I have my Cherry switches all hooked up and they aren’t working. Can anyone tell me what the issue might be? If I unplug the conversion harness from the JLF harness and plug in a stock JLF PCB it works just fine but the cherry switches wont work. All switches have a ground from the daisy chain and I traced all of the wires from the labels on the PCB to the correct switch. If pictures will help lmk.
Thank you @SusanInParadise and @armi0024 for all your help!! I’ve finally placed my order and looking forward to decking out my setup. On another note I’m really really interested in those annodized button caps, if you’d make them for 24mm as well as 30mm I’d buy a stockpile of them! 
You have the QD’s on the right terminals? Cherry has 3. Ground is the bottom most, then you want NO.
Would the “top” be the side with the switch?
Edit- It seems like I have one bad switch. The harness is fine because I hooked the direction up to another switch and it worked. I also checked another JLF harness and everything was the same. I guess the next step in diagnosing would be to hook the switch up to another PCB to confirm if it’s bad. I will update when I’m done.
Update- I tested the switch with another PCB that I am sure works and it still won’t work. Are there many dud cherry switches?
Ground is the terminal that protrudes out of one of the longer sides of the switches. It is bent at a 90 degree angle.
It’s all hooked up correctly but the left direction isnt responding.
Pics?
If you really wanted to just have a signal and ground with some QDs and just wire up the switch and test with a game controller applet. Or just test for continuity when the button is pressed.
My guess is that it might be the wiring, but I can’t say for sure since you said that everything is wired up, assumingly in the same terminals for each switch, and that one is not working.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/IMAG0338.jpg
The switch with the green wire is not responding.
@iNendoi we have sold 1000’s of Cherry’s and I have never heard of one not working… but, there is always a first time. Try pulling the switch and hand activating, if it doesn’t work, we’ll replace it. I have to say it would be a first.
To all, THANK YOU FOR SUPPORTING THE KICKSTARTER, it was amazing to see the support. It takes 21 days to get the funding but I am trying to work something out so we get a jump on those plates. Also…
The turkeysale continues!
Thank you to everyone who ordered so far, the response has been great! and educational
Here is what is left!
Day3 (Starting Monday 8am HST)
8am - 8pm Cherry Microswitches for $1 each turkeysale
9am- - 9pm Sanwa LB35 Solid Balltops $1 each turkeysale1
10am - 10pm Free Bi-color Balltops with purchase of Hollow Shaft turkeysale2
11am - 11pm Paradise Custom Aluminum Balltops $2 each turkeysale3
12pm - 12am Paradise Custom Aluminum Battops $3 each turkeysale4
1pm - 1am JLF Joystick 18.95 each turkeysale5
2pm - 2am 16 Wire Rainbow Packs 4.50 each turkeysale6
3pm - 3am Seimitsu Bubble Balltops 2.25 each turkeysale7
4pm - 4am Jamma Harness 6 each turkeysale8
5pm - 5am Chrome LED 1.40 each pushbuttons turkeysale9
6pm - 6am IL joysticks 10 each turkeysale10
7pm - 7am X-buster, Clear Seimitsu Caps turkeysale11
8pm - 8am Saturday Zippyy Joysticks for $6.50 each turkeysale12
9pm- - 9am Saturday Neutrik Pass Through $7.95 each turkeysale13
10pm - 10am LED Trackballs for $20 each turkeysale14
11pm - 11am Short Barrel Pushbuttons $1 each turkeysale15
12am - 12pm Pink IL Pushbuttons $2 each turkeysale16
1am - 1pm Cherry Mod JLF Joystick $18.95 each turkeysale17
2am - 2pm 555 Replacement Bulbs $1 each turkeysale18
3am - 3pm 44/47 Replacement Bulbs $1 each turkeysale19
4am - 4pm Sparky Controllers $20 each turkeysale20
5am - 5pm Convex LED pushbuttons $1.45 each turkeysale21
6am - 6pm Hollow shafts $5 off each turkeysale22
7am - 7pm X-busters .75 each turkeysale23
Day 4 (Starting Tuesday 8am HST)
8am - 8pm Paradise LED Joystick $20 each turkeysale24
9am- 9pm 16A Swtiching Power Supply $18 turkeysale25
10am - 10pm Black Rim LED Pushbuttons $1.80 each turkeysale26
11am - 11pm EZswitch Off LED button Wire $.25 each turkeysale27
12pm - 12am Molycote Joystick Lubricant $2 each turkeysale28
1pm - 1am Cam Locks $2.50 each turkeysale29
2pm - 2am Sanwa OBS Clear plungers .75 each turkeysale30
3pm - 3am Sanwa LB-30 Joystick Battops $4.75 each turkeysale31
4pm - 4am Uila RGB 5V LED (original for Jyueeang buttons) $1 each turkeysale32
5pm - 5am IL Lumination led $1.25 each turkeysale33
6pm - 6am Buy Seimitsu Shaft Cover get dust washer free each turkeysale34
7pm - 7am Buy 8 Seimitsu or Sanwa buttons get a free 10 Connection .110 Daisy chain turkeysale35
8pm - 8am Jamma Extension Harness $18 turkeysale36
9pm- - 9am Paradise Kaimana 48 Pinball LED and 555 $1.75 turkeysale37
10pm - 10am Tropical Moodlight RGB 5V $2.25 turkeysale38
11pm - 11am Tropical Spotlight 5v/12V $0.75 turkeysale39
12am - 12pm Luau 555 $1.50 turkeysale40
1am - 1pm Luau 44/45 $1.50 turkeysale41
2am - 2pm Sanwa Clear Balltops $3.75 turkeysale42
3am - 3pm Mesh Ball Tops $8.95 turkeysale43
4am - 4pm Mirror Ball Tops $5.9 turkeysale44
5am - 5pm Kaimana 8 Button Kit $59.95 (over $10 off stock price) turkeysale45
6am - 6pm JLF LED STICK $35 turkeysale46
7am - 7pm 30 connection .187 Daisy Chain $2.50 turkeysale47
Do you ever sleep, armi/Bryan??? 
I still have some Christmas money… I am super-tempted to jump the gun and go ahead and buy a short-shaft Zippyy to experiment with a “silent joystick”. I’ve got just the empty joystick case for it that needs a new control lever… I think I can fit it into a Round 1 TE I’ve got sitting in a box.
IF I like the Zippyy as-is, that might become my LS-32 replacement. I’ve looked at the other “economy” joysticks and they don’t click for me (pun really not intended). I’m sold on the gated microtab-style switches Seimitsu uses and think I want to stay with that style unless I get a chance to try something else in person that impresses me. This style joystick has worked well for me on about every type of game I’ve used it with – old-style sidescrolling shooters, platform games, fighting games old and new, Pac-Man, Donkey Kong, etc. Just an extremely versatile joystick with very few hard handling vices. It would never have occurred to me to try the LS-32 if I hadn’t bought that HRAP 3 SE with the lever already installed and it hadn’t been much easier to play most fighting games with that lever.
You have to pull people’s teeth to try new parts unless they actually get to demo those parts; that’s the problem everybody outside of Sanwa has with selling their joystick product. You already know my opinion on the JLF; it’s only “the masses joystick” because it’s practically the only control lever that gets installed in production joystick bases anymore! I can definitely understand why people don’t want to spend another $20-$25 on a new part AFTER they’re already spent $80-$150 and more on a deluxe/pro-level joystick.
Other control lever manufacturers just don’t get the orders for parts installation in Hori, Mad Catz, Qanba, and other joystick manufacturer production… Outside of very-limited production runs in a few Hori joysticks (usually XBox 360 joysticks) and some Qanba’s Arcade Shock sells, I can’t think of a more recent widely distributed (in Asia; they never released these in the US officially) joystick outside of Sega Saturn Virtua sticks that actually used anything other than official Sanwa parts or JLF-clone parts. You have to go back in time to 1997/1998 to find a home console joystick that used Seimitsu control levers (LS-56 style)!
Experimenting once in a while is fine but it gets to be expensive. That rationale and some of the initial reports on the new Crown Korean joystick designs are why I shyed away from that otherwise I think I would have bought one of those new joystick levers by now.
I get tripped out sometimes by the times that he is posting and editing and then I remember that HI is like 5 hours behind me in Houston.
Non-parts order/speculation commentary –
I sent the Candycane swirl balltop back in the mail on Tuesday.
I hope it can fixed for another user… I definitely couldn’t see how I could do anything with it on my end.
MORE IMPRESSIONS OF BUTTEROJ’s Tiger Eye/Emerald
In the meantime, I am really impressed by the Tiger Eye emerald balltop.
I don’t say this much but I really mean it => this thing is REALLLY pretty in person and a true piece of art!
I can’t believe it’s made out of plastic! lol
It’s better looking than the meshballs and most of the limited edition Sanwa balltops, period. You put this sort of thing on the joysticks you KNOW you’re not going to sell or just want to show off. This balltop is going on a case that I worked my butt off on the art for – and it’s going to get used.
To be truthful, it reminds me of an old bowling ball I used as a kid… It’s not quite that big but that extra 3mm in diameter makes it really stand out on the stick shaft that much more. [Don’t think it will mess up my timing but I do kind of feel the extra weight on the balltop a bit. Again, it shouldn’t be a huge adjustment.] That bowling ball had the same kind of finish to it but was medium/medium-dark blue color.
I gotta get more of these when I have the spare cash and am not paying bills, buying things I really need to live on, or refitting existing joystick cases that NEED to be finished off. I still have 2-3 spare joystick cases that need to be finished off before I even think about buying new electronics!
Question:
Based off your own observations what color of buttons, solid and/or translucent, do you think the balltop would compliment?
The picture of it looked real nice on the shop but I hesitated on buying it since I didn’t know what color it would match with since I am an idiot who likes to keep things a similar color or theme. If you say the picture doesn’t do it justice I’m now twice as curious about that balltop.
What balltop are you talking about?
The emerald green tiger eye?
I would say darker colors will work with it. Black and Dark Hai (grey) should be fine. White would probably be okay, too. You can almost never screw up color combinations when you stick with neutral grey and high-end opposite colors like white and black. That would also include transparent buttons of the same colors.
You can’t color match the green exactly… you have to see it in-person when it captures the light. It “sparkles” and has a sort of electric quality to it. Don’t know how else to say it. Also, it isn’t completely green all the time, either. I thought I detected blue at times depending on the light level. From my POV and my color perception, it’s actually more of a TEAL GREEN than an emerald green color. Emerald green is closer to being in the middle range of greens anyway; this balltop is clearly NOT a mid-range green. Teal green has blue shades in it. That’s obvious to me even from the photos which are not quite the same ever as seeing something in-person.
There isn’t a current in-production green button color that exactly matches this balltop and frankly I’m not crazy about the available green buttons anyway. Seimitsu at one time had more green colors available but those “jungle green/camouflage green” buttons became limited production after they didn’t sell well (along with other new colors for the PS-15 and PS-14-G lines). They wouldn’t go well with this balltop anyway. IF I were going to change button colors on what I have planned for the stick that WILL end up with this balltop, I’d probably go with the lighter blue/aqua shades that both Sanwa and Seimitsu offer. They’re NOT an exact match for the blue shades in this balltop but they’re still closer than the darker blue/violet blue/indigo buttons that Sanwa sells. I’ve never cared for Sanwa’s indigo/dark blue plastic product, either…! Black-rimmed or solid blues would look better with this balltop. Red-rimmed buttons like what I have planned should work, too.
The balltop color is actually close to the eye color of some character art I Photoshopped together for a custom art mod job that I should be able to close within the next 10 days provided the plexi and dustwasher I ordered from Art Hong comes in within that timeframe.
FYI, I’m not changing the button colors on the current joystick I have assigned for this balltop. This joystick came with black-rimmed red buttons. Red and green are complementary colors. Very hard to screw up that Christmas combination! Red’s my favorite color, period… For some reason, I also really like the black-rimmed buttons both Sanwa and Seimitsu sell. They go nicely with a lot of art themes. White-rimmed buttons don’t work well with so many art/color combinations, though…
When you get darker with green colors, they tend to get “pukey-looking.” They get brownish.
This is NOT a pukey color even though it’s a darker shade.
Vomitous is the last word I’d use with this balltop handle!
I’ve been sleeping for two days I guess! Some of it is the time, but a typical day for me ends around 10-11 and starts around 4:30 am.
George, review the ball tops!!! (you can win a stick and… get famous)
Pnoy, just ask, we can take pictures with buttons you are interested in, in the same scene, that’s good for everyone.
Finally, I have some fun stuff we sent off for manufacturing tonight. The first is round one of the adjustable actuator. We expect this to be fun. The first launch will be a “soft” small launch. It has worked well in our hands, but we want to get some more feedback from others. We’ll tell you how to get your hands on one of the first!
The second, and I know a few Seimitsu fans will pee their pants. We spec’d out springs and… are having some prototype LS-32 actuators made.
Now, if that wasn’t fun enough… Pnoy, you asked for it, you get it. I know it’s a horrible business model, but how could we resist. We have Seimitsu love in our hearts
LS-40, LS-56, and LS-58 hollow shafts are on order!
I feel like a damn infomercial.
Did you think that was it? NO WAY. Act now and you’ll see, the new shorty stick coming in!!! Has the shortest depth of any stick in our stock and… is short enough to fit in Hori cases. These too will have a “soft” launch. Our testing was great! But its time to check with some community members before full launch.
I know, I know, stop now… NOT on your life!
Adapter plates have also been ordered. After Kickstarter pledges are fulfilled, we will have a WIDE variety of plates available. Thank you to everyone who pledged.
At the encouragement of many of our fans, we are going to get back to what we do well and what we LOVE to do: having fun, offering great service and providing choices. I am an engineer by training and years of practice. I like inventing new devices to play with, much more than doing a sales brochure. So over the next two months, you will see me doing more drawing, designing more devices, and offering more choices. If you like what we are doing, then help by helping us with wiki’s and other information so I can keep my time in the design. If you don’t, well, I’m going to work on some of the wiki, but I’m going to focus one what I love to do, and that’s not marketing.
I love analogies so I’m going to use one. When I go to get ice cream, I don’t go to the shop with one flavor. I go somewhere where I can have a choice. Sure it’s easier if the ice cream shop tells me ‘Vanilla is the only flavor worth trying’ and that’s what I buy. I am the person who spends the ENTIRE time I am in line trying to decide what flavor to get. I have my standard flavors, but I like to try others too! Our shop has many choices and may be more confusing than others. But if I had never stood inline and decided to take a leap of faith in a new flavor sometimes, I would have never discovered some amazing treats.
There’s nothing wrong with trying to make the best vanilla, it may be the best and it may be the only ice cream you ever need. But sometimes, I want Pirate’s Booty (if you live in Minnesota and haven’t been to Nelson’s Ice Cream in Stillwater, you are missing out on one of humanity’s great accomplishments of flavor).
Enough said, thank you everyone for the amazing kickstarter and turkeysale support. And thank you to the people who pm and email me, reminding me to get back to making new flavors.
Bryan/Susan,
Recently I put in an order for 4 of your Fight Stick 2 joysticks, a PS360+ and some iL competition buttons and the communication was solid. Susan stated there’d be a delay on the order (Due to iL competition pushbuttons in customs) and gave me choices on what I wanted to do. I was in no rush for the other parts and waited it out, but thought I’d give you praise here for the customer service. Good job and keep it up. XD
Thanks for the order! We are expanding the IL line and will be adding short barrel compeition RGB buttons to the store. I believe this will be the first time convex american RGB buttons will be offered anywhere.
How much shorter are these compared to regular, wood type IL buttons? Also, will you possibly be selling the IL Magstick as well as shafts for it?
We can get Magstick’s in, but Ultimarc is the one who really disributes the top switchable version. Andy did some custom mods to a standard IL stick that were pretty nice for that stick. I will check the exact measurement but I want to say .5" shorter.
Half an inch shorter is a significant reduction for those buttons. That means they’re be easily installable in every mass stick that is MadCatz SE size or larger.