So if I was using budget uila’s and dont care about colors etc is there no way to change how the led’s behave? Like with the pre programming are there some default options?
JhFerry: The Uila Budget when used with the Sparky may be a simple on-off process, but I believe that Nerrage or 32Teeth can explain that. Nerrage mentioned that he is working on a video with the Sparky controller and a number of options to take advantage of it. I’ll send him the Uila Budget and see if he can also cover that for those who are interested.
Jaleel is half way correct.
With the UILA Budget you only have one color. White.
But, that being said, you can use a FA Sparky and the configurator to simply change the intensity of the white when pressed.
Example, using the UILA Budget, connect the 8 (or 6) white wires to a color output (R, G or B) of the FA Sparky. (be sure to remember which one it was)
Connect the black wire to the output row on the FA Sparky according to which button it relates to.
Open up the config and select a color range from the color you connected to. You can assign different intensities this way. C’est tout.
You are pretty limited and may want to simply stick with an on off kinda setup.
http://www.focusattack.com/product_images/y/632/UilaBudget_Front__84157_zoom.jpg
i was wondering how exactly you would install this with the Cthulhu ps3 bored bored new to led and all of this in general any help would be greatly appreciated
Here is a general assembly for the original sparky. the theory is the same
https://sparky.svn.beanstalkapp.com/sparky/trunk/Documentation/SparkyJrAssembly.pdf
Hello all,
I have a video in the works for the use of the Sparky PWM SMD, but, I wrote a guide today in another Thread, and I thought I would share it here. I’d say, if this is too confusing, wait for the video.
Connect all of the red wires from the Uilas to every red wire from all the Uilas, use the 3M ScotchLocks included to do so. You slide wires that you want to connect into the hole, and then pop it down with your fingers to connect the wires. Then connect that to the Red wire labeled “R” from the smaller harness.
Connect all the blues wires from the Uilas to each other, just like the red wires. To the “B” blue wire on the smaller harness. Same with greens.
Then, slide the Signal wires from your button onto their respective button, using the larger harness, e.g.
１Ｐ ２Ｐ ３Ｐ ４Ｐ
１Ｋ ２Ｋ ３Ｋ ４Ｋ
Use the wire that has the quick disconnects attached. Take the wire off of the button, connect it to the male QD, and then connect the female QD to the button. If you accidentally connect the ground wire this way, that’s okay, the button will just be lit up all of the time, so after wiring it, just switch. If you don’t know which is which, just guess. For the ones that always light up, just switch those, and they’ll be right the second time.
Then, for the wires on the harness that don’t have a QD, connect those to the Black wires from the Uila using the ScotchLocks. The White wires will not be used, so you can cut them.
Now, to power the PCB, you will need to cut your USB cable. Don’t cut it directly off of your PCB, cut the cable a few inches away from your PCB. Then, strip the cable to expose four wires on both sides that you’ve cut. Use a ScotchLock to reconnect the green and a separate ScothLock to connect white wires back together. Then, slide the two red wires together with the red wire from the smaller harness, and connect them with a ScotchLock. Do the same with the black wires.
After that, you should have your Sparky PMW SMD all ready to go. If you want to change the colors, you can use an FTDI Breakout and the Sparky Configurator.http://sparky.32teeth.org/downloads.html
Just wondering, is there still a TE-specific full-length tutorial on the way? There are video guides up for more specific pieces of the install process (e.g. how to hook up a single button to the Sparky PWM), but I don’t really feel prepared to start hacking wires apart until I’ve seen the whole process done with the components I plan to use: Uila-S Flashes with the Sparky PWM in a TE-S. I did basic button and artwork replacement on my old TE, and now that I have a new TE-S, this will be my first time trying something with a little bit of electrical engineering work involved, and I really don’t want to screw it up!
For that matter, I’ve seen people do a beautiful job of keeping wires organized so that the inside of their stick mod looks as nice as the outside. My first TE mod was sort of a hack job, and I’d rather not repeat that, but I’ve never really seen a skilled modder go through the process. It seems like with an LED mod, you’re going to have wires coming out your ass by the time you’re all done with it, so it would be really helpful to see the best approach to that, too.
Yes, I will have one coming. I’m just waiting on a new 720p camera so that everything will not be fuzzy, like my older videos. It will be in a TE, but it is not TE or system specific, the logic is the same for any common ground stick that is wired and working via USB.
However, the install will not be as clean as you would like. Cleanliness takes more time and practice than just working. I choose to do quickly and uncleanly so that everyone can understand and do it themselves. If you want clean, honestly, it may be a bit hard with the current kit’s set up, because it’s designed to be easy, not clean. You CAN cut the wires and solder them to undersides of barrier strips and hide wires and do things like that, but it’d probably require cutting the harness up, which I don’t recommend, unless if you really know what you’re doing.
That being said, everything will be solderless, and shouldn’t be too difficult to follow. I only plan on using four tools. Lighter, scissors, Allen Wrench, and a Screwdriver.
Cool, looking forward to seeing that. I wasn’t planning to go too overboard with regard to organization, but I would at least like to have the wires neatly bound together in a way that makes the stick easy to close and keeps any wires from being pinched or crushed. On my round 1 TE, it was actually hard to get the damn thing shut after I’d gone in there and fiddled with it.
I hooked mine up, but right after some buttons were registering as two. For instance my light punch button registers as a light punch and medium kick. Would anyone happen to know what might cause this?
Your quick disconnects are probably not fully insulated and are touching each other. Happened to me too
That seems to be the case. thanks that fixed it
Hi I just got my Sparky PWM SMD boards in from FocusAttack and was trying to change the program with Ardunio, but I keep getting and Error Compiling message. How do I fix that?
You will need to provide a bit more information.
- What version of the sparky code did you grab from the svn?
- What version of the arduino IDE are you using 1.0 or 0.22?
- Are you sure you have all the files?
- What is the error? It should be quite clear at the bottom of the IDE
- I grabbed 2.0(Paradise Arcade) and 3.0.
- I am using Ardunio IDE 1.0.
- I’m pretty sure I have all the files. Downloaded Win32 and 64 Sparky 3.0 config. Went to the Ardunio Files and copied the code for each link in ardunio on its own separate tab.
- 2.0 is giving me this type of error:
In file included from Sparky2_0Paradise.cpp:14:
/SparkyClass.h:7:22: error: WProgram.h: No such file or directory
In file included from Sparky2_0Paradise.cpp:14:
SparkyClass.h:21: error: ‘boolean’ does not name a type
SparkyClass.h:22: error: ‘boolean’ does not name a type
SparkyClass.h:75: error: ‘byte’ does not name a type
Sparky2_0Paradise.cpp: In function ‘void loop()’:
Sparky2_0Paradise:38: error: ‘class SparkyClass’ has no member named 'waiting’
Sparky2_0Paradise:42: error: ‘class SparkyClass’ has no member named 'waiting’
Sparky2_0Paradise:46: error: ‘class SparkyClass’ has no member named 'run’
Sparky2_0Paradise:47: error: ‘class SparkyClass’ has no member named ‘run’
3.0 is working but I’m having a hard time using the program.
Sorry about not putting more info out there.
New qustion for you guru’s. Lets say I had a fightstick that I wanted to have LED control over 14 buttons instead of 8. Could I do it with one sparky jr or maybe two? Go ahead and PM me if you have any good ideas.
is it a 2 player joystick?
either way i think you’re better off with 2, otherwise you would double up on buttons lighting up
So I it is possible. Good. Now I have to decide if I want to go with the easy or the more complicated sollution. Now I have to get another sparky jr.
[S]HELP! just got my Sparky PWM from FocusAttack and the only output i get is K1+K2+K3 flash red then green on boot, then nothing… If a plug it into my FTDI it will reset and do the same again. Is there no program on the sparky? Thanks in advance for any help you can give![/S]
I have finally resolved the issue with the FTDI breakout board. The pc was assigning COM3 as a virtual com port ok, but i was also using usb from the pc to power the stick to check the inputs.
The 2 usb ports had some kind of conflict which was blocking communications to the sparky, I’m using windows7 and the FTDI was connected directly onto the sparky. All is good now though, I was beginning to doubt my wiring… Just thought I’d share this incase anyone experiences similar problems.
Special thanks to 32Teeth & purplearms for the support and for developing such great products!! and to focusattack.com for supplying the install kit. cheers guys![S][/S]
Hey not sure if this is a future plan but on the configurator there’s an effects tab that doesn’t work for me. Is there a presentation mode a la toodles fgwidget or similar?