No go with a Cthulhu
No go with a Cthulhu, These PCB’s were designed specifically for Hori VLX (big boy) and all madcatz fightsticks minus the WWE brawl stick modding them for anything else is truly a waste of time & money when there is a Cthulhu that is cheaper and easier
What about the chimp?
I was going to say Chimp its easier but does not offer ps2 and older consoles
Is it possible to disable the turbo buttons/guide button lighting up when you press stuff? I don’t want to be accused of using turbo in tournaments or anything.
Also, would I be able to output the USB to RJ45 too, so I only have one cable out? Maybe I could splice the USB cables into the cable that goes from the te kitty > neutrik connector? (Thinking of trying to mount a neutrik connector, or some other RJ45 inside the cable store if possible and keeping the back button as a back button)
The turbo panel leds, yes. you need to desolder some diodes on the board Official ‘Kitty’ class boards thread
The guide circle lightup is software driven iirc. I can’t remember if anyones asked if it could light up with the same functionality as it has on 360. I don’t think theres a firmware floating around to disable the directional lightup though
It would probably be easier to just slice the common ground board trace to the red led’s you could always add a tiny bit of solder to connect the trace again, for the green leds I’m not sure but there should be no issues with that in tournaments
Whichever way you slice it, if I leave the lights on, or cut traces to disable LEDs, it looks like something fishy. Can this not be disabled in a future firmware update?
It’s done in hardware.
I feel like heating the pad and removing the diode was crazy easy, and infinitely less risky than digging around trying to sever a trace, but to each their own.
The diodes are crazy tall and thin. Just use a pair of needle nose pliers and they pop right off. Just leave the D9 one alone.
either way would work but you know how people are funny about soldering
After almost a year of coveting a TE Kitty, I was finally able to purchase one today. Can’t wait for it to get here so I can finally play some of these older fighting games I’ve been sitting on (Capcom vs SNK 2 EO!).
Toodles I’m having the same problem Air is having. I’m using a VS stick and Kitty, and the RT isn’t working at all. I found a slightly temporary fix by running the signal from CHN2 to the Kitty, and using the Kitty wire to run the Xbox PCB signal to the Kitty, but it doesn’t reliably activate RT. Any thoughts?
Well, I think it would be just as easy for me to go with an MC Cthulu + Imp V2 setup. I’ve been going round and round in circles, but this is the hardware I need to be able to have my stick work with 360/PS3 and other consoles right?
Regarding the RJ45 mounting spot on the imp v2, is that so I can output everything to RJ45? It would be nice to get rid of the usb cable altogether and just make up RJ45 - USB and other console cables. Is this possible?
mines just the regular kitty te, and my RT is a no on ps3 only. i’m wondering if i just need to update the firmware. anyone know how to check and see what firmware version you have? just recent got my te, so i’m assuming it’s uptodate but if all else i’d like to rule it out as a possible reason my stuff isn’t working. i’m post#1880
edit - okay after messing around some more on my ps3, i found out that’s it’s not because it’s misfiring it’s because it’s firing too much. when i was in the chat window on ps3, i had went to change into caps mode and the ps3 freaked out on me. ie: RT went into rapid fire mode. the chat window would switch from small/caps off/on for a period of time before settling. this happen every time i hit RT. also my turbo button registers as my back/select button. dunno if this helps diagnose things or not but i figure the more info the better.
I just installed the Kitty onto my V.S. with the V.S. harness and everything;however, my start select buttons are not functional. Everything else works but just those two. Any ideas?
EDIT: nvm. I read some posts and found that someone else ran to the same issue. I checked the CN2 cable and realized one of the V.S. harness wires (5 wires), and the third one kept punching out so I just pulled that individual wire out and placed it back in with my fingers and everything worked.
You know, I didn’t actually test it that extensively. When I was running it in SF, the RT wasn’t firing at all. It could be so fast the game doesn’t even recognize it.
Pro tip to people having this problem if they want a temporary fix:
Wire the CN2 strip up like you would with a normal Kitty mod but wire your LB and RB to your RB and RT spots. Marvel runs Type Gamma to cover that and Controller Type-C in SF4 will cover that setup. Most other games will require you to jimmy a control setting anyway with a stick setup, so just stay patient until you get a proper replacement for your wiring.
If I wanted a shorter USB cable (so that it will actually fit in the cable compartment), could I cut the cable shorter during installation? There’s a little plastic thing on the cable after it leaves the controller, could I cut it just past that and be okay?
Yes, you’d be absolutely fine, it’s actually what I normally do for installs. My installs remove one length of the compartment from the usb cable, and it helps a lot for getting the cable in and out.
I do exactly the same if I need to separate the USB cable from the motherboard for whatever reason. Makes it so much easier to fit in the cable compartment, which in turn means there’s less chance of cable damage.