins of the connector on the board. Or cut the connector from the battery and solder it to the new cell. Or if you have an 360 controller, you can take the motor out of it and take its connector off of that.
Awesome work Gummowned…just a quick EE question. How does your mod make a non-common ground pcb to common ground…I understand how transistors and resistors work, just want to understand the concept of your circuit if you don’t mind. I’m studying electronics so don’t be afraid to use the lingo 
Basically, I’m using the transistors as a switch for each button.
If you’re looking for a more detailed answer then I’m sorry. I’m no EE grad or anything, I just do electronics as a hobby. Check out http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm#pnp for more info since this is kinda where I based it around.
Thats cool, Thx!!!
Hey Gummowned. Just discovered this thread. very impressive work!!
I’ve been waiting for an elegant wireless dual PCB with button press light up product, along the lines of your most impressive hex inverter / axisdapter mods. I had to take things into my own hands since there was nothing out there. I would love to see what you come up with!
Nice mod!
I’ll surely bookmark this up and once I get the time to do the dual wireless, I’ll be asking you a lot of questions 
I’ve started toying around with designing a custom pcb for the dual wireless mod. Is there any interest out there for such a board? I’m planning on using surface mount components to keep the board small. A ribbon connector to easily connect the sixaxis board, like the axisadaptor. A PIC to do switchless system selection like the imp board.
I could also sell some sixaxis boards and batteries along with it cheaply.
if its reasonably priced i would be interested, how far out would you be from production
Nice work Gummowned
what do you mean by D- pin and D+ pin & by + battery pin on the Xbox 360 board do you mean on the springy long thing on the side of the mic plug or the one that use the charge kit?
I just started drawing board designs yesterday, so production won’t be til a month. I still need to write the program for the PIC.
I have the idea to make it so that in order to use the stick, you’ll have to first plug it in so that it can sync to the system first. Then after that you can either leave it in, or unplug the usb and play wireless. Otherwise if you try to turn it on without first plugging it into the system, it will reset the sync (ie, act like you are holding the sync button on the controller down). The idea is to make it tournament safe, so that even if you accidentally turn on your stick, it won’t interrupt the last system you were playing on. This sound ok?
D- and D+ are the data lines of USB. The D- and D+ wires from the usb cord will be soldered to the middle pins of the DPDT switch. Then you wire the left and right pins of the DPDT switch to the D- and D+ spots on the 360 and ps3 controller.
And yes, the + battery pin on the 360 I was referring to is the location that the springy thing is located at.
im down for these boards if you make them, heck ill buy any prototypes that you have. the only thing is i would actually rather work with a switch
to be honest i wouldnt need the the ability for it not to remember the last system but im sure others would so that is a good idea. just so i have an idea i would need the sixaxis pad the 360 pad, and then the board your working on correct. would i still need a sixaxis adapter or would your board include those components ?? also how will it handle having 2 batteries or would it bring it down to 1 to share.
I’d be willing to pick up a pair to play around with if they’re relatively inexpensive.