I used Krylon for my Hori EX2. I thought it turned out to be a fine job. :wgrin:
Don’t mind the crappy camera quality. I took this with my G1. :wonder:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k153/Crayolanis/1236897905682.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k153/Crayolanis/1236897947399.jpg
Man that looks awesome. How long did you let it sit before you were able to play it?
I let mine dry for 2 days before putting the art on and today I started playing with it. Everything cool except I got some paint rubbing off on my hand.
It should be completely dry. So I’m thinking there is excess paint on it, because the sweat on my hand was causing it to pool up and rub off.
(Took the lgloss off the part my hand was on)
Do I need to do any kind of sanding or buffing before this thing is ready for prime time?
Paint turned out great. I too am a big fan of Krylon fusion. Used it many years ago, when I had my Honda and I painted the arm rest gloss black. Back then gloss black was all they had. Nowadays, the have all sorts of colors and sheens. Also, I just gotta say, aerosol vinyl “dye” is just really thin paint that’s really forgiving when you lay it on too thick.
Being more of car freak, I’ve been turned on to SEM automotive plastic paints and dyes. They’re VERY fast drying and come in a much, much, much larger spectrum of gray/black/neutral colours than any Krylon and it’s just as chip resistant as Krylon. Unfortunately, it’s $11-13 a can. Just too give some options for those looking for a more neutral colour.
I’m going to give my Hss-0130 the SEM treatment when ever I get my connectors from Akihabara.
I just disassembled my case down to bare components and I realized something- my case has kinds of scratches and ruts on it. I know how this happened, the idea frustrates me, but whatever. Should I sand this down? I asked two people- one said yes, and one said no because it’d fuck up the plastic.
raeli confus : (
I was planning on using Krylon too, as I know where I can get a can of red on the cheap.
I’m also redoing my lamilabel.
If the scratches and ruts are deep enough, I’d…
1.Scuff and thoroughly clean the affected area.
2.Skim it with some bondo spot putty
3.Block sand and clean
4.Feather some primer on and around the affected area
5.Blend the primer out
6.Paint with Fusion.
If not, just sand and maybe high build primer the damage before you Fusion it. Fusion’s pretty good at covering small scratches.
they’re just small, looks like fingernails did it. so i’m tempted to just use fusion over it.
should i sand beforehand if they’re not big enough to see unless you’re looking at it under a light?
Krylon says, “no prep work needed” but, I’d definitely scuff and wash the entire case with 400grit before paint.
Alright, thanks. I already planned to wash it down, but I guess I’ll scuff it a good amount too. I’ll post pics on here when I’m done!
I’m currently working on my case right now putting on layers.
I’ll post pictures when I get my axisdapter and everything for my completed stick.
How long do you guys wait in between coats?
Btw anyone know if sanwa buttons are painted or colored plastic?
I used clear Seimitsus, but I believe Sanwas are colored plastic. Don’t sue me if I’m wrong though. 
lol
I waited about 30m between the first few coats, says it dries in 15m. To be honest it wouldn’t have hurt to wait a bit longer since it was so cold out.
Definitely make sure you get some clearcoat for it as well. I think I’ll clearcoat it in the future. Chances are it’s going to get all tore up in a few months and I will have to redo it all.
If you clearcoat it, then when it gets scuffed up, all you have to do is sand down the clearcoat and reapply clear instead of repainting the whole thing. Which I think is much more convenient.
Ahhhh thanks! I’m thinking about painting my buttons because my greens are two different shades but wasn’t sure if I could just spray paint over it. I forgot to get some clear coat so I’ll have to get some tomorrow.
I don’t think that’s a good idea.
Yea I was just thinking. It sounds like too much work anyways 
Thanks for the Fighting Stick 3
My cousin airbrushes. Him and my brother are really into those gas and electric powered RC cars. He paints them all the time for him and his friends. I’ll prolly have him paint my fight stick when I get it. I’ll post here what he tells me to get for paint and what not when I ask him.
I wouldn’t paint the buttons. My start and select buttons were sticking due to a new layer of paint on them. Those buttons were designed with a certain amount of leeway. Fill that with paint and they won’t be able to move freely.
Good point, yeah I’m not going to do it anymore but I’m thinking that different shades of green is probably better then my the whole stick looking like one shade of green.
I did not prep. I painted in direct sun light since it was a bit cold. After each coat I waited for ten minutes and used a blow dryer before spraying the next coat.
I kind of lost count regarding on how many coats I did. I just sprayed until I was satisfied. I also made sure to keep out for random dusk and debris.
I just let the paint dry and LIGHTLY sanded the case with high grit sand paper to wipe off the debris. I did the very same with my the metal panel except I sanded it down with high grid sand paper.
After that I just sucked it up and waited a week before I assembled my stick and hand buffer the metal panel with car wax. :wgrin:
Ok heres my green case thanks Inverse!
