So I just installed the TE Kitty…Well I havent mounted it and closed it back up but when I was testing it seems like the Fierce Punch button wont light up the LED but it activates in the menu on my computer. And when its in the native 360 mode it still works the turbo lights up but blinks differently at the same speed setting. What did I do wrong?
Edit:
So I plugged it into my 360 and everything works. But yeah the FP LED location on the guide area wont light up and has a slow blink of on and off with turbos. Any help?
Sounds like the resistor or diode for the ‘light on press’ part is having problems, possibly popped off the bottom of the board. If you take a good macro picture or even a scan of the bottom of the Kitty board, it should be easy to spot.
Yeah, will it work for both though or would I have to do some extra stuff. I want to dual mod it so I don’t need to buy a second stick.
I only have the 360 one cause that’s what I play on most of the time. If you could install it for me while there that would be great and I could cover the cost of the board and spot you some money for your time.
Yeah there is a piece missing from the back of the board and I did hear something rattling around in the bag it was in after I took it out. Heres a picture
Yup, that’d be it. See the label ‘L3P’? Short for LED - 3rd punch. Aka fierce, at least for standard layout sticks.
You’re free to try and reattach the small diode that fell off, and if you lost it, I can send another. Or, you can send the board back and I can fix, or get it fixed at Evo if you’re going. Specifically, the diode should be at the spot labelled D3. Diodes have an orientation; while it may be hard to see, they have a bar across one end. That end should be on the end closest to the L3P print.
Well I dont have the diode not in the bag were I thought I saw it, but I really have no idea in my right brain on how to solder at all. Nor have I ever done it. If I send it to you how long do you think my stick would be down? Difficulty wise how hard do you think the repair on it would be?
The difficulty is entirely subjective. For someone who is familiar with a soldering iron, not hard at all except for the fact that the part is very small; I use tweezers to hold them in place for the soldering. For someone not used to soldering, I could see it being frustrating at the least.
It wouldn’t take more than a day turnaround for me to fix it and send it back out. Im just worried that with me heading to Evo, I wouldn’t be able to work on it at all between the 27th and the 2nd. If it arrived before or after those dates, one day to fix and send it back out.
Another option that isn’t the best but is still an option would be to disable the light on press for the rest of the buttons as well; just pop off D1, D2, D4, D5, D6, D7, and D8 (LEAVE D9 ALONE! It’s the one that makes Turbo activate Select as well.)
Well could I temporarily bridge the connections to the USB cable to make the stick work while the TE Kitty is out? or suggest leaving it all disabled while its getting repaired? Like I know someone who might be able to fix it but not sure if they have worked on something that small. I could also just wait tell after EVO for the repair also. Would allow me some time to get the RJ45 stuff figured out so its all done when it gets back to me.
If I send it back you just want me to put it back in the static free bag and send it to you?
You can bridge the USB wires back together if you like for use while the Kitty is gone, sure; totally up to you.
Whether to have a friend give a shot or just send it to me, again, up to you. If the friend gets the job done, hey, everyone’s happy, you’re not without a stick for long at all, and I dont lose money on the postage.
So, I tell you what. Have your friend give it a shot (and let me know if you need me to send out a replacement diode or three). If he gets it, hooray. If not, then we’ll have you send it back and I’ll do it. Usually, if someone solders to my boards, I usually keep a strict “You break it, you keep both pieces” policy, but I’ll cover you on this one if he muffs it up. Sound fair?
I have been following the TE-S kitty guide and I stumbled upon the part where I am supposed to connect the ribbon cable back to the JLF. I do not have any other 5-ribbon cable available for use and I traced back my steps and I think I did everything correct. I notice there’s a spare spot on TE Kitty for CN3. Am I supposed to connect a 5-ribbon cable into that spot and then onto the JLF?
Also in step 7, it says the cable is labelled as V, but when I was doing it, I notice the middle cable was labelled as H for me. Later on in the guide, the “H” cable was never mentioned again. Was step 7 a typo where I am suppose to pull (which was the middle cable in my situation) as opposed to V (as in the guide).
The cable that connects the JLF to the Kitty isn’t usually a ribbon cable; its the same five pin, black wire piece that the JLF was originally connected with. You should be connecting that cable between the Kitty and the JLF, but I have to admit, I can find where I said to connect to the JLF in step 13, but I can’t see where I described plugging it into the Kitty. That’s a mistake I hope to correct shortly. Look at the picture of the Kitty in between steps 9A and 9B. In the upper left corner, there are two headers different than the rest; those deal with the joystick. Find the black wire harness that was originally connected to the JLF and TE board, and plug the end that was originally in the TE board into the connector on the edge of the board. The one on the ‘inside’ will go to the main TE board when I answer question #2.
Not exactly; you should be connecting the 5 pin ribbon cable that came with the TE Kitty (not the TES harness set) to the CN3 spot on one end, and the other end of the ribbon to the inside matching connector of the Kitty. That’s described in step 9B and 9C.
Good catch, that’s a typo. The ribbon you’ll be removing is the larger one in the middle, which should be the H ribbon.
Toodles…wow…after a successful 2-day MCC/rj-45 mod of my first TE stick, THE KITTY WAS LIKE A WALK IN THE PARK. 25 minutes from start to finish INCLUDING THE RJ-45 MOD!! Snaps into place flawlessly with all the screws that the arcade stick originally came with. All I had to supply was 1 6" ethernet cable and 1 rj-45 receptacle. BRILLIANT!
The turbo as back button and led stuff works perfectly and means that I don’t have to drill any extra holes into my stick which is such a time/energy saver.
I have one more question. When I finished assembling my Kitty, I put it to the test but ran into a problem. I notice there was problem with my LT and RB buttons where both buttons acted the same. When I pressed either button, both LT and RB were triggered at the same time with LT having priority over RB triggering and masking RB. Has anyone ran into a same and similar situation and fixed or know the fix to the problem. I tried reassembling and got no progress.
I also notice my Home guide PCB was a bit scratched up during the flipping of the ribbon cable housing. Maybe this could cause the problem.
Ok Toodles my friend has he would solder that diode to my Kitty no problem :D. So I am gonna end up needing that diode.
Btw I made the PS2 cable for the RJ-45 jack I put in my TE. Works great but just wondering. The lights on the guide panel are pretty dim is that normal? That really doesn’t bug me them being dim for PS2 or DC or something like that sense I wont be using my stick on those to often, was just curious.
Home pcb being scratched wouldn’t cause that. Your description of what’s happening is lacking though; what do the turbo LEDs do when you press one of the two buttons? What does the properties for the game controller show it doing on the PC, in both Kitty mode and in forced Xbox360 mode?
LEDs will be dimmer when connected to a PS2 or PSX; that’s normal.
If you got the Kitty from me directly, send me a PM with your zipcode and paypal email address so I can fidn your address. If you didn’t, or if you’re feeling nice about it, send a 10 cent paypal marked ‘for goods’ to marcus@marcuspost.com and I’ll just print a shipping label off of it and send a few diodes out to you.
i may need to pay someone for a rj45 to usb cable…it seems all the ones i make…don’t work. for all other cables like ps2 and what not work from rj45 but when i make the usb to rj45, it just doesnt get recognized…sighs. anyone have or can make me one please?
Heres a picture
Ill let you know if he will do it or not and if I need the diodes. Thanks a bunch Toodles!