Currently I’ve only used short throw but I was thinking about picking up no throw. I was never very fond of circle gates and was a little wary about a no throw because I always find myself riding the gate, and I sort of has become a mental part of me that keeps going until I hit the gate. When I’ve used american sticks with circle gates i missed the feeling of corners and never got to like them as much as a square. Right now I find myself alternating between the short throw mahina and the stock octo gate since the octo gate has been one of my personal favorites.
More Butteroj 38mm balltops in the house! Limited quantities! All of Butteroj’s balls are on sale!!
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/1948-medium_default/butteroj-s-planet-earth-38mm-ball-tops.jpg
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/1945-medium_default/butteroj-s-pacific-blue-translucent-38mm-ball-tops.jpg
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/1954-medium_default/butteroj-s-black-and-green-tiger-eye-38mm-ball-tops.jpg
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/1469-medium_default/butteroj-s-red-tiger-eye-38mm-ball-tops.jpg
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/1949-medium_default/butteroj-s-black-and-wtite-swirled-38mm-ball-tops.jpg
Can that blue translucent be drilled for an LED?
@PnoyPryde absolutely!
I’ve been using a Mahina Short Throw lately too. Idk if it’s just my inexperience showing but I find that for older fighters like 3S and ST the short throw has an effect on my execution (very slightly and only for DP motions and rekka series). For newer games like AE and SFxT the short throw doesn’t noticeably hurt me. Overall I love the gate. It doesn’t totally screw me up or anything so I may just need to play more with it to adjust to the altered feel. Am I wrong that older fighters are more strict with with joystick inputs? It really seems like they are.
@Armi0024 The JLF gate is holding up well under all of the harsh DP inputs I have thrown at it. Any plans for short throw for the JLF as well?
Probably the games are less lenient due to inputs needing to be more spot on. IDK if third strike has input shortcuts like DownRight, Down Right on SF4, but ST doesn’t.
I also second that notion for a short throw JLF gate. Or maybe a short throw octagonal mahina, that’d be awesome
I could be mistaken but I though Butteroj 's balltops are LED ready?
The Butteroj ball top I have didn’t need drilling
@Darksakul they are led ready…but to make the balltop ‘glow’ more it’s better to drill into the balltop past the threading about 1/4 of an inch
@pnoy pryde and @inendoi : I play on the No Throw gate on ST (my main game, I actually do get competitive in it) and tons of classic games, it just takes a little getting used to. You have to think quicker and shorter motions than what you’re used to playing on, and once you get the hang on it you start to feel like a JLF is too slow if you ever have to play on one again. I do DP motion fine on ST and there are no shortcuts for it in that game. You have to think in square and not circle, if that helps. d, df, f is not a circle motion, think of it like this. You hit down, hit the corner, hit forward, instead of thinking I need to do a curve motion. DP is even easier, just think f, d, corner, or for something more physical, think of it like this, right side of the square, bottom, corner. Super easy. When I play on no throw I’m looking for this when I input a hadouken: I hit the bottom of the gate, slide it forward until I hit the corner then move the stick up a little. It feels like a circular motion but you’re thinking in square, if any of this makes any sense. The gate in this instance is a tool for you, and not something you want to avoid hitting like if you were on a JLF from slow inputs.
Most people probably think of inputs as a circular motion, and if you think that a lever spins 360 that makes sense, but the movement is restricted so it is no longer circular but square. So you have to think that way, and apply it to your execution, and things get much better.
For JLF short and no throws, the stick simply didn’t feel good to me. Of course, I’m willing to do some more testing but I just don’t feel like it’s a good stick for that kind of mod. There were issues with hitting corners and losing inputs, most likely because engage isn’t for 6 mm vs 4 mm for LS-40 and LS-56. An oversized actuator would actually be required to get the ratio equivalent to the LS-56, it would need to be at least 1 mm oversized, the switches would need to be levered, and then you can use a short throw gate, yet I still have doubts to that actually feeling fun to play on.
Anyway, thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it and it’s good to see that they feel good to play on to other people. Since I’ve had a lot of experience playing on them if you have any further questions feel free to ask me, I’ll try to help out any way I can when it comes to execution on the custom gates.
Moonchilde’s work on these actuators has been great! thank you, a nice contribution to options for the community. It’s not like everyone is going to switch to LS-56’s but with more options the people who play with them can have some fun.
And sorry guys but I love my wife, not many wives know how to light up balls like here. She is 100% correct, the height of the LED dramatically affects the lighting and dispersion. If you don’t create a small extra space then the led sits in the shaft and doesn’t light up the top as well.
I really want to see the octogate you were talking about sometime back in the tread. I loved the 56’s octogate so if there was a short throw one I’d probably jump on it right away.
As for the JLF I tried levered switches with a stock actuator and they pretty much had a similar effect to using an actuator slightly bigger than 1.5mm, and it had some problems due to some switches staying engaged at neutral when returning from motions or slightly moving the JLF around the deadzone.
Logging in to ParadiseArcade.com seems to randomly not work for me. This has happened to me a few times before. Not sure what the problem is… Also, I have an LS-40 that I love but I need a stiffer spring for it. Do you sell a replacement spring upgrade for the LS-40? I have seen some comments about putting a JLW spring in an LS-40?
try deleting your cookies and clearing your cache
It’s the LS-32 spring… The LS-32 and LS-40 use the same spring; there is no “LS-40 style” spring.
A lot of Seimitsu joysticks use interchangeable parts to reduce costs… The LS-32 is probably least compatible amongst the whole lot by parts. Besides the spring, the LS-32 shares mounting plates with the LS-40.
LS-40, LS-55, and LS-56 share shaft and dustcovers in common.
The LS-55 and LS-56 share a common PCB that is also compatible with the LS-33 which doesn’t have an in production LS-33-01 version; you have to make your own by buying an LS-55/-56 PCB. Most people don’t bother to do that. It’s cheaper and easier to buy a 5-pin harness adapter cable for 0.187-tab joysticks. Crown and JLF 0.187-harness adapters both work for 0.187-tab version Seimitsu joysticks
The LS-55 and -56 also share mounting plates and the LS-56 octagonal gate. The springs are different between the two models as well as different pivot points.
The LS-58 has become so uncommon outside Asia/Japan that it’s almost not worth mentioning at all. It’s basically a redesigned LS-56. Stick with the LS-56; it’s easier to find and there’s more parts support for it… certainly in the US at least.
make sure you are at Paradisearcadeshop.com
We don’t, but we are in the process of ordering up some new springs and some Seimitsu springs are on the docket…
Missed you @Georgec !
We would like to announce, formally our new Assembly Assistance program.
This program allows people to have parts shipped directly to modders for installation and provides a list of modders as well the abilities of those modders.
As the program develops we will start listing links to these modders on the product pages they can help out with.
The modders will remain autonomous, they are not representatives of Paradise Arcade Shop in anyway. We expect them to incorporate solutions from a variety of vendors. However, with so many custom product in the shop, we are hoping this helps people enjoy the variety of what we can offer.
Here is how the program works:
- You see the Kaimana board (or any product) and think that would be freaking amazing in your stick but you are intimidated by the thought of doing an LED mod.
- You look on the modder page and there are some great choices for people who do LED mods
- You contact the modder who says he will take the job, you discuss what you need
- You order from the store and add that modder to your cart (0 cost, all monies for modding services are between you and the modder directly)
- We contact the modder, confirm they have accepted the job, and your products ship directly to them
- The modder receives the product and the modding begins!!!
We have a few more people we are working up descriptions for and will be joining shortly.
@darksakul
@vickomods
@ed1371
@pnoy_pryde
They were not but I cab have Susan add a deal on that
Cool. I would like to order one. Should I wait for the deal to post before completing the order? I probably won’t finalize until tomorrow anyway because I sometimes forget things that I need.
I will ask Susan to add it tonight