An easier way to wire the stik without the harness is to de-solder the 5 pin connector so you can remove it, then run your wires through the 5 holes and solder them on that way. It’ll make a secure connection, look very clean, plus it’s less likely for your wires to ever come in contact with each other.
Not bad Nash, but why the heightened sides? Is it out of preference? I like them flush with the top so my hands don’t feel restricted, but that’s just my choice.
I tried it out flush and a little bit high. The spacing is just right for me that the side of my hand fits between the stick and the sides. It just felt a bit better. =)
I’m trying to setup my flash stick. I was having problems I thought with finding the power on the pcb I was using. But I just opened up my MAS with a perfect 360. I unsoldered and put my stick in there and I have the same problem. When I connect the power the stick goes nuts like its pressing a whole ton of buttons.
I just wanted to make sure. The pin layout is :
Yeah, thats correct.
Really odd, I hooked it up to my MAS PCB which works fine with my Perfect 360. Still didn’t work.
Hi Anyone,
I’m having a hard time getting a straight answer, so can someone tell me what kind of Sanwa to get. I plan on putting a Sanwa Stick in a Hori Neo Geo Stick. Do I get a Sanwa with a mounting plate, or one without a mounting plate? Thanks in advance!
Do, you have a picture as to which stick your talking about? Is it this one?
http://www.superfamishop.com/acheter,accessoires,consoles,jeux-40+2695.html
You only need a mounting plate if you are mounting your joystick in wood. I assume your Neo Geo stick isn’t made out of wood so probably you don’t need one. If you have the Neo Geo stick from the picture you want to get a sanwa JLF.
Thanks,
Your answer is alot more clear then I had previously received.
Hi Spiffy,
One more Sanwa question. For the Neo Hori II, do I get Sanwa buttons with the clips or the screw on type? Thanks
Which ever you prefer they both should work fine. Personally I like the screw on type best but the clip on ones are a little cheaper. I tried putting some plexi on my Namco but I had clip on buttons and they didnt fit with both the plexi and metal plate but the screw on ones would. So basically it boils down to the screw in are more versatile but the clip-ons are cheaper. Either way should work fine.
Thanks again!
So I finally opened up my Hori Neo II, to see what I am up against. Seems like a fairly easy Mod. Is there anything I should know before I begin adding a stick and buttons?
Any suggestions or opinions will be helpful. Thanks!
Quick question for anyone that wants to answer it. I’ve got 6 clip-on Sanwa buttons. I’m curious – if I get my plexi cut at EXACTLY 30mm, will it fit, or does it need to be a smidgeon larger?
Next question: the tutorials I see on “wiring your own PS2 Controller” show different buttons which have an NO, NC, and Ground connections. The Sanwa ones just have two. Any way to tell which is which? And am I a moron assuming there’s no ground?
I was about to post this anyway, and I guess it ties in as I believe that stick is the same (at least close to identical) to the Hori SS (The black ones with green buttons/ball top), likewise there’s a PCE equivalent.
I had a spare JLF-TP-8Y and some OBSF-30 buttons hanging around which I needed to put to good use, the only stick spare I had was one of the afore mentioned Hori SS sticks so I decided to toy around with them.
Anyone who’s come across one of these knows they’re very shallow indeed, the only option is to mount directly to the underside of the plastic casing. The plastic casing in turn has no space between it and the metal top plate (so you need to use flat headed screws to hold the stick in place or the plate won’t go back on properly).
Mounting is no different to many sticks: shave/cut the original plastic supports and widen the basin where the original stick was, screw holes and attach the stick flush against the plastic. Even with the stick absolutely flush I estimate there is less than 1 millimeter of clearance between the shaft and the sticks base plate when reattached, there’s absolutely no scope for lowering the stick further.
So obviously we have problems: it’s mounted way too high, the shaft is too long and the whole thing just doesnt feel right, it feels awkward to move.
After mulling for a while, realising there was no nice way to mount it lower I decided on all out modding it and using the shaft from the original Hori. This shaft is much much shorter, obviously about right for this stick, it is however about a millimeter less in diamater, placing the shaft through the Sanwa bearing and spring cap parts it’s immediately obvious that it will be loose, unresponsive and with a dead zone in the center as the shaft moves and the bearing/caps stay firmly put.
What I decided upon was to annihilate what was left of the Hori stick. Being designed for the shaft I was using it was apparent that the bearing and caps from that stick would be exactly the correct bore for the job, sadly they’re not the right size or shape to be put directly into the Sanwa stick, I figured that if I could somehow get them into their equivalent Sanwa parts then all would be good. So it’s filing time.
I took each of the 3 parts and filed them down so that all that was left of them were tiny plastic tubes, each of them with plastic litterally no more than about 0.3mm thick, this was done with 2 medium sized files and took a few hours. Each of these tubes was now ready to go, they slotted perfectly (quite tightly, there’s no movement at all) inside each of their Sanwa equivalents. Put back together again the Hori shaft fits into the Sanwa as if they were made for each other, there’s no wobble at all yet the shaft slides in and out just fine.
One final problem though, the Sanwa spring cap is too long and covers the end of the shaft so there’s no way to put the clip back on. Once more with the filing I take off a few millimeters. Clip goes back on and we’re good to go 
As to how it feels, well it feels better than the original hori stick, it also feels better to me than with the original long shaft however it is not perfect (and is no competition for the one mounted in my DC stick). Firstly it’s still very obvious that the stick is mounted too high, the center of rotation just feels wrong and there’s just nothing that can be done about this, also I think that the shaft is definately held tighter by the inner spring cap than it otherwise would be, the inner tube created could still be thinned out a bit more to make the shaft slide through it easier, but then the tube itself may not be held in as tightly. The combination of the two things means a little more effort needs to be put in when using it than otherwise (but this is perfect for people who find the Sanwa sticks to loose in the first place). The stick also has more throw (though it obviously contacts the switches at the same point), as I had to file down the length of the outer spring cap to fit it onto the shaft the point where it makes contact with the restrictor has risen.
All in all, it’s interesting, certainly not bad but it doesnt come close to having the stick mounted lower.
ps. the button holes are 30mm, the Sanwa buttons clip in just fine.
Wow, that was alot of info. Thanks for taking the time. I will take all of that into consideration when I start the swapping! Thanks 
You can take the shaft and E-clip from any other Hori joystick. This is what people basically do with the Namco.
I just personally like the case of the Namco and the newer Hori sticks much more than the older Saturn/Neo-Geo/PSX body.
Thanks for the info. The Shaft on my Hori has some rust on it, so I will probably replace it.
My Sanwa parts just came in, and I noticed on the buttons there is a slash mark next to one of the connectors. Is that were you connect the ground, or does it not matter which button connector you use for ground? Sorry for the rookie question, but I wanted to cover all bases before I begin messing with it!
Just a personal question to yall, how do yall get your parts (sanwas) because I have been going through different distributors and have found many of them to be (*cough) unreliable.