All I need are dimensions 
I can ship you the case if you want or just measure it up when I get a chance. If it helps at all those posts line up with certain holes on the JLF gate. Looking for a pic.
Edit: Here you go:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/JLFgate.jpg
Yep,
You got it right in that pic!
Those red circles are on the drill points for the Sanwa restrictor gate! Dremel new holes through those points and you can mount the JLF onto the mounting bracket of the Tekken 5 (American version) joystick.
Those drill points also make it possible to use the Sanwa restrictor gates with the Hayabusa joystickâŚ
Personally, I wouldnât use the Sanwa gate with the Hayabusa â I like the square gate baseplate fine; some people are comfortable with the Sanwa octogate â BUT the common screw points and mounting points on the Hayabusa make all kinds of JLF mods and aftermarket parts possible with the Hayabusa.
You MIGHT be able to mount a Hayabusa in the T5 joystick through those common points, too. Itâs possible youâd have to use longer screws, though. The T5 screws are probably long enough for the HayabusaâŚ
Come to think of of it, though, I think a JLF (black plastic) base mod had to be done for the Fighting Stick. I think some of the holes in the plastic had to be widenedâŚ
Two minute check later and I found this mod guide. Itâs probably the same one I used to mod my Wii Fight Stick => http://pineconeattack.com/2009/03/07/how-to-mod-the-hori-ex2hori-wii-fighting-stick-with-actual-sanwa-joystick-and-buttons/
And yeah, I DO remember making mods to the JLF base. This was NOT quite the same as the Tekken 5 mod! The advantage of the Fighting Stick mod is that at least you didnât have to unscrew the JLF to change the restrictor gate. Thatâs something I never liked about the âeasyâ JLF Tekken 5 mod.
I might be wrong but I think you have to widen the holes a bit and shave the two point mounts from the JLF base if you donât want to dremel the mounting area on the case of the FS.
You have two choices with the wing points on the JLF base IF you want to install a JLF in the Hori FS caseâŚ
A) You can choose to shave off the wings and fit the JLF base that way into the mount points⌠still have to widen 4 holes in the JLF base to screw it onto the Hori FS case regardless if whether you do A) or B).
B) You can keep the wings â which is what I did in my case â but cut down the walls of the internal stick mount area of the FS case so that wings can lie flush. I did so much case cutting with the Agetec joystick case that cutting those walls in the Hori Fighting Stick wasnât a big deal to me. You want to use a razor blade to do this. Any decent art shop is going to have this⌠itâs easier to get in with a small razor blade (tape the back end of it to save your fingers from cuts, though!) than it is to use a cutting knife/box cutter. You just canât get into a lot of tight areas with a box cutter; itâs too bulky. A razor bladeâs a lot more durable than an X-Acto Knife, too. You really only want to use X-Acto knifes on thin paper and styrene plastic. Even then, Iâd have more control using the razor blade to cut styrene.
[Hori seems to have a thing about âwallsâ surrounding joystick mount areas in a few of their joystick cases. The HRAP N3/NX also has a wall around the control lever area⌠thatâs what makes removing the faceplate from that stick case such a pain. The 5-prong adapter will impact those âwallsâ nine times out of ten if the joystick installed isnât a JLF or tiny LS-joystick like the LS-56. Bulky joysticks like the Hayabusa and LS-32/-40 just wonât snake out of the walled area, period⌠You have to remove or install parts through the baseplate. Thank goodness itâs not like the original HRAP bases where you had to remove 30 pieces {screws, nuts, washers, bolts, baseplate, faceplate!!!} to get to the inside!]
I kept the Hori joystick shaft to use with the JLF base in my Wii Fight Stick. I just felt that the original shaft was too high off the faceplate. Usually, the JLF is mounted up to half an inch below the faceplate (with the mounting plate attached) but in this case it might only be 3-4mm from the top faceplate surface. I never actually played with that particular joystick since I never bought a Wii! I ended up selling the stick to another SRK member. He got a good deal on it!
Are you saying that you had to cut the wall around the joystick mounting area on the N3/NX to install a Hayabusa? I didnât have to do that. It just barely clears the wall.
OH NO!
I was talking about installing the JLF with the wings intact into a Hori Fighting Stick case.
I was able to install the Hayabusa into my HRAP N3 SA (Soul Calibur V version) just fine with a few millimeters to spare on the sides. The bigger issue with any alternate joystick installation on the HRAP N3 SA (anything other than the JLF or LS-56) is that their 5-prong adapter WILL hit the mount area sidewalls if you attempt to lift off the faceplate of the HRAP N3 SA. This is definitely an issue with the LS-32 and Hayabusa which I have installed in the HRAP N3 SA⌠Ditto with the LS-40 in all likelihood. (The LS-40 is as bulky as the other two joysticks.) Thereâs a fair chance that if youâre a hothead OR not paying attention that you could snap off the 5-prong adapter in that instance. I would leave that faceplate screwed on and do all servicing and hardware installation through the baseplate of the HRAP N3/NX. Itâs just not convenient to work otherwise!
EDIT: Thanks to Paradise Shop for the quick response!
Four Wude, I know Bryan is on travel for work. That may be why you havenât heard anything quickly. Susan normally does the shipping (so I have been told, as she is much better at it than Bryan!) I sent him a text to see if he could check into it for you!
::Teamwork::
@Four Wude is this the order you placed yesterday?? It is going out today! Susan (Bryan is in New Orleans)
Yes, the order was 7x Sanwa RG (red) buttons. Thanks for the quick response! Do you provide tracking numbers for this shipment?
Dang dude and here I was thinking you placed the order a week ago or something and didnât get a response.
Didnât mean to set off any alarms, just a first time customer. I will edit my previous post to avoid confusion. Package is time-sensitive, thatâs all.
Haha, I get ya. Theyâre usually really good about shipping and you always get a shipping notice email. Donât forget youâre in Texas time and theyâre in Pacific, 5 hour time difference. So 4 hours ago was only 3 pm your time and only 10 am their time, they were probably packing and processing the order and it wouldnât have been picked up until later in the afternoon with other packages they ship.
I want to get a new couple of JLF springs, but I need to know if anyone knows what the spright weight is for the LS-56 and the stock JLF. Iâll probably be getting four springs. One slightly harder than LS-56, JLF Stock, Optical JLF Stock-feel, and LS-56. If anyone knows these numbers, it would make my purchase so much easier.
Also, is there a way to do a spring pack or some shit?
JLF is .9lbf and LS-56 is 2lbf. If you look in the product descriptions of springs you will find the stock tension. Iâd recommend the 2.5 lbf for harder than a 56, but you also have to consider the varied aspects of throw and engage when considering the spring of a stick, as well as the weight of the balltop and microswitches used, as all will contribute, in conjunction with the spring, to the feel of the stick.
Thanks, man. Yeah, my stick is super simple. Stock JLF with a worn spring, no shaft-cover, Seimitsu Yellow balltop. Iâll eventually be moving to an optical with Link shaft. So Iâll probably want something even higher, but this time around, I want to be able to experiment and have options to find what I like.
@bmckayâ I use a 2lb spring in my JLF with a 1mm actuator and another joystick thatâs an LS-58. 2lb is pretty stiff, I donât know if I could personally go up to a 2.5 as I feel like I would be fighting the stick too much.
You should be a boss and get a 9lb spring xD
Unless youâre using an aluminum top you shouldnât need anything more than 2 lb.
Yeah, I ended up getting. 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3. Just for the purposes of trying things out and in case I get an optical or dampen the switches. One will be going in my LS-40. I know that much. I just donât know which.
I skipped out getting the 1lb spring because I already know 100% that I donât like the feel of the stock JLF and havenât used it since a few months after I got it. Too loose for me. Even using the JLF + extra spring wasnât enough for me.