I know this isn’t really sanwa, but this seemed kind of relevant. Can you put an octangonal gate into the t4/sc2 stick and how?
the only way to get the GT-Y in there is to put the whole Sanwa JLF in there.
Well I just finished it, and it works. 
http://www.trabusproject.com/images/joystick/index.php?i=4
I used a solderless method for the connections, I seperated the wires on the ribbon and put shrink tube around them. Then I hooked them up to a barrier strip. I still need to wire up the mode button and select, but the buttons haven’t arrived yet. I also need to make room for the start button (the temporary one is sideways right now because it’s too close to the back wall) but I’m also going to wait until the real one arrives.
Overall I’m pretty happy with it, being my first stick and all. 
nice trabus, great button layout too…
if you had like a pool ball as a start button that would be sick
I agree, that is a pretty sharp looking stick. Well done :tup:
this is what this thread is all about.
Nicely done…
I am buying a Red octane stick that they have on Sale 4 $15 and all Sanwa components to replace the junk it comes with. Besides drilling the extra button holes and wiring them up what else will I need to do?
Will the stick and the buttons fit in the pre drilled holes on the red octane stick? Will I have to route the stick portion to get it mount as well as the buttons? Thanks in advance for any help!
I was looking at everything I have ordered and I was wondering if someone could tell me the order of the pegs on the Sanwa stick? I don’t want to have guess for up,down,left and right.
With the tan side of the pcb facing you, and the prongs pointing downward here are the directions from the left to right prong-
1 - left
2 - right
3 - down
4 - up
5 - ground
I’m 90% sure of this, but I don’t have my stick here with me, so I’ll need to doublecheck when I get home.
The best way to tell though is to look at the green side of the pcb (just take off the restrictor plate and it comes right off) and trace from the prongs to where they end. Then whichever postion the microswitch it leads to is opposite of the direction it represents; so if the microswitch on the left side actually triggers the right direction (because the when you move the joystick to the right, it pushes on the left microswitch). The same is true of the up and down directions.
It depends on the sanwa stick you bought. If you bought an Ulitmarc T-Stick with the extra long handle then you should be able to mount it useing the holes in the Red Octane box. If your using a JLF stick then you will need to cut out a square hole for it and use a mounting plate to top mount it. There is a tutorial on how to top mount the sanwas on www.modeverything.com
For the buttons you will need to enlarge the holes in order to fit them on.
Thank you both!!! Thats helps ALLOT!! I will post pics of the sticks when they are done!
For those interested, I finally had the spare time to make a blueprint of the small sanwa cases I created awhile back. You can click on the link here or go to my website. It’s a pretty simple layout, but gives all the measurements I would use. I’ve had several people interested in these small cases so hopefully this will help those of you with your own projects. I haven’t gotten around to making any button layout templates since I figured most people would prefer making their own, this is the main reason I left the “top panel” blank.
Hey Darkside. Do you know if there is enough clearance inside to put Happ parts or do you think they would be running into the bottom?
It’ll bottom out with Happ stuff but if you increased the overall height by about 1/2 an inch then Happ parts should fit in there fine.
I’m not sure I’m happy with the artwork and the plexi but here is one of my Namco’s.
whoa, nice robbie.
I was wondering which games is what type of sticks. I heard that VF 4 uses a square gate, but what about the others?
As far as I know they all have square gates except for the Chaos stick by sammy which I’ve heard uses an Octagonal gate.
They all have square gates, the best to use is the Hori Arcade pro because you can just put a GT-Y gate in there pretty easy. I did that to ours.
Hori SC modification help
- for the buttons, you’ll need to open up the holes on the PCB to fit Sanwa “clip in” type buttons in there. If you use screw type they need to be short enought to fit in the case. Clip in are better because they also hold the PCB keeping all of the buttons in and making whole thing more rigid.
It’s also possible to re-route the leads so that the button config is better. I swaped start/select and moved the buttons around on my stick so that they are more friendly for SF and works well for Dreamcast adaptors.
- mounting the joystick. The case is tall enough to hold the un modded JLF joysticks. This makes it easy as there’s no “too long of a shaft” to deal with, unlike the Namco stick. There are three ways to mount the joystick to this case.
A) Cut out some of the reinforcements in the stick so that the JLF can sit in there flush. Then drill two holes through the top for a 2 bolt method.
B) Catch22 showed in his inital mod of the Namco how he used the original 4 screws and put them through the body of the joystick. This required 4 holes to be drilled in the gate and 4 of the holes in the joystick body to be opened up so that the 4 prongs coming off the joystick case to fit in there. It’s a tight fit but it’ll come.
C) I believe that it’s spiffyshoes that first did the Catch22 mod but with shorter screws to mount off the body only and not screwing through the body, pcb, and gate.
I recently did a Hori mod using method C but I simply cut the original 4 screws so that I didn’t have to make any other adjustments to the gate. It’s important to me to be able to change the gate quickly. This is why spiffyshoes’s method is better than even Catch22’s method and prettier than my 2 bolt method.
Spiffy, I like your Namco mod, much better than the plain old grey.
Armad, any pics of this new stick you just modded. I guess I’ll have to ask Himura if he has the clip in Sanwa buttons, cuz he was going to sell me the screw in ones.
Can I still just take out that pcb since I can’t find out why it doesn’t work, and just put the dual shock pcb in there? Or will the buttons be all loose? BTW, you rock man!!! Can’t wait to see a pic of the mod, outside and inside if you will.