beatsofdevil: You need the converted Battery & MS combo. IIRC, you need a MS of at least 256MB.
BEWD: Yes, just by installing the US firmware (or any CF, which counts as the official FW it’s based on), you can change the language of your PSP to english. In fact, I think that Japanese FW come with english option, and CF allow you to change the order of accept/cancel buttons between X and O. Also, IIRC, Japanese PSP screens are better than US ones in the brightness aspect
DaDesiCanadian: There’s no confirmed date for a US release of CC. The latest CF is 3.52 M33-4 for Classic PSPs and 3.60 M33 for Slim.
Actually, different firmwares do offer different stuff depending on region. Like PlayStation Spot, which lets you download demos from kiosks in Japan, was only available on Japan region firmwares… so that’s another difference in PSPs between regions. And I do think the PSP is automatically directed to the website intended for the region it belongs to (aka a UK PSP will get the update from the UK PlayStation site). If you want a US firmware, you should go to the US PlayStation site, download the update from your PC, load it on a memory stick and update your PSP that way.
And all PSPs have a language option menu… I own a Japan PSP, and the XMB is completely English (although the UMD games follow their own rules for language options, if you didn’t know that already).
EDIT: Already answered. Oh well
That’s hearsay… matter of fact, earlier this year I replaced my Japanese screen (it was a JP launch system) with a US one, and there’s no difference in quality. The ‘Japan/launch PSP screens are better’ thing was an unsubstantiated rumor. Same as the rumor about the PSP screens at E3/TGS 2004 being better than retail systems. I was at TGS that year and they looked no different or less blurry.
What isn’t confirmed is if the screen on the Slim is improved over the old system in any way.
beatsofdevil: Yes, but the process to convert the battery and the MS requires it to be done on a modded PSP (1.50 or CF), as there is a couple of homebrew programs that must be executed on your PSP to create them.
Hmm, downloaded the newest firmware, but it has an extra folder other than the EBOOT called “seplugins”, and “popsloader” which says “prx files go here”. WTF? Do I need to worry about those, or just run the EBOOT? I’m on 3.30 oe-a I think.
Don’t worry about those; the seplugins folder is rarely used by now, and the popsloader is for quirky persons who want to use previous versions of the PSX emulator. So just go ahead and update to 3.52 M33, and after that, just upgrade to version 4 directly.
beatsofdevil: The main feature that I see from it is the TVOut and the better buttons. I tried modding my d-pad, but it’s nowhere near th goodness of a fixed d-pad, like the ones found in newer Classic models.
It’s all subjective… some people never had a problem using the D-pad at all. The modded D-pad is just an option if inputs aren’t registering for you.
But if you are exploring your options in modding your pad, the stick-on D-pad toppers aren’t really the answer… they can’t fix the real problem (the bottom of the old D-pad was oddly-shaped and wasn’t touching the contacts when you press in the diagonal space), and PSPs with toppers have problems fitting in protective cases.
Thanks! I understand it except for when I was talking about the SLIMPSP that I would need another classicPSP.
with pandora for a classic, I wouldn’t need another classicPSP would I? or I could use the battery/ms from the one I bought to mod it like that.
I’ll have to try and find it, but there’s was something somewhere that told you what to look for on a PSP box b4 you buy it to see if it’s moddable a certain way. Basically, I don’t want to have to mod it with lumines.
I tried a different mod, there are no D-pad toppers available where I live, so I used a tutorial to make something out of thin plastic that goes between the d-pad and the rubber that registers the button pressing in the PCB. It felt better, but it was in no way optimal, much less when I could sense how different it was from what was used by now after a I was able to play in a Ceramic White PSP.
beatsofdevil: You still need a modded classic PSP to run the homebrew that it’s used to transform the battery and the MS, and the battery needs to be a big one, not the small that comes with the slim. And what you want to look for is a lone letter that is besides the bar code on the box of the PSP. That letter determines the version that the PSP has. I know that up to P, it was 2.83, so 3.03 should be S or T. That, of course, assuming that the PSP that is inside the box is the one that was bunded with it originally.
Yeah I heard the d-pad is better in the color models (never bought one, the colors weren’t for me). Like I said, it’s all subjective. The pad mod results seem to be unanimously positive though, here’s a thread on another forum for an example: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91940
Forget what I said above, it seems that I was checking for PAL boxes. Letters A to M are what are you looking for, as M is 3.03 and N is 3.10 in this side of the world.
No I don’t think so. There are some viruses for the PSP but they involve downloading something of your own consent. Just browsing normally should be safe.
