It’s a limited edition thing. So while it’ll may see more than the 250 for the Comic Con one, it won’t have as much as the regular TE2s.
I doubt we will see a TE3 any time soon.
For SFV, we’ll most likely just see another TE2. Anything new from MadCatz at that point would most like be on the pad front.
Or another milking from the VS mold.
Well I do recall alot of people liking the VS and responding well to Mark’s tweets about it.
That said, I’d say that the OG TE is the more iconic stick and has more chances of getting a Jordan’s style reissue.
I don’t think we will see any more of the old TE. I think you will see more retro colorways from old TEs on the TE2 but they need to make profit from the new mold so I believe that is what they will focus on.
Maybe after the roster is revealed for SFV we will see a new Femme Fatale TE2. Knowing Mark’s love for all things Tekken, we may also see a Tekken 7 TE2. If and when a console release is confirmed that is.
Dual modding is what you want to look into. Basically, you can connect multiple pcb’s that are common ground and use switches (normally dpdt or an imp pcb) to toggle between them. And yes, technically you can make custom panels if you can find a metal shop willing to do it. Madcatz is supposed to release an alternate layout (noir configuration) panel soon, though I’m not aware of any current mk layout plans.
@IceBerg303 not sure if you know but the 1.65 firmware upgrade to the ps360+ put in a command to do a soft reset for the ps4. It’s select + 3K. You can easily hit it in between sets.
@PresidentCamacho, I have access to CNC machines. The metal plate on the back of my current stick was done on one so it’s a simple matter of laying out the panel and letting the router do the work.
@jonyfraze, yes, I am aware and I have talked with them as they are working on a better solution that keeps it connected but it may not be ready for the 1.70 firmware.
I still think I may get the TE2 it never hurts to have more fightsticks. I have asked PhreakMods if they have any plans for adapting the Crossbone to add XBO+ps360+ to the PS4 TE2. I’ll see what they say but I imagine they will.
I believe the ps4 te2 is common ground, meaning you could just pad hack a xbone controller (there are some 3rd party ones that are cheaper/easier than the official model, no crossbone needed) and use a switch to toggle.
The crossbone is only needed with the xbone te2 because it’s not common ground. The original crossbone (for the ms xbone controller) isn’t necessary for a padhack, it just makes things easier.
Yea, I was looking at getting one of the Japanese PS4 TE2 but with the US release so close and $150 cheaper than the going rate on the Japanese version Im going to wait till they release. Last I saw the pre-orders were sold out though.
I’m also looking for a good design for a transistor latching switch controlled by momentary switch and use a simple and gate on 2 buttons so when presses when plugged in it switches. I know some more advanced circuitry can auto detect but I don’t need to be that fancy.
unfortunately that is the opposite of what I want to do. I’m going to have an actual computer inside, and Odroid which is like a raspberry pi, and need to switch between going to that and going to the the external usb.
can you elaborate or paste the response that akishop had about that 1.7 update? seems like they are close to permanent solution. i recently modded a xbox one TE2 with a crossbone to patch in a ps360+ so i already have a quad mod stick (with the 8 min timeout for ps4) but if the akishop update works then it might be a better solution for people looking for a quad mod stick! Seems like cracking the xbox one security chip is a long way away.
The TE2 thread already talked about the moisture and some other issues
Remove the plexi and wipe both clean and dry with a microfiber cloth, leave the plexi off for a day too may help if it keeps returning for some weird reason. The stick should of came with some anti-moisture packs in the box…
As for the new VLX, it’s an arcadeshock exclusive so it’s sold there and Hori’s site, and for Japan it’s on Hori’s Japanese site and Amazon.jp
Ah crap, sorry for clogging the forum with another thread then. Any known cause for the issue? It seems like such a strange issue to be having in multiple cases from their consumers. I’ll remove it later on when I’m in game mode, do I have to unwire my buttons to get the plexi fully off or can I just unscrew and raise it slightly?
Also, any way to grab a VLX in Europe through these sites? They all seem US/Japan based by the looks of things.
I’m new around here. Just recently finished building a fight stick but cannot live with the 8min timeout the PS360+ card offers on the PS4. That said I am looking at getting a MC TE2 when they go on sale in April but I have a few questions.
The TE2 look as though the button plate is removable. I’d like to be able to have a custom plate for MK X using the MK button layout.
I usually play sitting in a chair or something with my fight stick in my lap. How comfortable is the TE2 when sitting in the lap.
Is there a way to take the guts of a PS4 unit and an XBO unit and have them in one fightstick and switch between them? I was thinking of a latching transistor switch with a single momentary on button to toggle between them and an RGB or 2 colro LED to indicate which mode it’s in.
If anyone is interested here are the photos of my current fightstick, I will post details in a separate thread.
Merged a couple of threads into this.
Remember, if something has an existing thread, we’d prefer if you’d use it (and not make a new one).
Cheers Dev, didn’t realise the moisture issue was so widespread. Thought I was part of a very niche crowd.
Little issue with my microswitches, I’ve cleaned my right direction microswitch multiple times but I’m still having squeaks. Am I in need of new microswitches or is there a plausible fix for this? Don’t have any oils/grease at hand that would be used with small electronics, but I’m brainstorming for things to do other than just pay for new microswitches. Something that doesn’t require a purchase would be handy.
You have to watch other things they have said and publicly and to Focus Attack to get further details, but when I asked about fixing the 8min timeout permanently this was the minimal response I go from Customer Support:
“We are working on a solution.”
I have asked a few more questions and I can let you know if I get any more details.
I’ll grab an image to put up in an update later on, for now my phone is kinda garbage and I can’t find the right angle to showcase it. So I’ve got air trapped in my TE2’s plexi, anybody else have this when they brought one? It’s a strange thing for sure. Considering I got it overseas into Europe I’m going to assume it’s because of air pressure from planes or something of that nature. Another thing I wanted to note was that the build quality of the plexi is bad in general, it’s very thin and vibrates every time I press a button, in comparison to the Razer Atrox that I own this stick is around a 6/10, the original TE felt a lot more heavy duty and premium in quality, where as my Guilty Gear TE2 feels very plastic and cheap. I dislike the build quality on the thing and I’ll be looking to get my Atrox dual modded when possible.
Got a link working, it’s not highly visible but I have these air bubbles dotted around my plexi, it’s very hard to see them on my shoddy phone camera.
http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/froztey/WP_20150322_001_zpsin0lvupb.jpg
My thoughts on the TE2 is that it doesn’t really lay a finger on the older models of the TE. The original TE was simple and could take one hell of a beating, the TE2 however seems to have a very plastic-y feel about it and the body and plexi aren’t too heavy duty(The plexi is very thin and shakes when being played on a lot, the body is a thin plastic I believe) I feel slightly ripped off with the thing, as I was expecting something similar to my Razer Atrox in build quality which I would easily say my original TE is. The button slots don’t fit my Sanwa buttons properly either, they’re slightly larger than the button themselves. Albeit this may be due to the accessibility and the option to mod your stick with different buttons, but it looks tacky when popping the top of your arcade stick regardless, and the Atrox didn’t seem to have that issue and it’s fully moddable. I can’t give this thing an A+ rating, I’d have to put it in the B- category for being underwhelming and being a step down to it’s A tier predecessor. If you’re looking for a next-gen stick that’s cheaper and will probably be doing the same job, give the new Hori RAP a go, or if you want the godfather of Arcade Sticks order the new Hori VLX(I wish I could afford one of those badboys).
On another note, one that isn’t that important because the fix is simple, is that I had 3 squeaky microswitches when I got the thing, which wasn’t a pretty sound to hear either. Did I just get one of the worst of the bunch or are they really this suckish?
My verdict on these things is that you’re better off going with the brand new Hori RAP that they released. Europe/US/Japan all have them available on Amazon and it’s cheaper than the TE2. Bargain! Design is also very sleek.
This is where I brought my TE2 from - Service was amazing
http://www.nin-nin-game.com/en/japanese-import-playstation-3-accessories/13864-madcatz-guilty-gear-xrd-sign-official-arcade-fight-stick-tournament-edition-2-ps3ps4-en.html
This is where you can grab the new Hori from if you’re also a Europe player like myself - Also premium service(It’s Amazon after all)
No idea where to grab a VLX from, I’d probably just try Hori’s site and see where you get redirected?
I’ll grab an image soon to showcase my air trapping problem. Just thought I’d point this issue out to anybody wanting a TE2 as it’s a little tedious to let the air out…
