That’s the PS3 mode. What OS are you using? Because this mode doesn’t work on my Windows 7, as it has non-standard behavior for a low-speed device. The other axis and so on are there in PS3 mode as it emulates functions of the SixAxis.
Are you sure the plugs of the joystick harness sit correctly? Are all your TEasy’s pogo pins sitting correctly? Sounds like a connection problem.
No, PS3 mode does not work on PC since firmware version 3.1 as is stated in the documentation. Press HK on plugging in to test the DS on PC.
This is due to the meta button functionality, please read the documentation of the DS.
I guess you have firmware version 3.0 as you seem to be in PS3 mode on PC? Since 3.1 you can configure it to be on Select, with 3.2 you can disable joystick mode switching which confused some people.
So you flashed to 3.2 by holding start before plugging in correct? You tested on PC with MP held down? Good, then as mephisto said (which I haven’t really noticed but take his word for it, he’s the FW guy and knows all ), hold down HK when plugging into PC to test the DS’s functionality on PC, PS3 mode will yield odd results. Glad to hear you got the Configuration Editor up and were able to use it :tup:
“The directional problem happens to both consoles” - If it’s happening on both consoles, that’s a problem with the 360 board registering your directional, or your joystick switches need to be replaced. If this were happening on PS3 only, that’d be a TEasy/DS thing, but in this case you need to investigate your joystick/360 board.
To make sure of this, if you have a multimeter, set it to DC volts and measure the voltage on the “Right” pin before, and after you actuate the right direction on the joystick. It should be 4.xx’ish volts beforehand, and nearly 0 after.
If it was “fixing itself” randomly, my guess firsthand is that your microswitches need to be swapped out. If you’re hitting it with Up-right and Down-right, you’re getting farther in the corners of the square gate than a straight up Right-only push.
Yeah those little wires can be a pain in the ass :/. Glad to hear you’re up and running though :tup:
Start on release - That’s the meta button functionality mephisto has added, I would suggest updating to 3.2 FW, then using the configuration editor to swap your meta button to the Select button. The “on-release” function will be switched to the Select button.
@Mephisto - I’m on XP 32 Bit, I hate newer OS’s and won’t update for quite some time
Yea I was holding start when I flashed it. I tested it on PC now in both mp-held mode and hk-held mode. Both times it had the problem with right being the only direction to not work. I don’t think it is the microswitches as the problem-direction has migrated, and during just now the problem starting manifesting as down-right not working while right did. When any particular direction doesn’t work it won’t be 100% either; sometimes it will activate on release, sometimes it will work on press but does won’t hold, etc. I included pictures of my stick in an earlier post, and I can’t find anything wrong with it. I’ve scoured it for loose connections, severed wires, pcb cracks (including pcb on stick), scratches, wire tears, anything, and I haven’t found any. I’ve reseated the xbox pcb onto the TEasy many times, just in case. I don’t know what to do at this point, I don’t have a multimeter, any other ideas out there?
Thanks a lot for all the help so far.
Elle - If the problem is happening on the 360 side of things, then that is definitely not a DS/TEasy issue, the DS only reads the inputs…it doesn’t effect the connected lines. Do you have a spare JLF you can plug into the joystick header to test out my theory?
Anyone else with ideas? I’m willing to bet your joystick is just crapping out.
Update. I just check the ribbon cable and everything is a ok with the cable. So just a quick recap. Stick works fine for ps3, but my issue was the 360 was not registering the stick, even though it is getting power. (lights on the stick flashing) When the stick is still plugged into the 360 it only registers when I replug the ribbon cable from DS to TEasy vice versa. (light goes to 1/2/3/4) My DS is working fine flawlessly from your tests and the ribbon cable. Any other ideas of issues or possible solutions? There should be no problem with the TEasy or TE pcb correct?
I just got back my controller from my friend and tried to install it again. The problem is that if youattempt to screw down the Teasy PCB in the same screw holes as the stock PCB, the microphone jack blocks it.
EDIT: Sorted, when I tried screwing the USB cables in again, I got the green and white mixed up >.< swapped them back, plugged it in and it popped up as a dual strike!
Got the TEasy and Dual Strike v2 through the mail today and followed the guide, but I’ve hit some problems. I thought I’d done everything okay, plugged the stick in to my PC and it showed up as a “USB Input Device” not as a dual strike / 360 TE and wouldn’t work in my 360 or PS3. So I went back and remounted the original PCB on the TEasy and tried screwing the USB cables into the DS more securely and now it windows won’t even recognise it =/ just shows up as “Unknown device”.
Tried remounting the original PCB a bunch of times, as well as redoing the USB cables again and turning the ribbon cable around… Don’t know what else to do! Can anyone help?
Interesting, I hadn’t accounted for that. Would you mind snapping some pictures for me in case I need to make possible future adjustments or something.
Also, hate to ask this but is removing the mic jack section a possibility for you if it’s in the way?
Ahh, yeah well as long as you didn’t get VCC and GND mixed you’re safe . Glad to hear you’re up and running, have fun!
Yup, all tests so far show a flawless connection. I’m not sure why it was having that issue, but just in case I should be getting some new DS boards in the mail in the near future. Ill get you out a new DS w/ a new ribbon cable just in case it’s just being funky with something in your set up :/. Haven’t the foggiest of why that would be, could be just a weird angle of the ribbon cable or something but the safe bet is just to get you a new DS.
The best option is the DS V2 with the usb jack assembled, because pluging the D- and D+ its a pain in the ass.
Just make a hole of 24 mm in the TE body and put an adapter NEUTRIK on it and voilá, that was my option.:woot:
Well, I guess I could break the left stand and have the jack have only 1 screw to support it…
Oh and what’s the brand of wire stripper that you have in the tutorial video? The one with the orange handle?
ok so i plugged it into a ps3 for the 1st time since i did the mod, and it didnt recognize the USB device…now i havent done the FW update, but i figured that it would work if i hold MP…which it didnt…when i plug it into my PC holding MP, the device reads under control panel, game controllers “Super SFIV FightStick TE-S (Arcade Stick)”
i tried to hold the start button while plugging it into the PC, and nothing happened…i dont know if im missing a step of if its different for the S board…any help? =/ (works fine on Xbox btw)
do i have to do this with the ribbon NOT connected to the board?
Quick question, duders. I scanned and searched this particular thread to no avail, but has anybody done a tutorial/diagram on how one would use the super awesome TEasy with an MC Cthulu? Particularly, what would be soldered where (if soldering is needed at all to go from the TEasy to the Cthulu).
silly question, but does it fit if you spin the TEasy/PCB around? If not, perhaps you don’t have to break the standoff entirely but just dremel a little bit of it down.
Working on that one, might be a little while
If you’re able to switch to 360 that means the DS is up and running, we just need to get you the latest FW.
Quick test first.
On PC, since when you hold MP the 360TE comes up, instead hold HK and see if the DS comes up in the controllers app. If it does, then we update the FW. I don’t have a doubt that it will come up, just curious and don’t want to overlook anything.
In order to update the FW, hold start before plugging in the cable, and once plugged in simply run the update_atmega168.bat file that corresponds to the latest FW, which is linked in the OP of this thread as well as in the Dual Strike thread.
No, disconnecting the ribbon cable won’t help since that means you won’t have access to the buttons anymore. As I said, since it registers to switch over to the 360 side of things the code is running.
If nothing comes up, try the FW update with my instructions anyway. If you can update to 3.2, unplug and then replug into the PC with HK held down and let me know what happens.
Once downloaded and unzipped, hold start while plugging in, nothing will come up but you’ll hear the USB connection sound (should anyway), you can then release start… then run the update_firmware_atmega168.bat
A window will come up indicating that it’s updating