My latest updated stick
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90955
I know people have used the Namco stick’s shaft in a Sanwa JLF, but has anyone tried putting a Sanwa shaft into a Hori joystick body? If so, how did it work out?
I know that the Sanwa joystick is loose. Im used to p360’s they are stiff. is it possible to swap the spring in the JLF joystick? and if so what spring do i need? any help is very much appreciated.
Im gonna wire my stick up today and i was wonderin if this is correct and if using that 5 pin plug adapter if those numbers on the plug are the same as the above
thanks
Sanwa buttons fit perfectly.
the stock stick is great IMO, so i don’t think there’s any need to mod it. if you do, take a look at ASM’s guide.
http://www.arcadestickmonk.com/asm-namco-sanwa-mod.html
i don’t like using the Hori actuator though. i rather like to cut the Sanwa actuator instead.
just take out the spring and take it with you to a hardware store so you can compare the size and stuff like home depot. This was mentioned on page 14 of this thread.
Tiny Update
Ok I’m going to put Sanwa buttons in my Namco and get a new ball top for my stock namco stick, here my questions,
I really would like to keep this solder free, I can solder, but I might be wanting to use these parts elsewhere later, and it’s much easier/clean with QD’s, but someone said I can’t use QD’s with Sanwa buttons? Is that right? What are other options? I will solder if I NEED to.
Also, someone said I should just throw in another PCB instead of just swaping out the buttons with the stock Namco PCB, why?
You can use QD’s on Sanwa parts, but you might have to bend the prongs because the bottom might not fit with the added QD. It’s not that much of a hassle to clean up solder if you have a solder sucker and/or desoldering braid.
As far as the PCB goes unless you’re planning to use the stick on multiple consoles using converters I’m sure the stock PCB is fine.
Use QD’s of the .110" type from a car audio supply store or even Advanced Auto, Pep Boys, etc…
If your intent on not drilling the pcb (to get Sanwa’s to fit) and soldering, I’d velcro the Namco pcb to the bottom panel and install wires and QD’s in the original holes.
Allright got a bunch of different questions so here goes.
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Is a button hole for a standard 30 mm sanwa pushbutton the same size as a happs pushbutton? I just have a 1 1/8 inch drill bit that I use for the happs buttons and I need to know if I need to get a new one for sanwas.
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Are the screw in type buttons the only option if using MDF for a box? If not how would you mount a metal plate to install the snap in buttons?
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Is a sanwa flash joystick the equivalent of a perfect 360 in American parts? If so does it require the same 5 volts for power?
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What is the difference in feel of the four and eight way gates? Are they similar to the differences between a happs competition and ultimate?
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What are some good sites that sell sanwa parts besides himuragames?
Thanks for any help in advance. :karate:
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Nope, Sanwa buttons are a litle bigger. Either search online for the correct drill bit or widen the holes with sandpaper or something.
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For snap-ins in a wodden box, you’ll have to either route the bottom OR route out the top and mount a metal plate.
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Yeah, and yes, it requires 5V.
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One feels like a square and one feels like an octagon. Not sure as I’m lucky to play on P360s at my local arcade and at home.
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Rod from himuragames is the only Sanwa supplier you’ll need. Awesome guy and can’t go wrong with free snacks.
I think that I’ll just get a 1 and 3/16 inch bit for the sanwas. I’m used to the screw-ins from happs so that would be simpler especially since I like to use MDF. If I don’t like the square gate then I’ll just buy an octagon one. Looks like I’m getting my stuff from himuragames. Free is always in my budget.
Preciate the info DarkChylde. :tup:
What size quick disconnects would be best for Sanwa push buttons, 0.110 or 0.187?
Check 6 posts up.
Finally going to get around to modding my own stick, as I’ve got some time to kill now. DC AC Stick->PS2. For the Sanwa buttons… should I even bother with crimps, or solder them directly. I see a copule of images where the ground is just a stripped wire run through each of the buttons and then grounded somewhere. Looks ghetto, but hey… if it works…
I wrote this a little while back, forgot to throw it up. Hope it helps.
In reponse to the flood of PMs I’ve gotten and do to the fact I can’t answer them all over again with the same information. Here is my thread on customizing your stock agetec Dc stick. I will cover a lot of ground here, if you have any questions for clarification, let me know. I can get pictures up later if you need, but school is really kicking in already.
Okay, the first thing you’re going to need to do is actually get a stick. If your modding it, just check around ebay and find one that has a good condition plastic shell and metal overlay. It can be broken as fuck, just as long as you have the case in tact without cracks, you’re good to go.
Now onto the replacement parts
1 Sanwa JLW Ball top stick
6 Sanwa 30 mm buttons, screw type
1 Sanwa Octagonal plate
1 Five-pin cable
All of these parts can be ordered through www.Himuragames.com, The owner, Rod is an exceptionally nice businessman and also a fan of the schene, great service and decent prices, all good all around.
Next up are tools. All this job really requires is…
metal file (for opening up the button holes)
sandpaper of a decent grit (like 400, this is for sanding down the inside where you will mount the new stick)
Ps dualshock or pcb of your choice (to replace the stock DC one)
Soldering iron and some wires/solder ect
Torx screwdriver bit, I think a T-20 works.
Possibly a multimeter to test connections (it came in handy) and maybe a varibit to make opening up the button holes a hell of a lot easier.
Alright, not so bad, if you need a soldering iron get one they’re at most 8 bucks for this type of work. If you need a diagram of your pbc, ask around online or use a meter to check your traces ect. I won’t go over in detail how to solder, just remember don’t be liberal. There are faqs online and you can ask around here in the other threads for pcb hacking.
Okay, assuming you hacked a pbc to have something to hook up your stick and buttons to, use a screwdriver to open the stick up from the bottom. UNhook all the connections that go to the Dreamcast PCB via those little ribbon cables. Next use your torx to take off the top metal plate. After you have down this, lift the plate out of it’s resting nook and look under, notice the buttons and how they’re clipped in? You need to unclip them and snip the wires to get them out of the case. After you have removed all the buttons, unscrew the pcb and lay it to the side then go for the stick. There will be a metal shaft with a little “e” ring facing you, use a pair of needlenose or a screwdriver to pry it off., you must push down on the white spring cap that is on the otherside to make sure it comes off easier and to avoid having the ring fly off and hurt you or get lost. Be careful. After that you should see that you can unscrew the ball top via putting a screwdriver in the slot and keeping it firm while you unscrew the ball.
With the stock stick removed we begin our first alteration on the case, specifically the plastic housing that consists of strips and circular tabs. Carefully using big plyers break off the tabs and strips of plastic. I found gripping on tight and carefully bending did the trick. After all of the above is removed, use sandpaper to sand any rocky plastic flat, you need to have have this area perfectly flat in order to mount the stick corectly. The black housing that comes with the stick with all the holes will be what we need to mount in order for the stick to hold. I will give you the 4 hole version. It is the strongest and most secure way to mount the stick without any external bolts. Okay look at the 4 outmost holes in the corners of the plastic mounting plate, that’s where the screws will end up. I used 8/32 by 5/8 or 1/2 (can’t recall) screws (after pre drilling holes obviously) and attched nuts and washers on top (so that they are upside down with the nuts and washers inside the recessed plastic area which is located under the metal overlay.) This is super strong and the metal plate covers it. After getting your plate on, it’s a pretty straight forward assmelby of the stick that’s left. Don’t forget to put the dustcover on!
Now, it’s time to make room for the buttons. If you ordered screw type 30 mm Sanwas then you’ll need to go the adventerous route and use your needle nose plyers to “snip” a chunk of plastic from each of the 6 plastic circles that are about a 1/2 inch tall. After that, use the same plyer method mentioned in the above paragraph to rip them off the shell and sand them flat, also like above. That’s part one, now comes the real work. Using a drill equiped with a vari-bit or a large circular file to open each of the holes on the metal overlay until a Sanwa button fits perfectly inside (don’t worry you have a fair amount of slack as far as the button covering “mistakes”, but try to stay snug if possible). After checking to make sure each button fits inside, go ahead and screw them down easily, given that the plastic rings were sanded flat. After that you should be set.
You can hot glue your pbc to the side of thye case, be creative, as long as it fits it’s fine. There is also a great thread on how to multi-wire pcbs for a single stick that Shinace has up, check that out.
Props to Cigarbob and Dreadedfist as well as all others that helped with general ideas.
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I have a bit of a problem here with my old, yellow buttoned Namco Stick and wanted some advice if it you could. Technically this isn’t a post about mods but repairs although it could contain mods. I’ve got two buttons that don’t work so I opened up my Stick but couldn’t asssertain whether the buttons conections to the main circuit board were loose or if the buttons them selves were broken? What should I be looking for to qualify one of the problems and how would I fix them. I know if the buttons were broken I’d have to get some sanwa ones and get them put in (I don’t have the tools to do it myself) but if the connection from the main circuit board were loose how would I fix that?
Thanks for the advice people :china: