Thanks for the quick reply toodles, I actually just remembered something. When I tried that dual mod it was actually perfectly fine on the PS3 when I tested everything. So I guess my only option here is to actually get another TE huh.
As a side note, do you sell the wire harnesses for the Kitty separately? As mentioned before, mine were botched when I first got them.
Hi, I had a TE kitty installed on my stick last EVO. It worked fine back then, but I hadn’t used it on an xbox again until yesterday. Yesterday I plugged it into an xbox and everything worked fine except for down inputs. 1, 2, and 3 on the stick don’t register at all. Everything works fine on ps3 though. I have no idea how to approach this. What do I need to check and how do I do so?
Is there any word on when these will be back in stock?
If it worked fine on a PS3, there’s only one spot that could be bad that could cause PS3 to work and Xbox360 to not, and that’s really really rare, but could happen if the wires in the XBOX set of terminals were done way wrong (speaking of the 4066 chip getting cooked). Testing without it in a stick is tricky but doable, but I do think your best course of action is to throw it into a stick because it’s probably just fine.
As for replacement ribbons for the Kitty (the ones that come with the TE Kitty), I hadnt planned on selling them seperately, but I can arrange something for the few who need it. However, Im plum out of them, which is why the TE Kitty is out of stock. Got boards, but not ribbons. Once their back in stock, send me a PM and we’ll work it out.
First off, plug it into a PC forcing Xbox360 mode ( slider on RS, hold Turbo when plugging in). Once it comes up on the PC in the game controller’s applet, move slider to DP and check the stick movements in the properties page (should show MadCatz Tournament Edition or similar). If down stick doesn’t work, post up when you’re ready to open the stick and test it with a multimeter; either there is a problem in the ribbon cable connecting the Kitty to the main TE board, or a problem on the main TE board.
Not firm eta, expecting just over a month.
I think there’s a short in my cord and I want to buy a RJ45 to USB cord to replace it. It’s a 360 stick (obviously modded with a Kitty). It has a Neutrik RJ45 Jack. If I buy a RJ45 to USB cord and plug it into the neutrik, will that work for both PS3 and 360? Do you sell any pre-made, or should I buy this? The PS2 cord I have has this sweet protective case around the RJ45 side, you don’t sell those do you? Thanks Toodles.
Now that I think about it, I may have never actually tried my stick on an Xbox. I think I tested it on a laptop at EVO and assumed the stick would be in Xbox mode or something and was therefore a good test. Ok, I connected my stick to my laptop and forced Xbox mode. It connected as ‘‘Arcade Stick (Super SFIV Fightstick TE S).’’ Same results, 1, 2, and 3 don’t register, but everything else is fine. df registers as 6, db as 4, and 7, 8, 9 are fine. Give me some instructions and I’ll come back with some results.
Something went wrong with my Kitty mod tonight while I was playing. I’ve had it for about, I wanna say 24 months. I have never encountered an issue like this before. Mid match my joystick was stuck in the left position but all the buttons worked.
I unplugged the stick and resumed to plug it back in. The 2 and 3 home Led’s pulsed and all the red LED’s light up when I pressed buttons but nothing happened upon pressing the buttons. I, immediately plugged the TE Round 2 stick in to my PC and failed to load the drivers. I tried holding down the home, as well as turbo, before plugging in the usb cable it still came up with a failure . I have no idea what is wrong or where to start trouble shooting.
I made sure all the wires were were still intact and nothing on the boards appears to be damage. There was no “Unknown USB device” messages when plugging my stick into my PS3. I’m not sure where to proceed. Any and all help and tips are appreciated. Thank you very much.
Ok so its definitely something wrong with the Kitty side. I removed both PCB’s and plugged them in individually. The Madcatz TE PCB drivers load perfectly, but the Kitty is dead in the water. I tested the Kitty on both sides using the OUT going screw terminal and the RJ-45 jack same results with or without the Madcatz TE PCB as a piggy back.
Something tells me that it may be a power issue. Can anyone tell me the best way to troubleshoot if the Kitty is getting enough power. I was going through the usb properties of the Kitty board and it says that the power state is in D3 instead of D0. I’m not sure if this information helps much. Thanks for reading my plight I will try to continue on as best as I can.
Please test it on the PC in normal Kitty mode; Im going to assume that the down directions still dont work and carry on, but if they do work in Kitty mode on the PC/PS3, then ignore the rest of this and let me know.
Open up the top panel of the TE, and unplug the connector from the JLF, so the stick ribbon is connected to the Kitty like normal, and you have access to the connector end that normally goes to the JLF. Plug the stick on a PC in normal Kitty mode and check the properties. Use a bent paper clip or wire, and put one end into each of the outside holes; one of them in ground, and one is down. When you do this, you should see the stick direction go to down. If it does, the microswitch board, the TP-MA, on your JLF is dead and needs replaced, like $13 at focusattack. If it doesn’t show down, remove that ribbon from the Kitty, and use the paperclip to touch the two outside pins of the connector on the Kitty. If that shows down, then the ribbon cable is fubared; easiest solution is to pickup a JLF-TE cable from my site. Let me know how it goes.
Start with updating the firmware by plugging it in with Guide held down. If the bootloader and firmware update dont seem to work, try on another PC first, and if it still fails, open up the stick, remove the original TE board entirely and all ribbons from the Kitty except for the H, R, and V ribbons that go to the LED board and the outgoing USB cable in the OUT section of the board, and try the firmware update again.
Just tested on normal Kitty TE Edition mode and everything works fine on my pc, ps3 and ps2. So I ignore the rest right? I’m assuming this means that the 360 pcb might be the problem.
It means that the Kitty is seeing down properly, but either the TE board isn’t seeing it for some reason. Plug it into a PC in the force 360 mode (Slider on RS, hold Turbo on plugging in, move slider back to DP once it’s going), then take the 5 pin ribbon for the joystick that connects the Kitty to the TE board, unplug it from the Kitty so its still attached to the TE board, and use the paper clip to connect the two outside pins and see if it goes down. If it does, unplug the other end of that same ribbon from the TE board as well, and use the paper clip to short the outside pins of the connector you just unplugged it from. Report up what you find and we’ll go from there.
Does TE kitty work for the SFxT Pro stick? If not, what is best for it
Yes, but it is not a simple install due to the unfortunate design of the Strekken stick.
Yeah the guts look pretty compact. Wondering what’s the best to use for space efficiency. I don’t really want to solder much though.
Drivers fail to load using all these methods and on different PC’s.
Just trying to get it to work on my original xbox. Works fine on ps3 and 360 but when I try to use it on my original xbox it does nothing. I just updated it to the latest firmware and all went smooth. Does it auto detect or do I need to press or hold something? Thanks
Hi Toodles, i am doing a kitty mod for a customer with a VS Stick and i’ve run into some trouble. The Right Trigger (3K) button does not function at all and the Left Bumper (4P) button works, but the LED in the turbo panel does not light up. I see that this problem has come up a few times in the forum and i’ve tried the solutions that you suggested. I removed the Z1 diode and i’ve also removed the R32 and R33 resistors and shorting their contacts in hopes of making a difference but nothing has changed the behavior of the buttons malfunctioning. I’ve plugged the original TE PCB back in and the buttons function as normal. It seems similar to a problem that i ran into with Air0087 whom i directed to come see you directly to get a fix. You sent him a replacement cable and his problem got resolved, however he had a 1.3 Kitty board i believe, with screw downs. This one is definitely the 1.4 with push pins. I have some pictures but i won’t bother posting them if it isnt useful. Are there any tests you would like me to do to help get the light and buttons working properly? Thanks in advance.
kaeru
i am going to be getting a te kitty for my soul caliber V fightstick. on the soul caliber fightstick the buttons are mapped differently will this affect the button mapping on the other consoles?
the button mapping goes
X Y B LB
A LT RT RB
thanks
doesn’t matter
Anyone know about the auto detect for original xbox?