Any update on the button silencers? I cannot find them in the store any where.
Iām passing on the balltops this timeā¦ I really donāt need to buy more LEās after the recent purchase for the time being. Iāll wait to see what comes down the road from Paradiseās own design shop.
Right now, the operative word for me is āmetal.ā Repeat after me: āmetal.ā
Okay, I admit Iām being a wiseass there but, honestly, I gotta pass because my passion (and cash!) is not there for the star, twisti-pop, or cow-ball. I AM interested in the future product and a few things that are sitting in the warehouse.
(I donāt really know where you keep your stuff ā Iām just saying that.)
But yeah, Iām looking at about a half-dozen things off the top of my head in addition to the future balltops when they become available. I will say red is a BIG color to me ā itās my favorite ā and a particular shade of meshball Iām looking for is vermillion (red-orange/orange-red, whateverā¦ Not as nice as dark red but still better-looking that regular orange!). (The vermillion fits in with an anime-themed joystick Iām working on nowā¦ I need the tone to fit in with the color of a characterās hair.) NOBODY seems to have this meshball color in stock in the US! Other than that, the Wico red ball looks nice ā for sentimental reasons. My first decent/āarcade-qualityā joystick was a Wico made for Atari systems in the early 1980s. I HAD a red ball joystick at the time as well as a bat handle joystick. Funny how some things come full circle, no?
Iāve already expressed interest in the Zippyy from the standpoint of pursuing alternative joysticks that are like Seimitsuās but not Seimitsuās (less expensive ā mustnāt say cheaper!). The Zippyy is also my alternative to finding out what the fuss is about this silent joystick trend.
Iād love to know an ETA and a price (if you have one set) for the silencers, they sound fantastic. Even if I could buy a set of the thin beta ones thatād be awesome
1 Sanwa Star Balltop for me please. = D
Just stoping by saying Paradise arcade is awesome.
Got my order yesterday, and installed the parts right away.
Why getting a order from Hawaii to Maryland which is on the other side of the continent is faster than getting an order from Florida I do not know.
Either way keep up the great work, and the candy is awesome too.
We cut the last of the new prototypes last night and will be sending them out. I think we have enough feed back to launch the thin silencers and keep working on new ones. People should be getting there new samples sent out today or tomorrow.
I got an issue with putting an address for shipping and billing.
The shipping address has āArcā in it, however when I put it in your site, it automatically corrects it to arcade. Will this be fixed in the future? I have tried using different browsers and different computers, to no avail.
Thatās a bit weird, sounds more like a spell check issue, however, call Susan, she can edit the addresses after they are entered.
Okay, I finally had a chance to test out the new LS-56 springs. PAS sent a 3 lb, a 4 lb, and a 5 lb. Here are my thoughts:
5 lb feels extremely tight. I donāt think I could play on the 5 lb spring. I think maybe the only way Iād suggest one is you were to use very low force switches and had a very heavy steel bat top of some sorts or maybe a top with lead in it. Itās that tight.
4 lbs feels better. Amazing what a 1 lb force difference can make. But I still donāt think I would play on it. If someone was making stainless bat tops, then yes, I would heartily suggest this spring to counterbalance the weight, which I think would work well. Stock micros would make it a bit of a pain to use, so I would suggest putting in some Cherry or so, if you were to go this route, IF someone was to make stainless bat tops.
3 lbs. Ok, so this is the one I spent the most time with. Let me tell you my setup. I use an aluminum bat top and a Cherry switch mod so Iām playing with 75 grams instead of the usual 150+ grams the stock switches offer. Theyāre smooth as butter and a little bit quieter yet they still let me hear the clicks so I know Iām engaging my stick proper. On the stock springs, this set up feels slightly tighter than a JLF. Ok wait, no, most JLFās I try are super loose, so I would say it feels a lot nicer stock spring, yet not as stiff as stock spring plus stock switches. So, popped in the 3 lb spring, played a bit. It feels pretty decent. At stock throw with the 3 lb spring, I find the LS-56 to be uh, more in the engage zone rather than wanting to go all the way to the throw zone. I think with a modified gate to lessen the through, this set up would feel very good and fast, with a nice back to neutral quickness. On a stock switch setup, though Iām not sure Iād like the 3 lb spring. I canāt really test the stock setup either because I donāt have stock switches anymore.
Once I test out a throw shortened version with the 3 lb spring Iāll update. When I get some more playtime on it, Iāll give a further update.
If you feel like your stock LS-56 isnāt tight enough, I would recommend giving the 3 lb a try. If you mod your switches to ones with less force, then I would even further recommend it.
Another thing to consider are the 20gram micros with the 3 or 4 lb. They are virtually silent and might feel even better.
I have the 20ās but I prefer the build quality and feel of a Cherry over Zippy. BTW, Cherry has detachable levers you can get for their switches, I think they fit Omronās too. Is it possible to get those? Or even the Omron versions of the snap on levers.
BTW, got more time on the 3 lb. Feeling pretty good, I think once the spring breaks in a bit itās going to be my go to spring.
Aha! I found the image of the snap on levers. Theyāre Omron brand, but check them.
http://www.components.omron.com/components/web/webfiles.nsf/images/unsealedswitchgroup1t2.jpg
They should be interchangeable with Cherry switches. This would be super cool to carry since people could then do easy silent JLF levered mods, levered Cherry mods for JLF and any Seimitsu non-PCB model, and such.
You can also use the levers on the LS-32 mod we sellā¦
You mean take the levers from the Zippy kit and put them in Cherryās? Tried that, in fact I had purchased a good while back the LS-32 mod just for that purpose. Iāll C&P a message I sent to someone earlier:
The levers from the Zippys are just a bit larger than the Cherry slot, quickly touching them with a file can address that. Cherry does sell micros with levers, but they are ridiculously expensive. We have some other micros (Burgess) that will be available shortly and we may have the Omron silent micros for the LS-32 also.
Oh yeah I know all about just trying to find the damn switches with levers. The D44x series with levers donāt even have the same force to actuate, they rate them differently than the simple plunger-pin types so you canāt usually just get levered versions of the same switches weāre all used to. And yeah, theyāre ridiculously expensive just to find a set with levers because Cherry doesnāt mass produce them. Huge pain in the ass to even try to find them for sale.
Anyway the problem with getting Zippyās just for the levers is you need to buy an extra set of switches. Just for some levers. Is it possible that you can get your supplier to stock you some of the snap on levers to sell by themselves?
got a question on Long JLF Stainless Steel Hollow Joystick Shaft (JLF-S9F).
does the it have it own long sleeve cover like the original size shaft sleeve?
i canāt find one on your site. i was going to mod my jlf to feel like IL/happās joystick. itās going to have a really long stick shaft, a bat top, and a stiff feel by replacing itās spring with 3 or 4 lbf.
Noā¦ Those hollow shafts are custom-made to fit the JLF base but they are NOT Sanwa product.
If you really wanted to cover the whole shaft, youād have to buy two shaft kits and kit-bash a longer shaft. Itās not really difficult. Itās the same process I went through to fix a shaft cover that I cut too short to fit an LS-32ā¦ You keep one shaft cover normal length, measure and mark the other shaft to meet the length of extension/longer shaft not covered and cut slightly longer than that. Use the lower, thicker base of the second shaft cover to āanchorā the first shaft cover. IF you use the thinner, narrower top of the second shaft, the top shaft cover will probably slip over the second shaft extension. I use a Silver Sharpie to mark my cuts; the actual cutting and shortening of the shaft is done with a circular cutter on a variable speed Dremel = easiest way to control the cutting.
The reason for the long metal shaft is for situations where people have to install a Sanwa or Seimitsu joystick in a cabinet that has thick wood, metal, or the mounting plate situated lower. Long shafts and extensions donāt get used for mass-production home joystick cases unless itās a mass-production joystick that doesnāt have a universal mounting (ie, HRAP 3)ā¦ The stick shafts will be too short. Most people buy extensions that are 12-17mm long to counter that. You can still use the shaft the way you want to, of courseā¦
Moonchilde, how does the LS-56 spring compare to the LS-55? Also would the LS-55 be comparable to the PAS 3lb spring? The reason I ask is because I used the LS-55 spring in a silent-modded JLF (omron D2RV-G) and it basically feels like a completely stock JLF. I would like a slightly tighter feel. Would you recommend the 4lb spring? Thanks!
Iāve never used a LS-55 so I couldnāt tell you, and that spring wonāt fit in a LS-56 so I never had a reason to try the spring by itself. Are you using a JLF at the moment? I donāt think the LS-55 is 3 lbs. I would suggest getting a 3 lb JLF spring first to try out and buy a spare 4 lb just in case. Theyāre cheap, why not?