The first TE2’s had thicker plexis, the newer ones Persona/USFIV/Xrd etc come with thin 1/32" plexis, what Art sells is 1/16", so the bezel will be like 2-3mm higher than the plexi.
The old TE2’s with the thicker plexi was thinner around the bezel so it was flush with the plexi because the thin parts went under the plexi.
The replacement plexi I got from Mad Catz for my Xrd stick was of the older thicker one and it’s a lot nicer than the thin one that came with my Xrd and Persona stick imo.
Hi,
On my TE2 all of the top panel screws and 2 of the side panel screws refuse to turn. Every time I try to loosen them with the screw driver the grip on the tool no longer holds the hex/flat-head pole in place properly.
Has anyone else had this problem and found a fix for it?
Thanks!
I think someone had that problem earlier in the thread and sent a support ticket to Mad Catz for a replacement.
I just leave the screwdriver how it is and when I need to loosen the balltop I just use my own flat head screwdriver instead of changing it around each time
Thanks so much for your help and quick response! 
Just a request
I was looking to getting an LED board too.
While you are on it, is it possible that you can bump the priority on putting replacement pro cables back on the store? I got a 1m yellow one off ebay, but want a full length cord. Somebody is bound to lose a TE 2 cable and having a way to get a spare would be nice. I just left my TE 2 cable at a friends house and it took a while before I could come by and pick it up.
WTB Braided Cord 3m replacement ProCables (cough MLG ProCables minus the import price tag cough)
I was really tempted to get one of the LED boards, but think I’ll be better off just getting the standard kaimana setup seeing as I plan to get the Type N top panel as soon as it is available, then the board wouldn’t fit =(
http://i.imgur.com/4CMV6Ca.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/e9FlhQK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/UWwohpC.jpg
I got the LED PCB in today and installed it with some PS 14-KNs.While it works and looks nice on the outside, I do have a problem with the design of the board itself. As you can probably see, the board is not able to screw in properly because of my button choice. More specifically, the problem is with the switches not being able to fit through. This is a huge oversight on Madcatz’s part, considering the TE2 is supposed to be more focused towards those who want to customize their FightStick. I am aware that I can just sand the corners of the switches to get them to fit, but the point is I shouldn’t have to.
This is why I removed the LED board from my stick. It could not accommodate my favorite buttons, semitusu’s and RG sanwas.
You have to bend the metal prongs on the RG to fit in the TE2?
Nope, RGs fit in perfect without any modding whatsoever.
Has anyone here had a package (My TE2) shown as received via tracking, but not actually have it?
Sounds the carrier either delivered it to the wrong house or someone stole it from your doorstep. Contact the carrier ASAP.
Did that and they said they’d be trying a “package trace” and that they’d call me back in a few days. Hmph.
I tried to preorder a TE2 regular edition. It won’t let me place a preorder. Says out of stock.
Be careful when ordering! When I got the package delivered, tracking said: “no signature service required, left at front door”. So, yeah, basically they leave it at your doorstep (without a phone call or something). Better to require signature about delivery or at least make some note / comment on the appropriate page. Whether when ordering from MadCatz or when your package is taken up by USPS - I can’t remember exactly. (Sry for my english!)
MarkMan - Is there any info on the number of units produced in the TE2 editions that are no longer in production? Like P4U and GGX (round 1) numbers to get an idea of relative rarity?
We saved some units of the P4U2 and GGXrd TE2s for events/shows. This weekend at Winter Brawl in Philadelphia, we’ll have some for sale. We saved a lot for EVO as well.
After all is said and done, I’ll be able to provide some info on numbers made/sold.
For everyone that preordered their USF4 TE2 for PS4 from Mad Catz (scheduled for a mid/late March release), great news. I checked our shipping/manufacturing schedule and it’s on time and we’ll be getting MORE PS4 TE2 sticks just in time for MKX’s launch in mid-April.
—IMPORTANT EDIT—
Updated information and details of the TE2 can be found in the thread below:
“PS3/PS4 Retail Arcade Sticks List with information/facts/photos/etc -IN PROGRESS-”
My previous post is below in spoiler-
[details=Spoiler]So I’m going over details of all the PS3/PS4 sticks for the AZ FGC and the sake of SRK TT and such. Could use input on whether any of the details listed below is irrelevant or if there’s something I’m missing. Thanks.
TE2 USFIV/GGXrd/P4AU for PS3/PS4-
Case-
TE2 Case (Same on XB1/PS3/PS4/360 versions)
+Hinges can be nice for replacing parts and storage for extra buttons etc
+Comes with reversable screwdriver flat/hex for maintenance needs
=Weight (______)
+Planned customization options from Madcatz in future such as replacement sides etc
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles and releases means there will be plenty 3rd party customization options in the future
+Curve of base on back makes it difficult to accidentally press the arcade stick against an object and hit the Start/Select buttons
=Interior of case has roughly 5.5cm of height space for mounting PCBs and/or storage
=Side hinges are metal, front hinge is plastic
-Hinges don’t clasp as solid as they should causing a small give with pressure
Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
-Sanwa screw-ins not compatible with Kick1 due to nut being in way of joystick mounting plate
Plexi/Art-
=Default plexi goes around the buttons instead of under them. This has both advantages and disadvantes as listed below
+Default plexi easy to remove for replacing artwork without having to remove wires/quickdisconnects/buttons
-A few reported issues of default plexi not sitting securely due to size and/or miscut and being able to slide/shift and ruining artwork underneath (rare and plexi was replaced by Madcatz)
=Tek Innovations does have replacement plexi option and some report is much better than stock plexi.
Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Has a foam padding
+Good for lap
-Slides a bit on hard flat surfaces
=No feet
Joystick-
=Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT
+The standard Sanwa JLF is the most commonly used and most popular Japanese joystick on the market
Buttons-
=Sanwa OBSF-30 and OBSF-24
+The standard Sanwa OBSF buttons are the most commonly used and most popular Japanese buttons on the market
=These buttons utilize clear rings that allow the button to rise and be flush with the clear top panel
-A few reported issues of stock buttons being shipped with broken or loose tabs likely due to rough installation during assembly.
PCB-
+Common ground. Possible to multi-mod.
+Removable plastic cover from internal USB plug allows removal of PCB easy which neutralizes the issue of short USB wires soldered to bottom of PCB.
Wiring-
+Clean wiring using an PATA/IDE style ribbon cable connector on PCB to 20 color coded wires (10 signal 10 ground) to buttons.
+Quick disconnects have a convenient tab on them for easy removal that seem to be exclusively made for Madcatz.
USB Cable-
=Removable proprietary “ProCable” using a circular 5 pin DIN style connector
=Screws into connector on back of arcade stick base. Can prevent disconnection of signal if cord is pulled which can be good or bad depending on situation.
+Removable cable
-Not easily replaceable without special ordering from Madcatz or modder
A few questions that I’d have for any existing TE2 owners are listed below. If you can provide any answers or information towards these questions I can be more detailed in the positives and negatives of the TE2 listed above. Please PM me with any information you can provide.
-Does the existing placement for the ProCable mount have enough clearance on the outside AND inside to install a Neutrik or Switchcraft USB B to A adapter?
@tensho mentioned the space is “about 2cm x 5.2cm” but a Neutrik USB outside housing is 2.6cm on it’s shortest side so we need a 100% official measurement.
[/details]