I used to buy a couple hundred dollars worth of parts from Asia at one time to get my Sanwa stuff. Now I just go to Rodney. (himuragames)
He just rocks and is easy/reasonable to deal with.
He has both micro switch and optical versions of the Sanwa joysticks on his website. The micro switch versions are $23 and the optical version is $58. The best way to know how the sanwa joysticks feel is to go to an arcade and try them out. You may have to try a few arcades before you find one but if you can find one that has some astro city / candy cabs then they probably have sanwa parts in them.
[quote=trabus]
With the tan side of the pcb facing you, and the prongs pointing downward here are the directions from the left to right prong-
1 - left
2 - right
3 - down
4 - up
5 - ground
I’m 90% sure of this, but I don’t have my stick here with me, so I’ll need to doublecheck when I get home.
I know this is old, but can someone confirm this layout to be true?
AH so that flash kit is what makes it optical then?
One more thing please!
My top is 3/4" thick, so would a top mount or bottom mount be better?
It doesn’t matter either way should be fine. Both ways have their advantages and disadvantages. If you don’t have a router though I would suggest Top Mounting.
How do you put the buttons in 3/4" wood? Give as many exaples as possible please…
You either have to use a router to thin the wood down to 1/4" around the buttons or you have to top mount them using a metal plate.
SpiffyShoes
But I use 3mm Lexan also, will it work then you think?
Nash 421
I don`t have the screw type buttons, I have with those “clips” things on the sides.
I have messured on one of my Sanwabuttons and the “grip” is max 4mm (millimeter). So, I was wondering if I could rout down to 1 mm of MDF wood (I have 3mm Lexan)? Or will it break easy? Anyone who have tried it?
I don’t know if the lexan will hold or not but I know plexi will break if it is the only thing holding the button on and you pound on it pretty hard. I’d suggest mounting them onto a metal plate the way Trabus did.
http://www.trabusproject.com/images/joystick/unfinished/index.php?i=3
Lexan will easily hold. It’s MUCH stronger than plexi and will not crack/break from mashing or pounding. You could mount your buttons to the lexan and just use the mdf as a framing support. It will be very sturdy plus there would be no need to route the mdf to 1mm, because mdf usually becomes very brittle when its thinned down, I wouldn’t recommend it in the long run.
Tha-Darkside
Do you mount the buttons in just the lexan or how do you do it? Any pictures? And when you do it, is the buttons tight fastened or little loose?
I messured again and realised that the button grabs hold of objekts 4mm, 3mm, 2mm and 1mm. So maybe it works on my 3mm lexan.
I mount them in just the lexan and they’re never loose, but that just depends on how accurate the hole is, because I like to make the holes to where the buttons fit very snuggly that way they can’t move. Just make sure you push it so that both clips latch on and you’ll be good to go. A friend has my camera so I can’t post any piqs yet.
Tha-Darkside
What is the dimension of the holes you are drilling?
http://www.holesaw.com.tw/p5_ha90-type.htm
That HA-90 would be nice…
Does anybody know where these are sold besides in Taiwan?
Don’t they sell something similar to that at HomeDepot for a Dremel Rotary Tool?