Susan claim the package 10 days ago and have no news from her since then. She said that must wait 5 days to get a response from usps but i have no news. 
Please @susaninparadise what told you Usps?
Thanks
International packages can be a pain if they get held up. I will make sure this gets looked into, pm me order numbers.
Unfortunately usps will blame the receiving postal system and the receiving postal system will blame uspsā¦
Email sent with the tracking number, i dont have any order number because your system failed when i paid with paypal.
Anyway Susan has the tracking number and already claim the package, but no news about it.
Regards
As soon as Susan said she found some extra anodized .5 actuators I recommended that my friend order right away. He received his order within a week along with a bonus of Hershey Kisses. Other than USPS not knocking on his door, he had no problem having it shipped from Hawaii to Florida.
Just putting a good story out there in contrast to the last two.
My order goes to Europe, Spain, and shipping from USA usually takes 2 weeks, i think is definitely lost
@mIRC thanks for the post
@pcornjeo I check again today, Susan did file a claim, and we will make sure we make it all good.
@buyproduct where was you package shipped to
Itās ok, I found out what happened. The USPS shipped it to within 20 miles of my house, and then decided to ship it back to you guys in Hawaii cause they did not like the envelope used to pack it.
I am starting to think that I am on some kind of terrorist watch list cause of all the weird things that happen to my mail and the random questions I get asked by cops while minding my own buisness.
So, you got a Hayabusa after all?
What did you think of it? I obviously think itās the best stock Japanese joystick on the market now!
Moonchildeās signature reflects my sentiments, too. I wonāt throw away or sell most of my Seimitsu joysticks but I think Iām done with them as the JLF-replacement control levers of choice. The Hayabusaās so much better than the other Japanese joysticks that the extra $5 for the part doesnāt bug me.
I think itās the best new piece of arcade control lever hardware introduced in the last 5 years, periodā¦ Makes the ānewā Seimitsu and Sanwa joystick releases look feeble by comparison. Canāt say that I think much of the new parts announcements from either Seimitsu or Sanwa replacement ā too much of the same rehash business theyāve both done for well over 4 years now. Seimitsu really needed to step up to the plate with a truly all-new design product that at least seemed like a real improvement but went back to their old tactic of repackaging existing LS-joysticks parts and labelling them as something new.
I really felt like I got my moneyās worth with my gamble on the Hayabusa. This is the joystick Iāve been waiting for close to two years for now.
I am very, very glad though that the Hayabusa is so easily moddable and compatible with pretty much every piece of JLF custom hardware out there. [details=Spoiler](Yes, I intend to keep buying custom shaft covers AND ball handles! LOL Now that I see a full future-purchase transition to a JLF-shaft spec joystick, chances are Iād probably buy one or two aluminum shaft covers in the futureā¦ No more modding JLF shafts to fit LS-32ās!)[/details] Any JLF-compatible spring, shaft cover, and joystick handle will fit the H-stick. It was very smart of Hori to keep the good aspects of the JLF model but adjust to something thatās arguably much more comfortable for a wide swath of people.
Hate to say it but I think the H-stick is both a JLF and LS-32 killer or at least the best on-market other Japanese alternative to those joysticksā¦ Itās a blend of the best of both with very few, if none, of the major flaws those two joysticks definitely have. Hori really did its homework on this part! A+
As I bought my PS360+ and DC cable from Paradise Arcade, I might just ask here (as I donāt think Iāll get much help from AkiCustom):
Has anyone had issues updating the firmware in Windows 7 (64 bit)? When I try to load the .hex file into the FLIP program, I get an error. Iāve tried several .hex files from both aki customās site, as well as zipped ones from Focus Attack, all give me the same error. I really want my DC cable to work.
Edit: Upgrading firmware worked fine on Windows7 (32bit).
Butā¦ now I realize that I have a glitch somewhere. When I start the console, the LED flashes once, then they all die. If I pull the RJ-45 cable out then slowly insert it, all LEDS turn on, and controls work. So, is this a sign of the cable connector being broken or the connector on the PS360+? The connector isnāt sitting very solidly on the board, so would re-flowing the solder be worth my time, or should I suspect the cable?
I ask here, because I bought both from you some time ago, but havenāt actually tried the DC cable until today.
Have you tried a USB only cable? It may help eliminate the board or the cable you are currently using. Just need to use it on PS3/XBOX360. Is there a RJ45 Adapter inline anywhere (Neutrik)?
Thanks Bryan! I appreciate the kind words 
Now I have to hurry up and finish this dang design and get to work fabricating it! Still going to be EPIC and HUGE.
The PS360+ works fine on 360/PC (I donāt have a PS3) using USB->USB, but then Iām using the USB port, so I still have no clue if itās the cable or the RJ45 port on the PCB thatās failing. As the RJ45 port feels a bit cheap, my moneyās on that.
Hmmmā¦ I think the next step would be to check continuity with a multimeter (pin to solder point) to see if there are any bad joints/connections. Other than that you can try to make a USB-RJ45 cable using the Akishop guide to eliminate the cable or pin point it.
I just donāt wanna have to buy an RJ45 crimp tool and all sorts of stuff, I just want it to work with minimal hassle. So Iāll try my multimeter first, and hope for the best. The weird thing is that if I gently push the cable into the PCBās connector, it works. I guess I could solder the wires from the RJ45 cable directly to the PCB, but thatās a destructive solution, and it will leave the cable attached to the PCB all the time, which is a shame.
Emphatic do you have another cable to test? I would reflow the rj45 connector solder points, then iI would replace the cable if that didnāt work. Let me know, we can help replace the cable as needed.
Thanks for the troubleshooting Jasen! Always great to have you around, even if for once I am on the mainland and you are not!
@armi0024 what USPS told you about my package EC647777686US sent almost 2 months ago? Please im starting to loose the hype i had about my kaimana led controller
Thanks
armi0024 is out of town! Please see your emailā¦I sent you an update on the lost package.
Thanks Bryan. I try to help when I canā¦ whatās the point of being a tech-nerd / actual engineer if you arenāt going to try and solve problems
Progress!
I re-flowed the solder points on the RJ45 and if I boot the console with the cable connected, I get nothing. Is there a button I need to hold for the console to be immediately identified? If I pull the cable out, then slowly put it in while gently wiggling it, the LED turn on and I can now push the cable into a fixed position and the LED stays on. This leads me to think that either the connector on the PS360+ or the one on the cable is a bit āoffā.
As I have a clear view of the PS360+ while I do this (itās inside my EGRET II control panel thatās hinged and unlocked), I can now use it to play my DC, but itās very annoying that I have to unplug it every time Iāve turned the DC off, as this will surely wear the connectors out way quicker than ānormal useā would.
As the connector is in a state where itās working as I power the console off, and yet itās not working when I power it right back on after a short time, should be of some help to troubleshoot, right?