Problem with Custom PS4 Hitbox (Brooks Fightboard PS3/PS4)

Tech Talk
1

Hey guys, i recently bought a custom PS4 hitbox and i’m currently having trouble getting it to work properly. Currently all the buttons are working as intended except 1K and 2K, whenever i press these button they register both 1k+2k simultaneously
Pressing 1k=1k+2k
Pressing 2k=1k+2k
This is the case when even when i force switch between the PS3/PS4 and PC modes.

[Album] PS4 Hitbox

Is a pictures of the pcb and the build itself. In the 3rd picture I have circled both 1K and 2K board spots and have noted that there is a smidge of solder conjoining these two inputs. Could this potentially be causing the issue? or could this be a software issue.

Couple tidbits
-I’m on playing on PC
-Checked the inputs via the windows joystick calibrator.

Cheers for reading.

2

My phone isn’t pulling up the photos, but it sounds like solder bridge between the two inputs (confirmed by your description of the photo)

You need to remove that bridge so they both register independently.

Do you have any soldering equipment?

3

You should talk to the builder about having them get rid of the solder bridge (assuming that you paid for a complete stick and you didn’t just buy a case and installed everything yourself). If a customer of mine had the same issue I’d fix it free of charge asap.

4

I don’t but I could talk to some of my uni mates and ask if I could use some of their equipment.

The main problem is I might have to pay exorbitant shipping costs as I bought the stick from Germany and i’m in Australia. I’ll have to ask arcadeforge if they would be willing to cover the shipping. If not it may be cheaper if I get it fixed locally.

5

Definitely contact the builder like BolSadguy said to see if they’ll help you out first, as that would be the easiest solution.

In the event that the builder can’t help

Never try to “pick” it off while cold… you can pull up traces doing that.

If your friends have soldering equipment and have used it before, they can probably remove the bridge for you in just a few minutes. You may want to ask them before trying yourself.

If doing it yourself, you can typically get the solder hot again and move the puddles back to their traces fairly quickly as it doesn’t like to stick to the resin on the board.

I like to use a solder sucker and re solder the joints after. There are videos on how to do this online.

6

Yeah man, i’ll be contacting a builder first in my area. Last resort i’ll fix it myself. Thanks for the soldering advice I’ve got some Flux lying around somewhere not too sure if i would need it for this though.

7

The soldering looks weird. Why didnt he solder through the holes? The wire at l2 seems to touch that t28(?) alternatetive point aswell. Look at the top left of the second/third pic.
Anyway. Arcadeforge is a european webshop so theyre obliged to take it back and cover the shipping. This isnt even a question of waranty witch is 1-2 years in most european countries. Its a manufacturing error. Did you have to break any seal to get to the inside? I know its alot of hassle, but frankly, he charges alot for those sticks, the least he could do is test them and check his soldering before shipping it halfway around the world.

8

That’s good to hear that they will cover it, i didn’t break any seals getting to the innards.

9

I’ll get in contact with them again.

10

Edit: Messed up post

11

As I said to you in the other thread, test it out on console first.

12

Got to try it out on a PS4 today and the problem persisted. Any thoughts? Would that suggest the problem is the solder bridge rather than a software issue

13

This looks like a really BAD custom job. No wire management. Tape holding down some stuff. Ridiculous. I wouldn’t order from them again if I were u.

14

Imo yes, the problem is with the soldering. Did he contact you? Also did you pay with Visa or Paypal. They have pretty good buyer protection.

15

Yeah man i probably won’t order from them again.

They did contact me but only gave me the model of the pcb and a link to the brook website which I clearly knew from my email lol. I ended up fixing up the soldering job myself. I think i’ll use this situation as an opportunity to learn more about making/modding sticks. Does anyone know the proper(safe way) to disconnect the wiring from the buttons I want too fix the cluster fuck of the cabling also.

16

They used .110 quick disconnects in your case, so you SHOULD be able to pry each one off each terminal without much force. If you can’t pull them off easily try wiggling + pulling at the same time to get them off. Worst case use pliers and be gentle. As long as you don’t tug too hard on any soldered connections between wire and PCB you won’t tear anything.

If you do end up tearing off a contact by accident, you’ll need to find an alternative point to resolder that wire to. On larger PCBs you can usually follow the signal trace, scrape off some green and then solder to the exposed copper, but that brook board is too tiny for that, so you might have to solder to the appropriate point on the 20 pin header.