P360s that are ROUGH: i finally have a fix!

for all that are very aware of how their P360’s operate, i have noticed that ALL new happ P360s have a very rough frcitional feel after they are broken in. And hate it!!! :mad: When they are new they are as smooth as silk but after a little break in period they seriously suck asss and are very rough as the joystick is rotated around. I think that happ has gotten cheap and went with some third party manufacturer once they got the copyrights to make the perfect 360s.

anyways after many attempts, i finally found what and where the problems are occurring. if the P360 is taken part on the hub assembly there is a “washer bearing” and a hub plate that are suppose to rub together in a circular motion. this is where the P360 gets its perfect circle as the joystick shaft is moved about. Thus the washer bearing and hub plate interact. There is initially a clear plastic coating on both parts that allow it to glide smooth, but once this coating wears off you GET THAT ROUGH AZZH FEELING :mad:This coating last anywhere from around 100 games or so then it wears off. happ just got cheap and instead of making the enitre parts made out of this slick coating material they just coated the outside of it.

I tried many attempts from teflon tape, graphite powder, moly, tungsten disulfide, other lubricants-- some of them did work but only temporarily and others did not. i got sick and tired of taking my joystick apart. so i finally broke down and went to a lubrication/plastic engineering company. anyways they custom made the “washer bearing” out of some proprietary PTFE and carbon fiber composite and some other high tech stuff. i got all the specs on paper. This company makes stuff for aircrafts and even NASA. This company did a material analysis of the happ part and told me what this part should be made of, anyways long story short, these new “washer bearings” HAVE CURED THE CURSED ROUGH P360S!!! :encore:

i don’t know why Happ has let this go on, i even tried contacting them multiple times about this matter and no response. fockin bastards take my money so easy but no support!

anyways my P360 is smooth like butter and has the new feel every damn day. I only was able to order four of them which costed me $50 bucks a pop which is the only downside. I think if i made a larger order i could prolly get it cheaper. anyways the 2 of the 4 i got are going into our local arcade mvc2 (paid/donations by the players) and the last 2 are put to good use in my two sticks. I’ll be making another order real soon as these parts are “godly” in the P360s:bgrin:

I thought i’d share this with the community and any questions you may have hit me up

I"m still trying to figure out how to wire it. last time I tried, couldn’t hit the corners at all and I used dreamcast agetec pcb for 5V. also tried the usb thing that works for my jap optical stick but doesn’t work for happs p360. so any ideas on how to wire this? shitty happs and their production cut.

how about posting in an appropriate thread there champ?

gnz:great find although this would boot up a p360 price even higher then it already is


sheeets bro didn’t know where to exactly put it homey! :lovin: can someone tell me or just put this thread in the correct spot then thanks :bgrin:

yeah the price is ridiculous, i know, at one time i was thinkin of going back to a switch stick cuz i was just tired of messin with the P360

no no i was talking to the other guy your fine where you are haha

did, no help. since he got it working thought I asked him how he did it. no big deal.

My bag dawg!!! just so glad to finally get a fix on this almost POS stick!

anyways how can you mess up the wiring on the P360, if up and down, left n right are working, then i think you just got the actuator upside down ( the black hat looking thang by the e-clip). Just flip it around so the smaller of the ends is by the e-clip. if that doesn’t do it, you may have a focked stick my friend. Also since you used a DC agetec pcb (these are the ONLY ones i use too) hope you got power coming from the #2 pin (its even labeled) on the pcb. The #2 pin is bunched with i think 9 or so others all numbered too, it can be a pain getting a good solder connection in such a tight space but this is where power (5volts) sould be coming from. hope that helps

this is not only “washer bearings”. bad fitting shaft stick & pivot.
taste to install P360 (small metal slave) in metal panel, many problem reduces.

Wico base is crap…
theoretically the best base for new P360 is Seimitsu LS33+harder spring

Better to buy U360+GT-0 + harder spring http://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_info.html

GOLDN-NZ, best news I’ve heard since we landed on the moon. +rep son!

I NEED some of those washer bearings!

We have to work on getting that price way down though because if they truly work I need about 8 of them.

damn I guess it is a big deal because now i’m in the red. lol. like i give a fuck.

hey thanks for the help. sounds like I did everything right but oh well. sorry for jacking your thread.

My … 1998 Wico Perfect 360s were about the best joysticks in the goddamned world, smooth like butter for … 8 years of play, never any problems (they got “lost” when I loaned my cab to a local arcade :mad:). And I’ve been around the world, so that’s actually true.

Those old school Wicos are cool.

Personally I like the spring tension on the new ones and the bat also feels nice. The only thing I don’t like about them is that goddamn grinding. If this parts where talking about here fixes that, I’m in heaven. I tried fixing that grinding problem for the longest time and gave up. I coudn’t figure out why the P360s would be smooth at first then start grinding all of the sudden. Makes sense now.

well actually this rough feeling i’m talking about and others mentions is the “washer bearing” because once it is replaced problem is fixed! The real minor creaking is something else, but the major rough sandpaper feeling felt through the joystick shaft is from the washer bearing rubbing fiercely against the hub plate. this new washer bearing is very slick and just glides along the hub plate in diameter opening. its work fantastic i tell ya

btw kowal i really appreciate you being one of the first to look into many of the P360 problems, i read and re read many of the posts at arcadecontrols.com before :bgrin:

anyways i may have worked a deal out where i can get these “washer bearings” at $36 bucks a pop! thats better than $50. So if anyone wants to try these out let me know asap cuz near the end of next week i’m gonna make my order. btw Preppy i’m sending ya a pm bro!

I don’t whats worse, the grinding or 36 bux a pop for a little plastic piece.

I don’t think we really need a NASA grade part. There must be a better way to get this piece made cheaper. Can you take a picture of the piece? I’m pretty sure I know which one it is but I want to be sure.

Kowal can probably make this part for cheap out of some smooth type of metal/steel.


I eliminated all problems using custom shaft stick about diameter 13mm (or mount P360 in metal panel) and new pivot, higher actuator.

angle of inclination P360 on metal slave 4 wood panel- 12 degree
angle of inclination P360 on metal slave 4 metal panel- 8 degree
crunching sound be generated on 10-11 degree.
sfaft P360 has diameter -12,5mm
but metal slave has diameter - 11mm

the wider handle alters the angle of inclination.
angle changes from 12 (wood panel slave) on 8-9 degrees (metal panel slave)
on wider handle problem (crunching) is “masked” it he was generated on 10-11

install in metal panel stick and to use higher actuator. this the cheapest method.
if you you have money - make new stick and pivot

I’ve tried installing a P360 on a metal control panel. It sucks, the throw becomes much shorter and the angles are way less responsive. Ironically, it gets rid of the grinding. :wasted:

i tell ya i can’t even believe i paid this much for this part too! ($200 for 4 peices) but man no more fockin headaches! :sweat: and its such an easy fix, just swapn parts and its done. :bgrin:

got even better news in a way, if i place an order of 30 i can get them for approx $29 a piece. at $36 a pop an order of 20 needs to me made. man i glad to get these custom made, but I’m in search of a way to make it cheaper. apparently most plastic company/engineers won’t deal with small fries like us and want quanity orders of 500-1000+. and that shit is fo sure out of my league for such a small fockin part, oh well maybe someone here might have other connections to get this done, but until then this is the only route that has been a success for me :lovin:

the new parts are working out great! :bgrin:

ok i placed the order on these washer bearings, i’ll have a few extra for sale for people wanting to rid thier grinding joysticks.

Okay, please keep the thread updated.

Golden Niz is doing such a great job for people here in Hawaii as in People all over the world.

These new parts he got are so good, gets away all that grimey rough feel after the sticks are broken in.

He has placed them in our local main arcade and it takes that rough texture out and the sticks now rotate so smoothly! if you don’t like that problem and wish to get those removed then GN’s creation is the way to go~!!!:tup: