Got a hayabusa stick with a strange problem that annoys me and i’m not sure if it’s normal or not. Rather than describing it, i’ve made a gif: https://imgur.com/a/ycLyu See how the shaft goes upwards 1mm if i apply pressure in one direction (and touching the gate)? It lifts the whole shaft, pivot and all, and i’m not even pressing that hard. Isn’t this the “pivot problem” LS-32s have? Is it fixable or should i buy something else?
This is my first quality stick i bought, so i don’t have experience with others, only from what i’ve read (here and on slagcoin). Did the early hayabusas had problems? I bought this back in 2015, but it’s never been used until now.
I also have a 2lb JLF spring and it alleviates somehow the lifting problem in the hayabusa, but not enough.
Anyway, this issue aside, i have a couple of questions:
It’s been a couple of years since the hayabusa is on the market. How are the plastics holding up after prolonged usage? Especially the pivot i’m interested in.
The 2lb JLF spring is very nice, but a bit heavy, too tiring (i use my finger tips to move the ball, not the whole arm, as i’ve seen some do). Are Seimitsu springs compatible (thinking of trying a ls56 spring)? The default hayabusa one is too light for my liking.
The engage distance is fine, but don’t like the very long throw. I have a 1mm Kowal actuator that i’ve tried (after some sanding, to make it work with the default gate), but it doesn’t have the same shape as the default one and i feel the throw could be even smaller. Are there any other oversized actuators that i could try, without reducing the engage distance any further?
I’m not afraid of mods and i know how to use a dremel. What’s the consensus on using levered switches in it? I found the included ones a bit loud, was thinking of replacing them with ones that are quieter (but not completely silent, i like my clicks). I know levers don’t have anything to do with noise, but since i’m considering swapping them… Are there any benefits for using ones with levers (like Seimitsu use or the silent JLF)? What levered switches are compatible with the hayabusa?
If i buy a heavier aluminium ball, should i increase the spring heaviness, to compensate?
Shorter, compatible, JLF shafts exists? I’m thinking this would be one way to reduce the throw and experiment.
From that GIF, I can tell you are putting to much force and lifting that stick.
as for your other question, I’ve had the Hayabusa since it’s release and I’m still using all the original parts except I put in a new spring because the old one is loose after all these years. The plastics is fine.
I’m not putting much pressure, but it might be the way i use the ball with the fingers, i tend to lift it when at max angle and hitting the gate. Combined with the light spring in hayabusa, it lifts a bit. So… i guess this is normal for any stick?
May be beneficial to try a silent JLF for you. It seems too much modding that a simple stick replacement would suffice. A lot of people do not like the Hayabusa because of its long throw (which is odd because the Hayabusa buttons are quicker response to Sanwa in some cases). I think you may be better off with a JLF and if you need a different actuator or spring they are readily available for that stick. As for the ball top I’m not sure if it will cause any major difference as for needing another spring.
I’m not sure if i would like the absence of audible feedback in the silent JLF. It’s also pretty expensive… How’s the throw on it, compared to the shortest of Seimitsus (was it the LS40 or the LS56? can’t remember)? I’ll be using mostly for shmups and other old games, but i also want to use it for the new Soul Calibur game that’s coming later this year. I’m pretty casual, though.
Oh if you are playing shmups, I would not use the Hayabusa at all. It’s terrible at stock parts for shmups and I would recommend just getting a Seimitsu stick. I personally use the LS-40 for both shmups and FGs. My hayabusa is exclusively for FGs in my Panzer 3 stick.
Well, i know, but with some mods i’ve read it gets pretty close to the LS-40, and since i already have it and it’s brand new… And besides, i really enjoy how smooth the hayabusa pivot is, it’s like on air. Also, the LS-40 doesn’t have an octogate. Not crucial, but i would like to have the option for it.
My bad I read that you wanted it silent lol. I mean a standard JLF might suite you. Especially if you want an octagonal option. If you want to mod the Hayabusa is harder as there are less options for it and there is possibility of messing it up. If you don’t like it that much buy another stick and sell the Hayabusa stick used to counteract cost.
Hayabusa works pretty well with an oversized actuator in my experience. Levered switches would decrease the engage distance, too. Any JLF (or clone) can be improved in that regard - MON used a modified JLF.
The only pivoting issues I’ve had is when the metal washer detached in my first Hayabusa. That just looks like the gate is being ridden too hard.
Since i can’t make up my mind, i’ve placed an order for the LS-56 and LS-40 sticks, with a bunch of springs, one octo gate and the Kowal Short Throw Mod for the 56. I’ve decided it’s not worth modding the Hayabusa, past the 2lb spring and Kowal 1mm actuator i’ve already tested. I’ll see how they feel compared to the modded hayabusa, i’ll settle for one and sell the rest. It’s an inconvenience, but it’s the only way to be sure and have peace of mind.
The only one that i would still want to try is the discontinued Sanwa JLW-TM-8… maybe i’ll buy one after i’m done testing the Seimitsus and if i’m still not satisfied.
Yes, but it also requires just a tiny bit of upward force to do this, like 10 degrees from horizontal. You’re right that if i apply the same amount of force perfectly horizontally it doesn’t react. I think with a stronger spring (1.5lb?) and a more careful technique this will be a non-issue.
Anyway… reading about the JLW made me more and more curious about it. How does it compare to the LS-40/56?
Which of the two would you say it has more of a quality feeling when used? Which feels more solid? Again, when using, because otherwise i know the JLW has a metal pivot, for example, making it more “solid” by default on paper. But does it translates to actual usage, the feel of it? Thx.
Well, nevermind, ordered a JLW as well. I might be slightly mad.
