Here’s the outside. Rest are following.
Maybe I’ll do some buttons swaps to Sanwa. The thing is, I don’t find that much of an upgrade. The stock ones work fine. I just noticed that the SC logo is yellow in blue though… hmmm…
Swapped in JLF, GT-Y, Moved some button wiring around as well as start & select.
Lastly just a close up shot of the joystick flush mounted in there with hidden bolts (ala spiffyshoes technique)
This also shows that you don’t have to hybrid the parts to fit them in there.
Nice! Did the Sanwa stick fit in that little square recess where the old stick used to reside? I’ll have to read Spiffy’s way of mounting cuz your pic is so dark, I don’t see how you got it in there. Of course, I don’t know what I’m supposed to look for either.
Did you switch it with a dual shock pcb then, or did you just keep the stock one? I just want a dual shock pcb so it’ll work fine with Xbox and Cube since I play SC2 on both of those systems. All I wanna know is if I can just take that pcb out and use the dual shock one? Or will the buttons be loose?
And you said you recommend the clip in sanwa buttons over the screw ins, correct?
The stock PCB works fine since this was a brand new unit. If you get the right adaptor it should work fine. I think that a gemini will work with this stick as well.
I cut off the two bolt prongs and then opened up for holes so that it could slide in there and seat flush. I then used Spiffyshoes idea of using shorter screws to not screw through the PCB and the gate. The head of the screw resides under the PCB. This way a flash harness will fit in there or the gates can be changed easily. (this is a slight upgrade from Catch22’s boltless method) Previously I would just sink in two bolts from the top of the panel to secure the joystick.
The joystick body fits in the square cutout fine as long as you cut off the two flanges.
This is as much info as I’ll put out there. I’m to busy to be writing a guide. I do this as a paid service from my site and this is good enough info for someone that knows what they are doing to figure out the rest themselves.
A number of us have figured it all out with only a few simple pictures of Catch22’s original JLF in the Namco/Hori stick posted on tekken zaibatsu.
Clip in buttons tend to work better in this installation.
I thank you very much Mr. Business man. I’ll gather what I can from what you posted and let you know how it all works out.
you can’t stay with top of the game if you give out every single one of your tricks.
It’s all good Armad, you’ve given plenty of stuff. I’ll hit up my boy Byrdo if I get stuck on anything else, but your stuff has been invaluable. Can’t wait to start putting it to practice. I’m not out to go into business myself, not for a while, just wanted to do a mod. Thanks again. :tup:
I’ve finished my Tekken 3 (4 button) stick mod. It got:
- upgrade to 6 buttons (kept with the stock stile yellow hori buttons)
- Sanwa JLF with shaft cover set and yellow ball top.
- Cable swaped out for a Sony cable off a digital controller I had. (the hori cable looked in bad shape)
If you have a five pin joystick connector that Himura sells on his website then with the microswitches facing up the pin on the far right is the ground. All of the rest of the pins you should be able to figure out from there. Just look at the circuit board and trace the line going from a pin to see which microswitch they go to. The lines on the circuit board are fairly big so this should be an easy task.
If you dont have one of those five pin connectors then just follow Armad1ll0s example he posted earlier in this thread, and just solder to the microswitches like you would a regular joystick.
oh I might as well post this pic of the Hori Real Arcade Pro that I modded. I might also put in a flash harness in there also. It just won’t look any different.
Hey thanks Spiffy Shoes. I just realized that it really only matters how you intend on mounting the stick that determines which way is up down left or right so you pretty much have to trace them. It wasn’t hard at all. Thanks again.
Help me out
I’m about to order a joystick from himura games, and I was wondering a couple things. Are there any installation instructions anywhere for mounting sanwa stuff any where? Also, does 3/4 wood work ok for sanwas, thats what i used for happ products. And finally, what size are the wholes of the holes I have to drill for the joystick and buttons?
3/4 is way too thick if you are wanting to bottom mount the joystick. 3/8 is what you should use. Other wise you should top mount the joystick. Top mounting isn’t very hard and will give I better sized shaft. You can find instruction on how to Top Mount your Sanwa on www.modeverything.com. For the buttons if you ordered the clip in type you will need to make a metal mounting plate to top mount them. If you ordered the screw type buttons then you should be able to mount them on 1/4" wood. For the buttons you will need to make your hole 30mm. Since they don’t make 30mm drill bits then just use the regular 1-1/8" (29mm) and then widen the holes.
you can clip into your plexi if you secure your plexi through another method other than leting the buttons hold them down.
That’s true but it’s not as strong as using the metal plate or wood. It should be fine for regular use but if you pound supper hard on the buttons it will crack the plexi. Of course most people aren’t going to be pounding that hard on the buttons but you never know. If your going to mount the buttons that way it might be better to use Lexan instead since it is supposed to be stronger. But then using Lexan you have the disadvantage that they won’t cut it for you at the store, plus you have to sand down the edges.
Where do they cut plexiglass for you? And are youtalking abouting cutting into shape or just small enough for you to fit into your car liketh wood cutting stations?
They will cut it for you at home depot or lowes. They will only cut 90 degree angles so they won’t cut the corners off for you or anything. Their cuts are going to be better than what you do your self though. And the fewer the cuts you make on the plexi yourself the fewer chances you have of making mistakes.
New Sanwa Stik for tha sanwa thread. Gives you an idea of how low cases can be made to fit sanwa parts. This one is a JLF stik.
Also for the top, lexan is much better/stronger than plexi and it won’t crack, making it ideal for mounting sanwa buttons as long as there are other "renforcements under it so that it doesn’t bend inward, for those of you that “hammer” the buttons. I always use lexan and have never had any problems with it, it’s also not very hard to cut yourself.
wow, that is a massive hole to make in the wood. I’ve seen the mounting plate and it looks like I can top-mount it just like any other joystick. I was just gonna send the 4 screws through the mounting plate and use washers and bolts to tighten. Does that sound workable?