Keep the hex side because that works fine for removing the bezel and buy a real flathead to remove the balltop because the crappy Mad Catz one is just going to strip and stop working if you keep flipping both sides of the screw driver
Edit: Sorry, I don’t know why the alt text is showing above instead of the image i’m trying to post, so this is the link: http://imgur.com/vxFSo1V
I have a couple questions. I picked up a used PS3/PS4 TE2 that I’m going to tri-mod. This is a picture of the PCB. First, is the bluetooth authentication module is on this PCB? Second, does anything plug into the 3-prong connector that’s circled in red? Nothing was plugged into it, and I just want to be sure that nothing is missing.
Just got my stick and I want to mod obviously. I can do the artwork and the buttons, but I am looking for some input from people that have modded the stick.
Things like:
-Kowal Oversized Accuator
-The Link
-Heavier springs
-anything else that I don’t even know about
Also, should I get some plexi from Art? Does it fit better than the stock plexi? I notice the buttons are not tight.
Thank you! I don’t have a PS4 for testing yet, and I was being a bit paranoid and wondering if there was any chance the bluetooth module could be located off of the main board. I followed all of the other leads besides that 3-prong connector, and eliminated them as possibilities.
BTW, the TE2 is a wired-only controller so there isn’t a bluetooth module. Sony doesn’t like anything 3rd party connecting to its bluetooth network. Plus, you wouldn’t want a tournament controller to be bluetooth anyhow because of lag and because bluetooth-pairing controllers are forbidden in almost all tournaments.