Do Kitty’s work on PS2 games on BC PS3’s? Also any word on a HORI V3-SA version?
Yes. It will work.
VX-SA version? Not heard of. I’m not thinking it’s likely, simply because the way the PCB is designed. Doesn’t have a harness for the buttons to connect to like TE.
http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/7481/vxsapcb.jpg
Ironically, V3-SA uses harnesses for the buttons on PCB.
Meant V3-SA
Oops. You even said V3-SA. I was thinking VX-SA because it is 360, and Kitty is designed for use with 360 PCB. Sorry. Do not know.
There’s no way I’d be able to do that for you, but a number of techs are capable of doing it for you. Check the ‘need a modder in your area’ thread or in the trading outlet, and ask. It’d also be better for both of you if you just sent the stick and had them do the full install, since they’d be more experienced in troubleshooting any problems.
Toodles,
Just got your email that the VLX Kitty has shipped…Thanks, can’t wait to install it. Woo Hoo…
I no longer see a note about TE-S Kittys being available “soon”, does this mean they’re available now?
I have the backwards TE-S harness, so read this:
As long as you’re cool doing that little housing flip around, the ones I have will do you just fine. If you’d rather wait for the fixed harnesses, you’re welcome to but I dont have an ETA on when they’ll be available. The TE-S harness is $5, and you’re free to order one whenever you like.
I rearranged the buttons in my TE-S, so I actually want to change the wiring anyway so the turbo lights are correct, so this is actually totally fine. I’ll order one in about 15 minutes.
I’ve run into a problem with my TE Kitty. The short version: I can’t get it into Xbox360 mode. Here’s the long version.
When I plug the stick into my computer, it shows up properly in the Game Controllers as “Kitty TE Edition.” It works fine; all the LEDs light up when I move the stick or press the buttons, it functions normally in the games I’ve played, the stick functions on all three slider positions, the lock switch locks out Turbo and Guide. (The stick also works perfectly fine when plugged into my PS3.)
However, if I try to force the stick into Xbox 360 mode (by putting the slider on RS and holding Turbo or Back), I get the error “USB Device Not Recognized.” Nothing shows up under Game Controllers. When I plug in the stick, all four quadrants of the Guide LEDs will light up briefly and then go dark. If I press the Guide button while its plugged in, the same thing happens; all four sections light up briefly and then go dark. If I press any of the face buttons, their turbo LEDs will light up correctly. Nothing lights up if I move the stick.
Plugging the stick into an Xbox 360 gets the exact same result, with one weird addition. If I plug it in while the console is off, the player 1 quadrant will light up on the Guide LEDs. If I press any of the buttons, their corresponding turbo LEDs will light up as well. (If it matters, this is on an Xbox 360 Slim model.)
This is on a regular TE, not a TE-S. The stick is one of the old red & black Round 1 sticks.
Any ideas on what might be wrong, or what else I should check or try?
It’s almost certainly the connection of Xbox360 USB wires between the TE main board and the screw terminals on the Kitty. Most likely, they could be screwed down in the wrong holes, not screw down all of the way, or something similar.
I don’t know if that was supposed to be a “problem,” but when I plug my TE (R1) into the Xbox (when it’s off) with the Kitty installed, my first quadrant also lights up too.
But once I turn on the Xbox manually, the quadrant lights go back to normal.
That’s normal. The P1 led is the Kitty saying it detected a USB system, but it hasnt finished the handshaking yet (because the Xbox is off). The turbo LEDs will always light up if there is power.
I’m no expert, but it’s important to note that the USB ports on the 360 are always ‘live’. Even though the system is off, there’s still a 5 volt current being shot through them so you can charge devices. That may be what you’re seeing; since the Kitty is getting power, it’s lighting up. I wouldn’t sweat it.
They’re definitely in the correct order, going red/white/green/black from the bottom-most terminal. To make sure they’re in there good, I took all four wires out, recut the USB cable, stripped 'em all down again fresh, and jammed those suckers in as snugly as I could into each terminal. No dice. Still showing the same behavior as before.
Anything else I should try?
Unless there’s another connection that could be the issue, I’m wondering now if maybe one of the boards is faulty. If that’s the case, though, I haven’t got a clue how I test that.
The best thing to do would be to test the main TE board by itself; unplug all of the ribbon cables from the main TE board, unscrew all of the wires from the screw terminals, twist and electrical tape each of the four USB wires to the same colors, and plug it in. If it doesn’t show up on the PC, you know the board is dead. If it does, you know there is a problem in the connection between the main TE board and the outgoing USB cable, and that can be troubleshot and fixed.
If it is a dead TE board, there’s not much that can be done except to find a cheap 360 SE stick and pull out the board from it has a replacement.
Derp, right. Wow, I feel dumb. Was overthinking it.
So yeah, I spliced the USB wire back together, got all the ribbon cables back in the right places and… USB Device Not Recognized. Craaaaap.
Thanks for all the help. Looks like in the market for a new PCB.
TOODLES, will the TEkitty work in the VX-SA?
I had posted earlier about having my VLX randomly reset/disconnect while playing. I discovered that a static discharge will force the kitty to reset or disconnect temporarily while using it. I noticed this one time after returning to my seat. I shocked myself as sat down to play the stick reset itself. I was able to consistently reproduce this so if you have a similar situation and are wondering what’s going on, you now know. This will also happen if you have a static discharge that isn’t strong enough to shock you.
I did the install, It went very smoothly. Took about an hour and a half, but I was working on getting the lights lined up properly for more than half of that time. VERY easy to do. I was completely OK with doing a harder mod, I just didn’t want to, so this was great.
I had only ONE snag, which was I ripped one pin out of the “5” harness when I was closing up, which caused me to curse, then steal a pin from another cable that I had laying on my desk, and make a quick patch. Everything works great, AND my lights are now correct, which makes me super happy.