It does not absorb into the plastic like that. If you got runs then, you got runs. It doesn’t get sucked/absorb into the plastic as if it’s fabric. You guys need see it for what it is…paint. It’s a very forgiving paint/coating, but it not really dye. It’s paint.
This applies to you too, freaknasty. Remember that Bondo should not be used for structural purposes. If the hole is too big, superglue some sort of plug in place before you skim it with Bondo. Like in this thread… http://shoryuken.com/f177/neo-namco-stick-project-135824/
yeah im planning to super glue some plastic behind the holes and the holes aren’t that big, a pencil could barely fit through them. so it’ll be ok to use vinyl dye on the bondo or should i use some other type of filler?
Does anyone know where I can get actual vinyl dye? I ordered some Duplicolor vinyl/fabric and it turned out to be “coating”. I tested it out on some Sanwa button caps and it’s already chipping. Must find this mythical dye people speak of!
Ok, so I know that all this info has probably been said but there is a lot of pages and honestly it’s just too many. So my situation is I just painted my stick gloss white last night.
It isn’t glossy like it was supposed to be and two it is has the orange peel affect. I want to know what the best way to go would be in correcting this
If I did decide to put a clear coat on it,I want to see how well it came out for anyone else who did it. I used Rustoleum vinyl and fabric coating from autozone.
Overall I am satisfied with the way it turned out I just want to fix the faults kinda out of boredom. If anyone could help that would be great.
Looking at using a vinyl dye but just wanted to know how I should prepare the surface of my case before use. I’ve read that the surface should be clean and free of any grease etc before spraying. Just wondering what exactly I should use. Is SEM Vinyl Prep suitable or do I need to clean with something else before even using this?
I finally got my hands on some REAL vinyl dye! Picked up some Plasti-kote vinyl dye from a CARQUEST nearby. Also got some automotive paint for my metal plate.
I’m gonna dye the white plungers of my PS-14-G buttons as well. we’ll see how it turns out!
on my metal plate (which i had previously painted with Rustoleum spray paint) and it worked like a charm! seeing and hearing the paint buckle was the coolest thing ever lol. it peeled off like a wet piece of tissue paper.
tomorrow, I paint my metal plates with premium automotive paint
EDIT: I see this thread is pretty much dead. but anyway, I got a few runs cause my coats were too thick. I highly doubt it will fix itself like everyone says but we’ll see tomorrow
EDIT: the runs are smaller but not completely gone. to be honest I don’t mind. you couldn’t see them unless I told you exactly where they were. lol
I used to paint in college. One of the techniques i used was using oil paint on top of acrylic. I was wondering if you can use oil paint on top of vinyl paint without stripping the paint when using paint thinner with the oil paint. I don’t know how to airbrush so i thought oil paint is my best option to get different shades of colors on my case. Any help would be great!
I used to paint in college. One of the techniques i used was using oil paint on top of acrylic. I was wondering if you can use oil paint on top of vinyl paint without stripping the paint when using paint thinner with the oil paint. I don’t know how to airbrush so i thought oil paint is my best option to get different shades of colors on my case. Any help would be great!
I used to paint in college. One of the techniques i used was using oil paint on top of acrylic. I was wondering if you can use oil paint on top of vinyl paint without stripping the paint when using paint thinner with the oil paint. I don’t know how to airbrush so i thought oil paint is my best option to get different shades of colors on my case. Any help would be great!
If you’re going to use spraypaint for vinyl and fabric, STAY AWAY from the Rustoleum for Vinyl and Fabric!
That stuff’s awful. Way worse than the regular Rustoleum for Plastic.
Krylon for Plastic or Duplicolor for Vinyl and Fabric are much better… The Rustoleum just bunches up after you spray on plastic. I ended up peeling off a good chunk of it (after about 12 hours drying) because I KNEW it was going to fall off or peel within a month!
Absolutely awful! Lesson learned.
Dupicolor (Vinyl and Fabric spraypaint) worked well for me on the Agetec and Mad Catz TE R1 cases I modded. Wonderful coverage on the plastic, and, even when it DOES run, it runs well and the “bunching” up is minimal. You hardly notice it after it’s run and dried. Wonderful white spraypaint there!
Next best I’ve used is the Krylon. Worked well on the first Tekken 5/HRAP case I used it on. I’m hoping it turns out fine on the T5 case I had to repaint today. Krylon’s nowhere near as inconsistent as Rustoleum has been for me. I’ve sworn off Rustoleum except for metals. Rustoleum enamel spray for metal is half-decent…
I used Plastikote Vinyl Paint (which is actually real vinyl dye) on my SE’s case, the white plungers of my PS-14-G buttons and all the tiny white buttons like start, select, home…
Only a couple of months after question is posted but this is, I believe, what most people mean when they’re talking about vinyl dye: Duplicol Vinyl and Fabric Dye. This can be purchased from most automotive stores though the color selection may be somewhat limited. Depending on what sort of surface you’re using this on you may also want the Duplicolor Acrylic Lacquer (make damn sure it’s this colored canister as the other version of this can cause shrinkage; also you’d obviously want the clear version).
If it bunches up, then you probably sprayed too much at one time, waited too long between coats, or didn’t clean it very well. Usually waiting between coats may cause that because of the gassing effect the aerosol spray paints incur. But you can say it’s the paint, but probably the process of painting it plays a big role.
that is REAL vinyl dye. I can vouch that it is real. It is amazing stuff, won’t chip. I used it on my button plungers as well as my SE case. I don’t know how to explain it but it is not paint at all, it just…becomes part of the plastic. No volume added, no layers added.
go here and enter your zip code in the “Where to Purchase” to find some possible locations:
AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts should have it. Practically every major city and town of 20,000 people has one of those two stores.
Duplicolor’s pretty much been phased out from most auto parts suppliers in the Midwest. Don’t know why – Rustoleum probably offered a better deal to carry their product.
I don’t care for the Rustoleum as much after being burned one time too many. Way too easy to screw up. I’ve treated things the same way and honestly it’s the most frustrating product to use on plastic. Formulations are NOT the same between manufacturers and some sprays are far more forgiving than others. Rustoleum’s chipped on me and is less resistant to dings, too.
I’ve been kind of interested in the VHT, myself, and may go for that on what will hopefully be my last spray project next year…
P.S. – Thanks kindly for the Search link for the vinyl dye, 56k!
Tons of places in Columbus to find that product! One of those places is my favorite hardware store. That place tends to have the harder-to-find screws. Figures they’d have the vinyl dye!
For the places you find in your search, just make sure you call first to see if they have the VHT Vinyl Dye! I went to a couple places listed (both within walking distance, so I didn’t mind), and they both had plenty of VHT products, but not the Vinyl Dye. So just make sure to save yourself a few trips!
glad I could help!
